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Ski Touring
· East Tyrol
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Hoffmannspitze & Pöschlturm - Glocknerwand
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Photo: Christian Resch, Alpenverein Spittal/Drau
Alea iacta est - the die is cast! If it is once again crowded and hectic at the Großglockner, this route is recommended as a quiet, equally worthwhile alternative with an exciting steep descent.
Exciting and relatively long high alpine ski tour - especially for those who prefer it quiet and solitary.
The ascent over the steep south face makes the heart of ambitious all-round alpinists beat faster.
From the middle of the wall it gets technically interesting: firn up to just under 40°, garnished with a short 45° section, on the ridge short climbing up to grade II to the summit of the Hoffmannspitze!
The grand finale is the short and tricky climbing section on the exposed summit of the Pöschlturm - in the upper grade III!
With good conditions, a ski ascent just below the two showpiece peaks is possible. The last 70m require climbing with crampons, which should be mastered confidently. In adverse conditions (slush or bare ice) crampons and ice axe are required already from 3400m.
Rightfully an absolute top ski touring destination in the magnificent Glockner group - for lateral thinkers who like to be abstractly on the move.
According to the internationally used five-part difficulty scale by TOPONEIGE (I=easy / II=moderately difficult / III=difficult / IV=very difficult / V=extremely difficult), the ski technical and mountaineering demands of this tour are rated as III-IV.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
LucknerhausLucknerhütte
Safety information
Long and demanding high alpine ski tour that should by no means be underestimated. In snowy winters and relatively early in the year, the descent is already possible just below the summit, but only recommended under perfect conditions.
In the upper wall section, steep firn passages with a short section up to 45°. The entire ascent on the south face requires constant concentration. On the ridge initially climbing up to grade II, the Pöschlturm demands upper grade III. No protection bolts present, an abseil bolt is drilled into the summit!
Tips and suggestions
Possibility to stop or overnight at the Stüdlhütte, for those who prefer a slightly more relaxed approach!
https://www.alpenverein-muenchen-oberland.de/huetten/alpenvereinshuetten/stuedlhuette
Roadbook
From the Lucknerhaus through the Ködnitztal to the Lucknerhütte and further to the Stüdlhütte.
From the Stüdlhütte northwards onto the Teischnitzkees - always parallel along the Luisengrat and underneath the Großglockner west wall to the unstructured and evenly inclined southwest face of the Glocknerwand.
A stretch in the face with the skis upwards, then continuing on foot (crampons & later from the middle of the wall ice axe) diagonally to the left to the northwest summit of the Glocknerwand (Hoffmannspitze).
Following the ridge - which drops steeply to the north, short and descending - on the south side and in a short, demanding climb (III+) to the Pöschlturm.
After abseiling from the tower, the traverse continues on the south face to avoid the unpleasant climbing on the rocky ridge.
The rest of the descent or the descent route follows basically the ascent route.
Once on the glacier, follow the usual descent over the Stüdlhütte to the Lucknerhaus. Some interesting variations are possible here!
Lucknerhaus
Lucknerhaus
Fanatkogel 2905m (Fanotkogel)
Stüdlhütte
Lucknerhaus
Lucknerhütte
Einstieg Stüdlgrat (~3.320 m)
Einstieg Glocknerwand Nordwestgrat
Directions
Easiest by car via Lienz to Kals. From there via a toll road to the Lucknerhaus.Parking
Spacious and free parking directly at the Lucknerhaus.Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
The usual high alpine ski touring equipment (absolutely take crampons) including ice axe and crampons. 30m rope for abseiling from the Pöschlturm, possibly mobile safety devices for those especially cautious for the demanding ascent on the tower - no protection bolts are present, only an abseil bolt at the summit!Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions