Hollókő – Bableves Inn (Day 44 of the OKT hike)

Not far from the Hollókő bus turnaround—famous for its Old Village—we find the first stamp of our hike on an information board . The K trail markers begin to climb along Kossuth Street, then cut through the paid parking lot and leave the village—the previous day’s section of the Blue Trail runs through this World Heritage Site. Regardless, it’s worth taking a look around the 67 historic buildings of Ófalu, which were rebuilt in a uniform style following a fire in the early 20th century. On the ribbon-shaped plots—the vineyards and orchards around Hollókő were also cultivated on long, narrow strips of land—several houses stand “clinging” to one another in some places; and these later additions provided homes for younger generations.

After taking in the sights, perhaps stopping by an exhibition hall or two, and having something to eat and drink, we follow the route described above, climbing the K-marked trail up Gomb Hill to Hollókő Castle. The pasture dotted with trees is also a cultural and historical landmark; the KL trail cuts through it and leads straight down to the castle. The romantic ruins are open to visitors; inside, you’ll find exhibitions, and the tower offers a beautiful view of the surrounding area, so we recommend the same as we did for Ófalu: if you haven’t had the chance to visit the castle yet, be sure to check it out.

The ruins of this fortress, which have been restored since the 1990s, offer a romantic sight on the slopes of the Cserhát Mountains, though its history is similar to that of many other Hungarian castles. Built after the Mongol invasion, it was later expanded, fell into Turkish hands as a border fortress, and was eventually destroyed after the Rákóczi War of Independence. Admission is required to visit.

The Blue Trail turns left, and we’ll spend the next few kilometers along the ridge of Szár Hill, through a warm-climate oak forest. This long ridge, which stands out from its surroundings, conceals andesite deep within its depths—a rock that has withstood erosion better than the neighboring sedimentary rocks. Beyond the 435-meter summit of Szár Hill, where the thinning forest gives way to rocky terrain, a beautiful view opens up onto the next section of our route: Behind Alsótold rises Bézma, at the foot of which stands the endpoint of our journey, the Bableves inn.

Before we descend from the ridge, we’ll make a detour to the “Hand of God” (or “God’s Palm”) lookout, which has gained national fame for its unique shape. The owners of the Farkaskútvölgy estate, which lies below us, commissioned architect Benjámin Csíkszentmihályi to design it, and he solved the task with true ingenuity: we can stand and even sit on the palm of the hand lying on the ground, and the fingers pointing toward the sky harmonize with the lookout. Moreover, the entire structure “blends in” with the forest, thanks in part to its materials—made from dead trees in Farkaskútvölgy—and its forms, which evoke organic architecture.

The Blue Trail descends along the fence of Farkaskútvölgy—which serves as both lodging and an event venue—into the Toldi Basin until it reaches the Zsunyi Stream. At this point, the K trail turns right; following the K◼ sign for just a few hundred meters brings you to Felsőtold, where you’ll find a bus stop and a store. The Blue Trail covers the 2.5 kilometers to Alsótold, initially across wide stretches of pastureland and then squeezed between the fences of plowed fields.

We pass the cemetery, then turn right next to a nice snack bar. Alsótold has no “center”; the historic part of the village is the triangle marked by the roads running along the streams: one leads toward Felsőtold, one leads through the Alsó Gorge toward Pásztó, and one—which we’re taking—follows the course of the Zsunyi Stream toward Cserhátszentiván. We pass the village chapel, then the beautiful but empty Mészáros mansion standing next to it, and soon Alsótold itself. We walk one kilometer on asphalt, then turn left onto an old cart track. We ascend through wooded pastures and then through the forest on the Bézma hillside; below us, neatly stacked stones serve as a reminder of the former wagon traffic. Following the stream winding its way through the andesite boulders, we arrive at the historic Bableves Inn, the next—and final— stamp stop on our hike .