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Ski Touring
· East Tyrol
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Großglockner Northwest Ridge - "the fantastic traverse"
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Anstieg durch das Ködnitztal, unterhalb die StüdlhüttePhoto: Christian Resch, Alpenverein Spittal/Drau
This high alpine ski route is worthwhile and challenging in every respect. The crossing of the Glocknerhorn with the subsequent traverse of the Großglockner provides a magnificent ascent with unique alpine impressions!
This round begins quite leisurely, with about 1400 meters of ascent on skis.
In the steep south face, you switch to "four-wheel drive" and ascend – equipped with crampons and ice axe – through a narrow gully to the notch between Teufelshorn and Glocknerhorn. The latter is now climbed directly via a slabby ramp on the exposed ridge (one pitch up to -III).
Arriving at the Glocknerhorn, a tremendous mountain scenery opens up.
The best is known to come at the end, so now opens the possibility to climb through the exciting northwest ridge. This offers fine slabby ridge climbing (up to grade III), never seriously difficult and very rewarding for placing all kinds of mobile protection.
On the ridge itself, individual pitons can be found repeatedly. Even the notorious Draschplatte – after the steep Ranggetiner band – loosens almost by itself.
The climbing requirements are roughly comparable to those on the Stüdl ridge; however, climbing with crampons should be mastered solidly.
This ascent to Austria's highest peak is very lonely; only very few mountaineers are out here in winter...
On the descent, congestion should be expected, especially in the area of the upper Glockner notch. Once this is finally behind you, if there is enough snow and safe conditions, the skis can be put back on at the Kleinglockner.
The upper section to the shoulder is very steep (<45°) and should only be attempted by experienced skiers.
From the shoulder, however, you can definitely ski down via the Glocknerleitl (40°). The steep entry into the Ködnitzkees (40°) is the last challenge for the skiers. The further descent route is now possible in many different variations.
According to the internationally used five-part difficulty scale by TOPONEIGE (I=easy / II=moderately difficult / III=hard / IV=very hard / V=extremely hard), the ski and alpine requirements of this route are rated as IV.
If you choose the direct descent variant from the Kleinglockner, then IV-V!
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
LucknerhausErzherzog Johann Hütte
Lucknerhütte
Safety information
The approach through the right south gully should be done in the early morning hours; with wet snow cover, there is early avalanche danger! Only enter with stable weather and good conditions; in case of bad weather, the ridge quickly becomes unpleasant! Always observe the avalanche situation carefully!Tips and suggestions
For those who prefer to take it a bit easier, an overnight stay in the Stüdl hut is recommended!
https://www.alpenverein-muenchen-oberland.de/huetten/alpenvereinshuetten/stuedlhuette
Roadbook
From the Lucknerhaus through the Ködnitztal valley to the Luckner hut and further to the Stüdl hut.
From the Stüdl hut northwards onto the Teischnitzkees – always parallel to the Luisengrat ridge and under the Großglockner west face, to the right south gully (Grögerrinne) visible from afar. A bit up the slope with skis, then on foot (45°, crampons & ice tools).
In the fall line of Teufelshorn, slip through a chimney-like gully (short section 50°) and ascend directly into the notch between Teufelshorn and Glocknerhorn. The latter is now climbed directly via a ramp on the sharp ridge (one pitch, no pitons, -III).
After the first summit break, a short and steep firn slope (45°) leads to the start of the upper northwest ridge. The first ridge spike is bypassed on the left or north side; there is also a piton (or a perfect knob) for the first belay. Subsequently, continue quite directly along the ridge line, excellent terrain for placing friends in sizes 0.5 - 2.
The key pitch is reached just before the summit. After a short, slightly exposed traverse, you climb a prominent crack into the approximately 6m high Draschplatte. In the crack, you find good handholds on the right, and slightly to the left, excellent footholds.
The further path leads straightforwardly over block terrain to the summit; before that, you cross a narrow and exposed firn ridge. Now the summit is reached!
Descent is via a ridge heading east (section II) into a notch (here the exit from the Pallavicini gully enters from the north). From this notch, continue further east (fixed ropes) with a short climb and over the ridge spikes of the Kleinglockner (protection poles) onward.
Under good snow conditions, you can ski right next to the normal ascent route (<45° steep) down to the Glocknerleitl; otherwise, descend on foot to that point. From the shoulder at the latest, during winter months you can comfortably ski towards the valley (40°). The remaining descent leads over the, in its upper third quite steep, Ködnitzkees glacier (40°) to the glacier floor above the Stüdl hut.
From here, there are countless variations back to the starting point.
Teufelshorn (3.677 m)
Lucknerhaus
Lucknerhaus
TIPP Alpenpässe Tirol ➤ LEGENDÄR - Großglockner Panoramastraße
Untere Glocknerscharte
Fanatkogel 2905m (Fanotkogel)
Glocknerscharte (untere - 3.596 m)
Grögerschneid (3.660 m)
Stüdlhütte
Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte
Hl. Messe in Bruck
Lucknerhaus
Erzherzog Johann Hütte
Lucknerhütte
Einstieg Stüdlgrat (~3.320 m)
Directions
Easiest by car via Lienz to Kals. From there via a toll road to the Lucknerhaus.Parking
There are plenty of free parking spaces at the parking lots around the Lucknerhaus!Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Normal high alpine ski touring equipment plus avalanche gear, as well as 2 ice screws per person and ice tools for the steep firn ascent.
On the ridge, a few short and long slings are recommended, as well as friends in sizes 0.5 - 2 for securing the route. Four extendable slings and a 40m rope are more than enough for this ridge traverse!
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions