Hiking Trail
· Province of Lecco
From Lierna to Varenna—On the Sentiero del Viandante
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The Sentiero del Viandante, the Wanderer’s Trail, follows an old mule track that ran halfway up the mountain slopes on the eastern side of Lake Como. It connected the Milan region with the Valtellina and Switzerland and was already in use during Roman times. The entire hike, approximately 45 km long, runs from Abbadia Lariana, north of Lecco, to the pilgrimage site of Madonna di Val Pozzo near Cólico and takes three to four days to complete. Its charm lies in the alternation between unspoiled forests and mountain valleys and centuries-old cultural landscapes featuring old stone houses and chapels, winding village centers, and terraced fields. The stage between Lierna and Varenna is divided into an upper and a lower route. The upper route described here is one of the most varied sections of the Sentiero del Viandante and offers many views of the lake, as well as glimpses of the mountain landscape beyond the lakeshore. At the end of the hike, two villages worth visiting await: Vezio and Varenna.> From the Lierna01 train station, turn left and walk downhill to an intersection; there, turn left again through the railroad underpass. Then turn right and walk along the railroad tracks until, after about 200 m, you see the sign on the left for the access road toward Genico. Follow it through a right-hand curve and, shortly afterward, turn left at the “Sentiero del Viandante” sign onto an asphalt path (markers 71 and 72), which—taking another left at a fork—leads uphill to Genico02 with its beautiful old town center. There, follow the trail markers through the village and pass under the expressway. The “Sentiero del Viandante” signs now lead first to the right, then shortly afterward to the left onto a rocky hiking trail that climbs quite steeply through the deciduous forest. You’ll reach the wooded Brentalone Valley, framed by rocky mountain slopes, and ascend on the opposite side of the valley to the Croce di Brentalone03 viewpoint.There, trail marker 71 leads straight ahead along the slope and then ascends above the Valle Brentalone to the meadows of Alpe Mezzedo04. Shortly afterward, you leave trail no. 71 to the left and hike to the small meadow valley of Pian di S. Pietro. As soon as the trail levels off, you’ll reach the next lookout point: hidden in the woods to the left is the little church of San Pietro05, offering magnificent views of the Lecco arm of the lake, the mountainous Triangolo, and the Tremezzina region on the other side of the lake. A gravel road begins at the church (where there is also a fountain), leading to a footpath that branches off to the left. Now follow the signs for the Sentiero del Viandante through a recreational park with picnic and barbecue areas and a fitness trail. At a pond, turn left, cross a meadow keeping to the right, and arrive at a parking lot near the small settlement of Ortanella06. If you’d like to grab a bite to eat, walk 300 m to the right to Agriturismo Cacciatori (closed on [day], meals by advance reservation only, Tel. +39/0341/860219, www.ilcacciatori.it). The Sentiero del Viandante continues straight ahead on a wide gravel path, passes the houses of Guillo, and winds around the Monte Fopp hill. The picturesque lake views are now replaced by rugged mountain scenery, the valley basin with the mountain village of Esino Lario, and the deeply incised Esino Valley. At a picnic area, a forest trail branches off to the right and leads downhill through sparse deciduous forest, with varying gradients. After the stone house at Alpe dei Fopp07, a particularly beautiful section of the Sentiero del Viandante begins. A narrow path runs along a ridge between the lakeshore and the Esino Gorge, offering photogenic views across the lake toward Bellagio, the western shore with Lenno and Tremezzo, and Varenna. After descending through the forest, you’ll come to a road; follow it briefly downhill and then straight ahead onto the footpath to Vezio08 (sign for “Castello di Vezio”). At a bar, keep to the right and you’ll reach an intersection where several options are signposted. To the right, the Sentiero del Viandante continues on to Bellano (see Tour 38). To the left, heading uphill, you can visit Vezio Castle—which features underground passages from World War I, a tower with a fantastic view, and a café (information at www.castellodivezio.it). Going downhill to the left takes you down a steep cobblestone path to Varenna09. There, head right along the main road to a crossroads, turn right, and follow the sign for “Stazione” to the Varenna-Esino10 train station, which offers train service back to Lierna.If you’d like to visit the picturesque old town center of Varenna or Villa Monastero, walk past the boat landing to the lakeside promenade.