The high-altitude ski tour to the Hochvernagtspitze at over 3,500 metres leads over the still mighty Vernagtferner. The ascent in one day is probably reserved exclusively for extremely fit ski tourers. An overnight stay at the Vernagthütte, which is open from the beginning of March to May, is therefore advisable.
The main summit (= summer summit) of the Hochvernagtspitze is rarely climbed in winter, as there are usually large cornices blocking the way between the winter and summer summits. The ascent from the mountain hut to the summit is not very difficult in alpine terms.
The tour to the Hochvernagtspitze should be split into a two-day tour, as the ascent from Rofen to the Vernagthütte takes a few hours and the crossing above the Vernagt stream gorge is the first alpine challenge.
The first third of the ski tour from the refuge to the Hochvernagtspitze is not difficult. The second third is a little steeper, but does not present any technical alpine difficulties.
The final ascent on foot to the summit ridge and over this to the winter summit is somewhat steeper.
Author’s recommendation
To climb the Hochvernagtspitze, you should spend the night at the Vernagthütte. To fill the first day, there are some beautiful tour destinations in the vicinity of the refuge.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Gasthof RofenhofSafety information
You should set off early from Rofen to the Vernagt hut, as the slopes above the Vernagt gorge are warmed by the sun very early and are therefore often at risk of avalanches and falling rocks.
The ascent to the Hochvernagtspitze leads over glaciated terrain. In late winter, the risk of crevasses is rather low, but you should still carry a chest/seat harness, rope and ice axe.
The transition from the winter summit to the actual main summit can be dangerous due to large cornices in the area of the saddle.
Tips and suggestions
Vernagthütte (2755 m, DAV): Tel. +43/(0)664/7980757, e-mail: info@vernagt-scheiber.at, open from early March to mid-May
Vent is a mountaineering village of the Austrian Alpine Club: www.bergsteigerdoerfer.org
Ötztal Nature Park : www.naturpark-oetztal.at
The Vernagthütte is also on the Venter Schirunde (Ötztal Haute Route). On five daily stages, you cross the magnificent high mountain and glacier landscape of the Ötztal Alps: www.vent.at/de/winter/winteraktivitaeten/skitouren/skitourentipps/venter-skirunde.html
Roadbook
From Rofen, we follow the road to the valley station of the material cable car that leads to the Vernagthütte. After a short, flatter section, the slope quickly becomes steeper and we follow the summer ascent in a few hairpin bends up to the Platteiberg, a slightly steeper plateau. High above the Rofenschlucht gorge, we now cross the plateau in a south-westerly direction until we reach the entrance to the Vernagtschlucht gorge. At over 2,500 metres, we now follow the steep southern slopes above the Vernagt Gorge in the direction of the Vernagt Hut. As we cross the gorge, the terrain becomes gentler again and we reach Kote 2,595 metres. Now briefly heading south, the final ascent to the refuge (2,755 m; 800 metres of ascent, walking time: 3 hours) takes place over a pleasantly steep ridge.
If you still have enough time on this day, there are still some beautiful tour destinations in the vicinity of the refuge (e.g.: Guslarspitzen, Fluchtkogel, etc.).
From the Vernagthütte in a north-westerly direction on the lateral moraine to its end. Here you usually ski a few metres with your skins down to the glacier floor in order to reach the glacier comfortably. We now ascend flat in a slightly westerly direction up to the rocks worn away by the glacier, where there is also a climate station. We bypass this and then ascend between two rock ribs to reach the somewhat steeper glacier descending to the north-west. After a good 100 metres in altitude, the terrain becomes noticeably gentler again and leads in a northerly direction to the foot of the summit structure. Climb a good 30 metres in altitude either on skis or on foot. You have now reached the easier winter summit. If you want to climb the main summit, follow the ridge in an easterly direction until you reach a notch. The main summit (3,530 m) can now be reached via a short descent and ascent. The notch is often problematic as it can be heavily overgrown.
Descent option: If you don't want to ski down the ascent line, you can also ski down in a direct south-easterly line over the somewhat steeper glacier. From there, continue in an easterly direction up to an altitude of approx. 3,000 metres. Here we then turn southwards and reach the glacier tongue of the Vernagtferner, which is pleasantly steep. If we stay at the Vernagthütte for a few more days, we cross a little higher up to reach the refuge without any problems; otherwise, follow the former glacier basin downhill. Passing the gauging station, we soon reach the crossing above the Vernagt Gorge again. Here follows a short ascent to the plateau of the Plattei mountain (the ascent can be made either on skis or on foot). From the Platteiberg, the route is briefly flat in a north-easterly direction until the terrain becomes steeper. Over the beautiful and consistently steep slopes down to the valley station of the material cable car. Take the track back to Rofen.
Gasthof Rofenhof
Hochvernagtspitze 3535m
Übergang über den Platteibach
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
By train to Ötztal railway station. Then take the Ötztal transport company line 320 to Sölden Post Office (change). Continue with line 330 to Vent/Hotel Similaun (terminus). Now walk approx. two kilometres on the road to Rofen.
Directions
Take the A12 Inntal motorway or the B171 to Ötztal. Then take the Ötztalstraße B186 to Zwieselstein. Turn right here to the mountaineering village of Vent. Continue along a narrow road to the highest and permanently populated mountain farms in Rofen (2014 m).
Parking
At the end of the road in Rofen, not too large car park, which belongs to the Rofenhof inn. Free parking is available on request at the inn. On your return you should stop off at the Gasthof Rofen.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Weiss, R., S. Weiss, K. Schall and W. Lexer (2006): Hochvernagtspitze, 3,530 m - via the large Vernagtferner. In: Ski Touring Atlas Austria West: 300 ski summits + many variants (Salzburg, Tyrol, Vorarlberg). Schall-Verlag (ed.). 3rd, expanded and updated edition.
OeAV Department of Spatial Planning and Nature Conservation - ed. (2005): Threatened Alpine Glaciers. Alpine Spatial Planning No. 27, Technical Contributions of the Oesterreichischer Alpenverein. Innsbruck.
Oesterreichischer Alpenverein - ed. (2009): Vent im Ötztal - a classic among mountaineering villages. 2nd ed.; Innsbruck. 49 S.
Schlosser, H. (2012): Alpine history in a nutshell: Vent in Ötztal. Austrian Alpine Club (ed.). Innsbruck, 122 p.
Author’s map recommendations
Alpine Club Map "Ötztal Alps - Wildspitze", No. 30/6, 1:25000
Alpine Club map "Ötztal Alps, Weißkugel", No. 30/2, 1:25000
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Standard ski touring equipment incl. avalanche transceiver, probe, shovel and, depending on snow conditions (crevasse situation), harness, rope and ice axe. Change of clothes, snack, liquids, sun cream, ...
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

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