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Alpine Climbing recommended route Alpine Climbing  · Brenta Dolomites

Moon Bears - Sport climbing route at Piccolo Dain

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DAV Section Teisendorf Verified partner 
  • Moon Bears Topo - overview photo with route
    Moon Bears Topo - overview photo with route
    Photo: Stefan Stadler, DAV Section Teisendorf

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    The climbing route Moon Bears leads in 7 pitches from Sarche through the southwest wall of Piccolo Dain. The sport climbing route is fully equipped with bolts – the spacing of the bolts is such that no additional protection needs to be placed. 
    moderate
    Distance 2 km
    5:00 h
    250 m
    250 m
    500 m
    250 m
    The approach to an alpine climbing route can hardly be shorter than for the Moon Bears. The route is still relatively new and therefore significantly less climbed than the older routes to the left. At the exit, a scenic ledge invites you to stay and have a snack.

    Author’s recommendation

    The Moon Bears "lies on the way" to Arco and is therefore ideally suited for the first day of a climbing holiday to warm up. The approach is ultra short, the route is not too long, so it still works well even after the arrival! 
    Difficulty
    VI5c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Elevation after exit, 500 m
    Lowest point
    Parking lot / start, 250 m
    Best time of year
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    0 m 0:15 h
    Wall height
    200 m
    Climbing length
    250 m, 4:15 h
    Descent
    250 m, 0:30 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    with bolts
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    10
    First ascent
    Salvaterra, Ghezzi 2011

    Track types

    Asphalt 30.07%Forested/wild trail 14.64%Path 50.24%No marked trail 5.03%
    Asphalt
    611 m
    Forested/wild trail
    297 m
    Path
    1 km
    No marked trail
    102 m
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Even though the approach is very short and the protection is very good, the dangers of an alpine multi-pitch route remain.

    Tips and suggestions

    Tourist Info Garda Lake, Guesthouse Villa Emma, Camping Zoo, latest from the Kletteronkel on Facebook

    Roadbook

    From the parking lot to the large roundabout and briefly along the sidewalk in the direction of Madonna di Campiglio. We cross the street and turn right onto a gravel road. We follow this until the entrance gate of the hydroelectric power plant, where the start is located. The first 2 pitches follow the routes Amazzonia and Orizzonti Dolomitici. Unfortunately, these 2 pitches are already very thinned out. After the 2nd pitch, we turn right onto the rough rock; the route name is also written here.

    The further course of the route is described by the topo.

    From the exit, we walk a bit further uphill following path traces until we reach the marked access and descent of the via ferrata. We then follow this further down until we return to the starting point. 

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Sarche di Lasino
    Einstieg Klettertouren Amazzonia, Orizzonti Dolomitici und Moon Bears
    Ausstieg der Klettertouren Il Razzismo dal Mondo, Amazzonia, Orizzonti Dolomitico und Moon Bears

    Public transport

    From the Intercity station Trento by bus no. 205 to Sarche.

    Directions

    You leave the motorway at the Trento Centro exit and follow the signs to Riva del Garda/Sarche. The road (SS45) leads over a hill (pass) directly to Sarche. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit (heading to Riva del Garda), and then the parking lot is on the left.

    Parking

    There is a very large, free parking lot at the supermarket in the town center. 

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.046227, 10.952408
    DMS
    46°02'46.4"N 10°57'08.7"E
    UTM
    32T 651052 5101036
    w3w 
    ///betrayer.jots.wedding
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    High walls near Arco www.versantesud.it Climbing routes in the Sarca valley by Heinz Grill www.lammers-koll-verlag.de

    Author’s map recommendations

    Tabacco Map 055: Valle del Sarca - Arco, Riva del Garda 1:25000 www.tabaccoeditrice.it

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    Climbing equipment with 50m single rope and 10 quickdraws

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

    User Questions

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    Difficulty
    VI5c moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2 km
    Duration
    5:00 h
    Ascent
    250 m
    Descent
    250 m
    Highest point
    500 m
    Lowest point
    250 m
    Round trip Scenic Wall Descending on foot Pleasure

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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