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The route from Refuge Écrins to Roche Faurio. Pic Coolidge, Le Fifre, Barre des Écrins (from left to right).Photo: Michael Larcher, Alpenverein Hall in Tirol
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Refuge EcrinsSafety information
The summit structure requires climbing experience (including with crampons on rock) and a high degree of surefootedness. Less experienced climbers need rope protection, for which there are enough natural protection points.Tips and suggestions
Roadbook
From the Écrins hut, we first descend about 120 meters down to the Glacier Blanc. On the right bank of the mighty glacier, we then proceed with little elevation gain for about 1.7 km towards the southwest. We reach the glacier that drops steeply down from the Roche Faurio and is flanked by two ridges. Before the left rock ridge, or at the orographically right edge of the glacier, is the best spot for the approximately 300 meters ascent to the ski depot. (Contrary to the route shown on the French map, from 3500 m we do not head out onto the south ridge but stay right and climb up the steep slope.)
Those who want to go from the ski depot (2619 m) to the main summit, which is just under 100 meters higher, first ascend further over the snow flank (Watch out for cornices! Keep a safe distance from the edge of the terrain!). After a few minutes, the rocky summit structure becomes visible, which is first climbed on the left (southern) side (a UIAA 3 section), then directly on the ridge. Very exposed!
Public transport
By train: Innsbruck Hbf - Zürich HB - Geneva - Valence (TGV station) - BrianconTravel time (minimum): 15:17 hours, 3 changes
Directions
From Innsbruck via the Brenner, then continuing via Verona, Milan and Turin to Briancon (631 km, approx. 6:40 h). From Briancon via Les Vigneaux, Vallouise, St. Antoine and Ailefroide towards the valley end or Pré de Madame Carle (34 km, approx. 50 min).Parking
Depending on time and winter conditions or snow cover: free parking (in winter half-year) in parking bays shortly before Pré de Madame Carle or in parking bays before the end of the snow-free road.Coordinates
Author’s map recommendations
Equipment
Equipment for ski tours including emergency equipment. Equipment for glacier tours: rope, harness, crampons (ice axe not necessarily required). For orientation: IGN map, possibly GPS or Alpenverein app aktiv.com (download the tour including map at home for offline use).
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions