Hikes in Lesa

In the deciduous forests of Monte Croce and Motta Rossa, we hike on shaded paths to magnificent viewpoints, hidden churches, and charming villages.

Linear route along the ancient lakeside mule tracks, which in summer can be combined with a charming return by boat.

Point-to-point hike from Lesa, located south of Belgirate, via Calogna and Falchetti to Stresa.

Comfortable hillside path with beautiful views of Lake Maggiore The densely populated shore strip between Stresa and Lesa on the western edge of Lake Maggiore is bordered by a wooded mountain ridge whose summit reaches just under 700 meters in height. The slopes gently descend towards the lake and form terraces on which small villages lie. Above 500 meters, where most of our hiking trail runs, the forest has long since overgrown the old cultivated areas.

The Way of the Votive ChapelsThis trail hike from Belgirate to Stresa (the return from Stresa to Belgirate is possible hourly by train, bus, or boat) is characterized by a wide view over the lake. After a short time, you leave the lively lakeside zone behind and enter a rural environment. Nearly 300 votive chapels are said to stand along the paths of the area, and we will pass by some of them.

Start in Campino, down to Baveno and then to Stresa. From there up and then on the chestnut path to Belgirate. From there we took the train to Stresa and then back on foot to Campino

A linear route following ancient lakeside mule tracks that connected Stresa to Belgirate, combined with a charming return boat ride.

At just under 700 meters in elevation, Monte Croce is an imposing mountain, even though its gently rolling shape doesn’t give it away. The view of the southern part of Lake Maggiore from here is truly heavenly. On our loop, we pass through small villages that haven’t yet been taken over by tourism to the same extent as the main towns along the lake. It’s also a bit cooler here than down in the valley, which benefits the local golf course we pass by. ▶ From the Church of S. Albino in Magognino 01, we set off eastward on Via Falchetti, quickly walking out of the small village. After the last house, where the road begins to descend, we turn right onto Strada Comunale Magognino–Calogna. At first, this is a driveway leading to a few more houses, but after house number 8, it narrows into a lovely hiking trail along which we hike comfortably southward. Time and again, we’re treated to a beautiful view down toward the lake. On the next section of the trail through the chestnut forest, we keep to the right at two forks and follow the—sometimes faint—markings toward Calogna. We pass the Chapel of St. Paul, after which our trail climbs somewhat more steeply into the village of Calogna 02. Here we’ll find a beautiful church, narrow alleyways, and a bar (to the left by the fountain).From the church, we walk into the village, keep right at the first fork, and after 15 m turn right again onto the village road, which we leave at the first intersection by turning left onto Via Motta Bassa. On this road, we quickly reach the last houses, because after only 200 m we turn right (5 m past a green chain-link fence) onto a narrow but well-maintained forest trail.We wind our way through the forest on this path, keeping to the right at the end of a stone wall, then continuing straight ahead at the next trail junction and again at the stone crossing over the stream that follows. From here, the path climbs somewhat more steeply up the mountain. Red dots and arrows mark the way. We come to a T-junction and, turning left, arrive immediately at the Church of S. Cristina. Now we follow the wide forest trail in the direction of travel and turn right at the first opportunity. The trail climbs steadily upward at a gentle incline, again offering occasional beautiful views. Soon after, we come to another fork in the trail; by turning right twice, we reach the summit and the chapel at Monte Croce 03. This wonderful spot, with its panoramic view to the south and shaded picnic benches, invites us to take a break. Afterward, we return to the fork where we had left the wide trail (a good 50 m) and continue along it to the right. The mixed forest of chestnut and birch trees exudes a cheerful atmosphere. We hike steadily northward along a somewhat undulating path, not far from the golf course, until we reach another T-junction. Here, we turn right and climb briefly uphill once more, quickly reaching the summit just below Motta Rossa 04. Modern houses have been built on the summit itself. We stay on our path—which is somewhat overgrown here—and follow the red-and-white markings as it winds down the slope in long loops to the right. Soon we cross the electric fence and hike straight down to the golf course’s paved road, where—as we walk—we first pass the driving range and then turn left past the clubhouse (restaurant).We have left the grounds and are now continuing along the access road, which has very little traffic. After a quarter of an hour, we walk along the narrow road to Stropino 05 toward the church and, passing it, continue straight ahead on Via Liberazione until we reach the end of the village. We come to a country road, where we turn right onto a small pass and then left downhill to the starting point in Magognino 01.

While things get quite busy—especially on weekends and during the summer months—in the main towns around Lake Maggiore and along the SS33, just a few steps away you’ll find quaint villages that have largely retained their peace and charm. These are deeply traditional and religious places, as evidenced by the many beautiful chapels we pass along the way. The leisurely high-altitude trail also offers repeated beautiful views down toward the lake before we return to the hustle and bustle in Stresa. ▶ In front of the parish church in Belgirate 01, we climb the stairs to Via Elena Conelli, which we follow to the left until it ends. Here, in front of a castle-like palace, we cross under the railroad tracks to the right and, on the other side, turn right again to walk up Via Per Calogna. Shortly afterward, at the left-hand curve, we turn right onto the pink-paved path, which quickly leads us to the Romanesque Chiesa Vecchia (1090–1120), offering a first fantastic view of Lake Maggiore. On Sundays and holidays, when the church is open, a visit to the interior, rich in frescoes, is especially worthwhile. Our hike continues behind the church as we follow the signs for Stresa up the mountain. The paved road runs alongside the cemetery and ends shortly thereafter. Between two driveways, a narrow donkey trail begins, leading us steeply uphill with scenic views until we reach a road. Here we turn right, and after just 50 meters—and shortly after passing a hiking sign—we turn left again to rejoin our paved path. On this path, we immediately reach a fork, where we keep to the right. We now enter a pleasantly shady and cool mixed forest. We cross another road and climb a few steps uphill. Shortly afterward, we pass the “Baita della Libertà” on our left and continue hiking upstream along the stream. We cross the stream and shortly afterward see the first houses of Calogna ahead of us. We quickly reach a beautiful wayside shrine; here we turn right and, within minutes, continue straight ahead into the center of Calogna 02. The climb is now behind us, and from here we enjoy a long descent back to Lake Maggiore. To do this, we turn right at the blue road sign marked “Lesa 5 km” and then left again after 15 m. (If we turned right here, there’d be a bar right away.) We walk past the church on our left, after which the trail begins to descend steeply. Near the last houses, the paved road turns into an easy hiking trail, which we follow further north. Just under a quarter of an hour later, we pass the S. Paolo Chapel. We stay on the main path heading north and maintain our elevation.At a cluster of houses, our path turns back into a paved road, which ends shortly thereafter at the village road. Here we continue to the left and reach the church square of Magognino 03 within minutes. Even before reaching the Church of S. Albino, we turn right onto Via Veneto and, shortly after, turn left around the corner with it. After a short descent, the road ends at a T-intersection. Here, we briefly head left up Via Felice Cavalotti, reach the main road, walk straight ahead for another 10 meters, and then turn right down a narrow, steeply descending alley marked with a dead-end sign and a trail marker.Near the last houses, it turns into a paved path that leads us across the stream and further downhill to the Brisino cemetery. Here, we turn sharply left onto the access road. Now we walk straight ahead until, 100 m past the sports field, we keep to the right at a fork marked by a large walnut tree. We follow this road as it curves left around the corner, but leave it a few meters later at the red-and-white marker, turning right onto the downhill trail. It leads us down into the forest in a right-hand curve to a fork, where we continue to the left. Now we walk straight ahead for a longer stretch, ignoring a right-hand fork, and soon find ourselves back on a paved road. After a gentle climb, we come to a fork with a fig tree and now head right downhill toward the Oratorio di Passero 04. From the quiet benches by the church, we enjoy a particularly idyllic view of Lake Maggiore from Laveno to Cannero Riviera. A few steps north of the church is a short wooden fence with reflectors. Behind it, a path leads us down to a road, which we cross and then follow onto a gravel path marked with a dead-end sign. It soon ends at a dark brown fence with red “cones” or continues here as a narrow path that takes us down and across a stream. Shortly afterward, we come to a paved driveway, which we now follow in the direction of travel until we reach its end. On the asphalt, we continue straight ahead until we reach a large intersection. Here we must decide: by keeping slightly to the right here and at the following junctions, we’ll reach the bustling center and eventually Piazza Matteotti in Stresa 05 (boat dock and bus stop near the Hotel Milan du Lac). However, if we’re taking the train back, we head slightly to the left onto Via per Binda and continue straight ahead onto Via Principe di Piemonte, which quickly brings us to the train station.