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Via Ferrata recommended route Via Ferrata  · Dolomites

Ladder route - Toblinger Knoten, 2617 m - Sexten Dolomites

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  • Steep section in the middle part of the Leiternsteig
    Steep section in the middle part of the Leiternsteig
    Photo: Christjan Ladurner, alpenvereinaktiv.com

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    Extremely interesting and demanding climbing, which leads through the north face of the Toblinger Knoten in a spectacular environment. Not too long and very pleasant approach. The climber in good condition can combine this ascent with the Innerkofler route on the Paternkofel.
    moderate
    Distance 9.8 km
    4:30 h
    550 m
    550 m
    2,617 m
    2,326 m
    Short but very steep and exposed ascent, mostly over ladders. The ladder entries are sometimes almost overhanging. Due to its shortness, this via ferrata is an ideal "test piece" to explore the way into the world of difficult routes. Mountain experience, arm strength and absolute freedom from dizziness are required in the very airy sections!

    Author’s recommendation

    For the experienced and physically strong mountaineer, the combination of ladder route on the Toblinger Knoten and De Luca-Innerkofler route on the Paternkofel is recommended. You descend from the Toblinger Knoten to the Drei-Zinnen Hut and then walk briefly to the Paternstollen, a tunnel from the First World War (headlamp). Through this you reach the actual via ferrata. You no longer have to descend from the summit of the Paternkofel to the Drei-Zinnen Hut, but can cross the Paternkofel towards the Paternsattel and then hike back to the starting point from there.
    Difficulty
    B/C moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Toblinger Knoten, 2,617 m
    Lowest point
    Auronzo Hut, 2,326 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
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    May
    Jun
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    Sep
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    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    440 m, 1:45 h
    Climbing length
    110 m, 0:45 h
    Descent
    550 m, 2:00 h

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    There is often heavy traffic on the ladder route, with the possibility of falling rocks both on ascent and descent.

    Roadbook

    From the Auronzo Hut (2326 m), follow the wide gravel path to the Paternsattel and further to the Drei-Zinnen Hut (2405 m). Behind the hut (signposted), the red-marked ascent to the Toblinger Knoten begins. You go below the south wall of the tower to the left and thus reach the start at the foot of the north face. The steep start (C) is also the key section of the via ferrata. Over stepped rocks (A) you reach a ladder and continue through a gully (A/B) to a series of ladders. After a short, flat section you reach a chimney with several exposed ladders. The following section (B/C) leads to the next ladder and around an edge into a recess (A/B). Again, ladders lead up through the chimney to the left to exit onto an airy edge. Further over a ladder and then over rock (B) to a ledge. A ladder leads up to the exit. The ascent over the ladders was not rated. A steeply mounted ladder is still a ladder! From the summit, descend over the northeast flank (Feldkurat Hosp-Steig, marked with red triangles). You have to master some unsecured, exposed passages, partly easy climbing, partly exposed path. For the most part, the descent is secured with steel cables.
    Rest stop
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    Photo
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    Lavaredo hut
    Paternsattel - Forcella Lavaredo
    Drei Zinnen Hütte (Rif. A. Locatelli)
    Toblinger Knoten

    Public transport

    From Bolzano or over the Brenner Pass, you can take the train to Toblach and change there to the local bus to the Auronzo Hut (June to September). Information at www.sii.bz.it

    Directions

    From the Brenner motorway exit Brixen/Pustertal, continue through the Pustertal to Toblach, then turn off into the Höhlenstein Valley (direction Cortina) and drive to Schluderbach. Continue left towards Misurina. Shortly before, turn left and take the private road (overpriced toll road!) up to the large car park at the Auronzo Hut.

    Parking

    Large car park (fee included in the toll) at the Auronzo Hut

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.612228, 12.296366
    DMS
    46°36'44.0"N 12°17'46.9"E
    UTM
    33T 292976 5165624
    w3w 
    ///hushing.project.simplifying
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Author’s map recommendations

    TABACCO, sheet 010, Sextener Dolomites, 1:25,000

    Equipment

    Light mountain or trekking shoes, complete via ferrata equipment, mountain clothing and weather protection. A bivouac sack always belongs in the backpack!

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

    User Questions

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    Difficulty
    B/C moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    9.8 km
    Duration
    4:30 h
    Ascent
    550 m
    Descent
    550 m
    Highest point
    2,617 m
    Lowest point
    2,326 m
    Round trip Scenic Refreshment stops available Cultural/historical interest Summit route Completely cable-secured Classic via ferrata

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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