Valsugana, Lagorai, Tesino

Embracing the Valsugana along its entire northern side is the Lagorai chain: a mountainous massif more than 70 kilometres long (among the largest in Trentino) that starts at Monte Panarotta and ends at Passo Rolle, near the Pale di San Martino Dolomite area. This mountain chain does not have particularly high peaks - with the exception of the Cima d'Asta area, a granite massif with a singular geological history, whose summit is at 2,847 m) -, but it stands out, and is particularly appreciated by hikers, for its extremely wild nature. The entire chain is in fact still very little man-made and, even in the high season months, it is easy to find paths along which to walk for hours without encountering anyone.

It is precisely the lack of human presence - there are few managed refuges at high altitudes and most only open in the summer months - that makes the Lagorai a popular destination for those who want to indulge in a little adventure away from the hustle and bustle of the valley floor or the more touristy areas.

The best experience - even if only for the most experienced - to fully experience the mountains is certainly that of a multi-day hike. The choice can therefore fall on the Lagorai Panorama, a three-day loop for a total of 40 kilometres and over 2,000 m of altitude difference, the Alta Via del Granito, just under 30 kilometres for 2,300 m of altitude difference, or even the long and demanding Translagorai. The latter involves four or five days of walking (depending on the starting point chosen) from one end of the chain to the other, with overnight stays in a refuge or bivouac.

Walking among peaks and pastures, it is easy to stumble upon evidence of a not-too-distant past history: the entire Lagorai - but also the Cima XII-Ortigara chain, on the southern side of Valsugana - were the scene of bloody battles during World War I, as they represented precisely the borderline between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Kingdom of Italy. So you can easily find yourself walking along old trenches and among the shelters dug by soldiers in the rock to protect themselves during the harsh winters. It is not uncommon to even find shell casings, helmets and even pieces of firearms from the 1915-1918 war.

In recent years, some particularly significant sites have been enhanced, such as the military fortifications Forte Colle delle Benne, Forte di Tenna and Forte Busa Granda. At Cima Socede, in Val Campelle, a trail - called, not coincidentally, Sentiero della Memoria (Path of Remembrance ) - has been recovered that passes right through some of the old, upgraded entrenchments, along which barracks and scenes of life at the front have been reconstructed. Many artifacts from the Great War are now preserved at the Permanent Exhibition dedicated to Borgo Valsugana.

Particularly impressive is the Tour of Lake Levico, a 10-kilometer walking trail that begins with the Fishermen's Route and runs along the entire length of the emerald Lake Levico. As you walk, you can discover more about the varied lake fauna, but also simply enjoy the play of light on the surface of the water.

The best panoramic view of both lakes, on the other hand, is from Pizzo di Levico (or Cima Vezzena), a mountain that dominates the western Valsugana and thus offers a splendid view of the two large lakes as well. As evidence of the strong connection between nature and history, there is an old Austro-Hungarian fort on Pizzo di Levico, used especially as an observation point over the valley below and the Asiago Plateau area. Today the fortification has been renovated and a spectacular observation terrace has been installed.

The entire Lagorai is actually dotted with mountain lakes, some ephemeral and present only a few months a year, others permanent and a destination for pleasant walks. Particularly noteworthy among these are the Laghetto delle Prese, Lake Erdemolo, with its peculiar heart shape, Lago Grande, and Laghetto di Cima d'Asta.

And if walking through the green forests of Valsugana is not enough, why not strap on a bicycle? The first choice for two-wheel enthusiasts, but also for families who want to spend an afternoon doing some exercise, is certainly the Valsugana Cycle Path: 80 kilometers almost totally flat along the course of the Brenta River, from its source near the lakes of Levico and Caldonazzo to the center of the beautiful medieval town of Bassano del Grappa.

Sure, nice bike path, but... a little adrenaline? No problem: from the Tesino Plateau to the 3TBike circuit to the area of Vezzena Pass the offer in terms of MTB trails is wide and varied, with routes suitable for bikers of all levels.

Finally, a little treat for Giro d'Italia fans: often over the years the Carovana Rosa (Pink Caravan) has cycled through this valley, so why not try your hand at the routes of the champions and emulate their exploits on some of the legendary climbs of the Giro? The climbs to Passo Manghen, Menador and Vetriolo (Monte Panarotta) are only the most exciting.