Tabaretta via ferrata on Ortler

From the parking lot in Sulden (1,850 m), a well-marked and signposted hiking trail initially leads gently through the forest, later steeply over alpine meadows and scree channels up to the Tabaretta hut. At the managed hut, after a brief refreshment, the question arises whether to haul the full gear up the vertical walls of the via ferrata or to limit yourself to the essentials and leave the rest at the hut? When deciding, one should consider that the outward center of gravity at the overhanging sections (E) of the via ferrata greatly stretches the arms! The extra 500 vertical meters (route then a total of 2,700 m ascent) to collect the gear again via the normal route can save a lot of hardship.
Behind the hut, you will find the signpost to the via ferrata and follow the narrow, partly exposed path (marked in orange), which leads at the foot of the rock wall to the start of the via ferrata at the upper end of a scree channel at 2,550 m. 750 vertical meters, just under 2 hours

TABARETTA VIA FERRATA: (500 vertical meters, 800 climbing meters, difficulty E)
Since this vertical, even overhanging via ferrata has no single rung, attention must be paid to holds in the rock or they must be found by yourself. A climber will probably find his way around this ingenious route easier than a typical via ferrata walker.

You have to grab firmly right at the "entry chimney" (C and C/D), followed by a steep corner (C). After a short rest (A), the "Heaven" awaits with a power move, an overhang on us (D, then C). The name "Heaven" is very fitting, as you already feel to be there - from here there is always a sensational view of the north face of Ortler! The way to "Kleppenschleider" goes almost relaxed (A/B and B), until the biceps are needed again at the steep crack (D/E). After an airy traverse (B) and a difficult steep section (C), you reach the key spot at the "Gelen Knott". This is a smooth, rungless, overhanging and exposed traverse on a slab that is extremely exhausting (with an additional short belay, you can save yourself a lot of effort here!). Here you should have sandpaper on your soles because you have to climb it friction-based! First work, then pleasure – now you can rest (A) before it goes steeply left again over rock formations (C or C/D). Easier sections (A and B) lead onto a smooth slab (C and B) to a "traverse" (A). Mobilize your strength once more and drag yourself up a edge (B/C), the very smooth corner (D). After a slab (A) you still face a small overhang (C) and leave the via ferrata after 2 ½ to 3 hours over rock steps (B) and rock ledges (A) at just over 3,000 m! After exiting, a hiking trail leads right to the Payr hut, where you can refresh and rest until the next day.

If the luggage is deposited at the Tabaretta hut, do not forget it and pick it up via the normal route!

FURTHER ASCENT TO THE ORTLER SUMMIT:
At the Payr hut, you have to get up early (before 5 am) if you want to catch breakfast. It is still worthwhile to start on time because you have a long ascent and an even longer descent to manage that day.

The orientation from the hut to Ortler is not easy, as markings are largely missing on the "pathless" rocky ridge. It is deliberately ensured here that you hire a mountain guide who leads the group (of course limited participants) to the popular Ortler for a nice fee. But not with us! If you are a bit practiced in reading tracks, you always find a "way". The exposed ridge which has climbing sections (rock grade II) and whose most difficult section is secured by a chain requires surefootedness, technical climbing skills and possibly also a rope team. Once you have reached the glacier, orientation is much easier due to the frequent tracks. The direction to the summit is also clearly indicated and so the rope team ventures onto ice, which becomes so steep at rock steps that the ice axe is gladly drawn and used accordingly. As the air thins, it later goes more leisurely left to the summit ridge where you can already see the cross. The camera will probably be put away rarely, so overwhelming is the view just under 4,000 m above sea level. Ascent from the Payr hut: 1,000 vertical meters (including short counter ascents on the ridge), 4 hours Descent from the summit is via the ascent route on the glacier. Fortunate is the one who has already climbed from the Payr hut at dawn, as descent is much more strenuous under refrozen conditions. Once the strenuous up and down climbing section on the rocky ridge back to the Payr hut is overcome and the gear stowed, follow the exposed normal route over the Tabaretta hut into the valley to Sulden. Surefootedness is required despite secured sections! 2,200 vertical meters, 5 hours from the summit!