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recommended route Alpine Climbing · Ankogel Group

Wolkenlos - slab climbing route in Maltatal in beautiful landscape

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DAV Section Teisendorf

in the crux of the climbing route Wolkenlos
Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Section Teisendorf

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The climbing routes in Langkar above the Kölnbreinsperre are typical easy slab climbs. Some routes are interrupted by a steeper wall section, which is just as grip- and foothold-poor as the flatter areas. Therefore, the climbing difficulties are briefly considerably higher here! After 5 pitches you reach the exit and return on foot in a wide loop to the backpacks at the start.

difficult

Distance 5.6 km

4:00 h

866 m

2,240 m

1,920 m

Now we really realize how much the last days and weeks of everyday stress have taken their toll on us again. This approach in a very lonely part of the Maltatal is wonderful! Shrubs and meadows are lush green, on our left the creek babbles peacefully and as far as the eye can see not a single soul. Between are always beautiful stones. Granite! That's why we are here, but we are still in shutdown mode. We enjoy and decide after a while to start the "Wolkenlos"! Due to the inhomogeneity of the routes in Langkar, nature lovers and connoisseurs will enjoy more than ambitious climbers!

Author’s recommendation

The slabs all look somehow similar, so the start of the climbing route is hard to find. A GPS device or the alpenvereinaktive.com app can be a helpful aid here to find the starting point of the climbs.

Author

Stefan Stadler

Responsible for this content
DAV Section Teisendorf

Difficulty

VII-6a+ difficult

Overall difficulty

difficult

Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

Experience

Landscape

Risk potential

Highest point

Exit Wolkenlos, 2,240 m

Lowest point

Kölnbreinsperre, 1,920 m

Best time of year

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Cardinal direction

Approach

180 m, 1:00 h

Wall height

140 m

Climbing length

260 m, 1:30 h

Descent

320 m, 1:30 h

Belay stations

with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts, trad gear

Protection

with bolts, sporadic bolts

Rope length

1 x 60 m

Number of quickdraws

First ascent

P. und M. Ostermayer 2006

Track types

Asphalt

1.1 km

Dirt road

1.3 km

Path

1.7 km

No marked trail

1.4 km

Via ferrata

106 m

Show elevation profile

Safety information

The last belay station is missing! Those who do not want to climb the last easy pitch unprotected need mobile protection devices. Do not forget that you are at 2200 m in the high alpine terrain with all its associated dangers.

Tips and suggestions

Tourist info Maltatal ; National Park Hohe Tauern ; some climbing topos can be found here ; news from the author on FB

Roadbook

Approach: Start over the dam and on the other side climb over a railing to descend down a staircase and then a ladder. Now walk on an overgrown forest road descending gently downhill (southwards). At a bend begins a narrow path well marked with cairns. Follow it along the stream upwards (in a southern direction) until you finally reach the start over block terrain.

Route: The topo describes the climbing route in detail.

Descent: At the exit keep left and cross over ledges without difficulty onto the meadow (caution when wet). Now return in a wide loop on trail traces and scattered cairns back to the backpack depot. Return on the familiar path to the parking lot at Berghotel Malta.

Rest stop

Tip

Nearby

Top Partner

Waypoint

Start point

End point

Low point

High point

Forecast

Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}

show {x} more

Photo

Video

Parkplatz Kölnbreinsperre
Einstieg Wolkenlos
Ausstieg Wolkenlos
Einstieg Dampfkuchl

Public transport

The regional buses to Kölnbreinsperre unfortunately run very rarely and not at all on weekends. With the bus no. 5130 you can get directly from St. Michael im Lungau to the top, from Spittal take the bus no. 5132 and change in Gmünd.

Directions

At the Gmünd exit we leave the Tauern motorway A10 and follow the signs at the roundabout into the Maltatal. Always going upstream you reach the toll booth and pay a proud 19 euros per car (as of 2017). Now continue upwards in the beautiful high alpine valley to the Kölnbreinsperre.

Parking

Near Berghotel Malta there are several large parking lots. The parking fee is logically included in the toll.

Coordinates

47.078492, 13.343644

DMS

47°04'42.6"N 13°20'37.1"E

UTM

33T 374260 5215217

w3w

///costumed.harsher.rationality

Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

Book recommendation by the author

Climbing guide Maltatal by Gerhard Schar published by Panico Verlag; available with free shipping in the online shop of freytag & berndt

Author’s map recommendations

Alpine Club Map No. 44 Hochalmspitze Ankogel 1:25000 available at freytag & berndt

Recommended maps for this region:

Equipment

Alpine climbing equipment with 60 meter rope, 8 quickdraws, possibly nuts and small friends for the last pitch, etc.

Localization

Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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Difficulty

VII-6a+ difficult

Overall difficulty

difficult

Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

Distance

5.6 km

Duration

4:00 h

Ascent

866 m

Descent

866 m

Highest point

2,240 m

Lowest point

1,920 m

Round trip Scenic Refreshment stops available Geological highlights Wall Slab Abseil Descending on foot

Weather at the starting point

10-day forecast

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Waypoints

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4 Waypoints

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Ascent

Descent

Elevation profile