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Via Ferrata recommended route Via Ferrata  · Altopiano della Paganella Open

Bocchette Alte

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  • Ascent of the Val Perse towards Bocca di Tuckett
    Ascent of the Val Perse towards Bocca di Tuckett
    Photo: ph. www.via-ferrata.de, Visit Paganella

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    The section after Bocchette Centrali leads into the heart of the Brenta Dolomites between exposed ledges and long ladders.

    Attention! During the summer of 2025, Refuge Pedrotti will be totally CLOSED to the public without the possibility of overnight stays and/or refreshments.

    Open
    difficult
    Distance 3.8 km
    3:11 h
    719 m
    817 m
    2,913 m
    2,579 m
     
    Difficulty
    B/C difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    2,913 m
    Lowest point
    2,579 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
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    Track types

    Path 18.30%Via ferrata 81.69%
    Path
    697 m
    Via ferrata
    3.1 km
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Rifugio Alimonta

    Safety information

    Check the weather and the route conditions in advance, take the appropriate equipment with you and let somebody know where you plan to go. 

    Here you find more information about how to behave in the mountains.

    The local Alpine Guides accompany you competently and give you tips on the most suitable trails for your abilities.

    112 is the number to call in case of emergencies.

    Tips and suggestions

    Meteo Trentino

    How to behave in the mountains

    Visit Paganella

    Roadbook

    From Bocca di Tuckett, which you can reach by climbing up the Val Perse from Rifugio Croz dell'Altissimo, take the Bocchette Alte path.

    The ascent route is secured with wire ropes and short ladders and leads along narrow ledges. Continue alternating between sections of the normal path and others that are equipped until you reach a wide detrital ledge (Cengia Garbari).

    The trail now begins to descend. Ropes lead in a fairly exposed direction to two metal ladders that allow you to descend into a steep snowy gully. Proceeding along the trail, you reach a rocky terrace located below Cima Brenta. This observation point is ideal for a rest; it is about halfway along the path.

    Descend to the Bocchetta Alta dei Massodi via very exposed ridges and rocky edges in the direction of the Spallone dei Massodi. To reach it, climb a long ladder and continue through equipped rock jumps with solid rock. Further metal ladders lead to the Bocchetta Bassa dei Massodi.

    The track branches off: to the right you take the Oliva Detassis path, while to the left a narrow ledge leads to the snow-covered gorge and starts climbing again with ladders and ropes.

    The last part of the trail leads across scree and easy rocks to the Vedretta degli Sfulmini. Keeping to the edge of the vedretta in 30 minutes, you reach the Rifugio Alimonta at 2580 m.

    From Bocca di Tuckett, continue right from here following signs up stepped rocks to the obvious start of the ferrata. Cables and ladders follow steeply up the crest to vertical ladders that lead up to the main ledge system. Crampons and ice axes may be found necessary on this first tiring, cold and windy section, especially at the start of the season. The exposed but well-equipped ledge now leads off leftwards, along the eastern flank of Cima Brenta. After an easy zigzag ascent reach a plaque and the Via Normale that scrambles up, via cairns and a series of chimneys, to Cima Vallesinella and Cima Brenta (3151 m – 1 hour, care and attention required). The ferrata however continues on and descends into a dark and damp gully, past cables to a small icefield. This section is rightly considered the crux as the cable may be buried in snow at the start of the season and tends not to be taught. After having crossed this (queues possible) the ferrate leads up and down ledges to reach a wide terrace with a fantastic view south onto the flat Spallone dei Massodi and the impressive Cima Brenta to the north. Leave this panorama point and descend steeply via cables and ladders to the Bocca Alta dei Massodi and the famous Scala degli Amici. Thirty exposed vertical meters lead to the windy Spallone at 3000m.

    Follow signs across this to duck down into a gully and a gravely path that descends to further ladders and the saddle (Bocca Bassa dei Massodi nestled beneath Cima Molveno (2917m). A variation leads off rightwards slightly beforehand down the Via Ferrata Oliva Detassis, but the Via delle Bocchette Alte continues left at the fork to the obvious saddle and then on up to Cima Molveno.

    Descend easily to the Vedretta dei Sfulmini glacier and Rifugio Alimonta (2580m).

    Rest stop
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    Rifugio Alimonta

    Public transport

    Public transport: train from Trento to Mezzolombardo/Mezzocorona and then bus to Molveno. 

    Directions

    Coming from the North: Highway A22: San Michele all'Adige exit. State road SS43: Mezzolombardo exit. Provincial road SP64 in the direction of ‘Altopiano della Paganella’.

    Coming from the South: Highway A22: Trento Sud exit. Directions to Terme di Comano/Tione di Trento/Madonna di Campiglio. Just before Terme di Comano, follow the signs: Villa Banale/San Lorenzo in Banale/Molveno.

    Parking

    Molveno, departure of the cableway.

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.185585, 10.901271
    DMS
    46°11'08.1"N 10°54'04.6"E
    UTM
    32T 646725 5116424
    w3w 
    ///starker.resent.zeroing
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    Approach shoes, rucksack with: water and something to eat, rain jacket, sun cream.

    It is necessary that you bring the via ferrata set: harness, kit with dissipator, 2 carabiners and helmet.

    Use the equipment correctly: always attach the two carabiners and keep a safe distance.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from Italian.

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    Status
    Open
    Difficulty
    B/C difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    3.8 km
    Duration
    3:11 h
    Ascent
    719 m
    Descent
    817 m
    Highest point
    2,913 m
    Lowest point
    2,579 m
    Scenic Geological highlights Completely cable-secured Classic via ferrata Linear route

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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