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Alpine Climbing
· Chiemgau Alps
Kampenwand crossing (IV+) – Ridge route high above the Chiemgau
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Kampenwand crossing overview image - topoPhoto: Stefan Stadler, DAV Section Teisendorf
On the classic ridge climbing route in the Chiemgau Alps, you have magnificent views: on one side lies Lake Chiemsee at your feet and on the other side, views open up to the main Alpine ridge. Since there are not many such exposed crossings in the Bavarian Alps, this route is something very special in the region and inspires for the big ridge climbs, e.g. in the High Tauern.
Because the route is very frequently used, some sections are unfortunately already heavily worn, which however makes orientation, which is not always easy, easier. Absolute surefootedness and freedom from fear of heights is essential on the partly narrow ridge.
More climbing routes on airy towers can be found in my book Towers - 50 climbing routes.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
SteinlingalmSafety information
Since the Kampenwand crossing is "only a 4", the route is commonly (e.g. at the hut regulars' table) considered easy. Do not be misled by this; a full alpine skill set is required here!Tips and suggestions
Touristinfo Aschau , Kampenwandbahn , Steinlingalm , Updates from the author on FBRoadbook
Approach: We start from the hiking car park on the signposted path to Steinlingalm. In the forest road area, you can take some shortcuts, although the third one is not recommended due to a lot of dirt (see track). At the last hairpin turn to Steinlingalm, we follow the path west towards the Kampenwandbahn mountain station. Past Staffelstein, there is a large cross on the right, at whose level we turn onto a wide but unmarked path south (left). Those in a hurry can also take the Kampenwandbahn up and reach the junction in 10 minutes from its mountain station. We leave the Kampenwand hut to the right and follow the clearly visible path east to the start.
Route: The Tor path (IV-) is the classic and most beautiful start for the Kampenwand crossing. Alternatively, you can also start via the west ridge (normal route west summit II-III). Do not start on any of the more difficult sport climbing routes in the entry area. After three rope lengths on the Tor path, we reach the ridge, where experienced climbers can safely cross the west summit without a rope. The descent to the Gmelchturm follows a distinct trail with switchbacks on the south side. The Gmelchturm can be climbed either directly from the west (VI-) or in a dihedral on the north side (III+). From the Gmelchturm, rappel down. After a few meters on a ledge, we reach the start of the Teufelsturm. Slightly north of the ridge, around a prominent pinnacle (II), you reach the ridge again (bolted pitch, III) and flat east to the belay ring. We rappel 25 meters north onto a ledge and walk a few meters east on it to rappel another 10 meters into a chimney (chockstone). From here, traverse about 10 meters on a ledge below the beautiful, but unfortunately usually wet, dihedral. Climb this and in another rope length, we reach the Kampenwand main summit. On the descent east into the Schlechinger notch, a block (5 m, III) is best downclimbed on the northern (left) edge. Then significantly easier to the notch. Continue on trail traces east through the Kaisersäle to reach the normal route, which we follow to the Kampenwand east summit. Happy climbing!
Descent: On the marked path down to Steinlingalm and then on the familiar path back to the car.
Einstieg Kampenwandüberschreitung
Gmelchturm
Kampenwand Hauptgipfel
Schlechinger Scharte (Ausstieg Kampenwandüberschreitung)
Kampenwand Ostgipfel (1.664 m)
Steinlingalm
Public transport
On the Munich-Salzburg railway line, change trains at Prien to the regional train to Aschau. If starting the route in Aschau at the train station, the tour is extended by about half an hour each way.Directions
We take the A8 - Munich-Salzburg exit at Bernau and drive into the center of Bernau. At the traffic light, turn right towards Aschau. After about 3 km, turn left to Hintergschwendt. We follow the road past the Seiseralm guesthouse, reaching the hiking car park in Hintergschwendt via Vordergschwendt.Parking
Parking is at the shady, free hiking car park. If the otherwise large car park is full, you can also park along the forest road.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
The most beautiful classic climbing routes can be found in the book: Classics - 50 climbing routes by Stefan Stadler (50K).
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Climbing gear with 50 meter single rope and 6 quickdrawsLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions