Ladder route - Toblinger Knoten, 2617 m - Sexten Dolomites
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Extremely interesting and demanding climbing, which leads through the north face of the Toblinger Knoten in a spectacular environment. Not too long and very pleasant approach. The climber in good condition can combine this ascent with the Innerkofler route on the Paternkofel.
moderate
Distance 9.8 km
4:30 h
550 m
550 m
2,617 m
2,326 m
Short but very steep and exposed ascent, mostly over ladders. The ladder entries are sometimes almost overhanging. Due to its shortness, this via ferrata is an ideal "test piece" to explore the way into the world of difficult routes. Mountain experience, arm strength and absolute freedom from dizziness are required in the very airy sections!
Author’s recommendation
For the experienced and physically strong mountaineer, the combination of ladder route on the Toblinger Knoten and De Luca-Innerkofler route on the Paternkofel is recommended. You descend from the Toblinger Knoten to the Drei-Zinnen Hut and then walk briefly to the Paternstollen, a tunnel from the First World War (headlamp). Through this you reach the actual via ferrata. You no longer have to descend from the summit of the Paternkofel to the Drei-Zinnen Hut, but can cross the Paternkofel towards the Paternsattel and then hike back to the starting point from there.
Difficulty
B/C
moderate
Overall difficulty
moderate
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
Toblinger Knoten, 2,617 m
Lowest point
Auronzo Hut, 2,326 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
Approach
440 m,
1:45 h
Climbing length
110 m,
0:45 h
Descent
550 m,
2:00 h
Track types
Show elevation profileSafety information
There is often heavy traffic on the ladder route, with the possibility of falling rocks both on ascent and descent.Roadbook
From the Auronzo Hut (2326 m), follow the wide gravel path to the Paternsattel and further to the Drei-Zinnen Hut (2405 m). Behind the hut (signposted), the red-marked ascent to the Toblinger Knoten begins. You go below the south wall of the tower to the left and thus reach the start at the foot of the north face. The steep start (C) is also the key section of the via ferrata. Over stepped rocks (A) you reach a ladder and continue through a gully (A/B) to a series of ladders. After a short, flat section you reach a chimney with several exposed ladders. The following section (B/C) leads to the next ladder and around an edge into a recess (A/B). Again, ladders lead up through the chimney to the left to exit onto an airy edge. Further over a ladder and then over rock (B) to a ledge. A ladder leads up to the exit. The ascent over the ladders was not rated. A steeply mounted ladder is still a ladder! From the summit, descend over the northeast flank (Feldkurat Hosp-Steig, marked with red triangles). You have to master some unsecured, exposed passages, partly easy climbing, partly exposed path. For the most part, the descent is secured with steel cables.
Rest stop
Nearby
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Waypoint
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End point
Low point
High point
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Photo
Video
Lavaredo hutPaternsattel - Forcella Lavaredo
Drei Zinnen Hütte (Rif. A. Locatelli)
Toblinger Knoten
Public transport
From Bolzano or over the Brenner Pass, you can take the train to Toblach and change there to the local bus to the Auronzo Hut (June to September). Information at www.sii.bz.itDirections
From the Brenner motorway exit Brixen/Pustertal, continue through the Pustertal to Toblach, then turn off into the Höhlenstein Valley (direction Cortina) and drive to Schluderbach. Continue left towards Misurina. Shortly before, turn left and take the private road (overpriced toll road!) up to the large car park at the Auronzo Hut.Parking
Large car park (fee included in the toll) at the Auronzo HutCoordinates
DD
46.612228, 12.296366
DMS
46°36'44.0"N 12°17'46.9"E
UTM
33T 292976 5165624
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Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
Author’s map recommendations
TABACCO, sheet 010, Sextener Dolomites, 1:25,000
Equipment
Light mountain or trekking shoes, complete via ferrata equipment, mountain clothing and weather protection. A bivouac sack always belongs in the backpack!Localization
Parts of this content were machine translated from German.
Difficulty
B/C
moderate
Overall difficulty
moderate
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Distance
9.8 km
Duration
4:30 h
Ascent
550 m
Descent
550 m
Highest point
2,617 m
Lowest point
2,326 m
Weather at the starting point
Statistics
Maps and trails
Nothing selected - click and drag in the elevation profile to zoom
Distance
Duration
Ascent
Descent

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