Traunspitzl 2300m
Simple and relatively short climbing on a remote summit of the Loferer Steinberge with an artistic cross and a long approach.
Through the Grieseltal to the Hirschbadsattel and around the south flank of the Traunspitzl into the Fellerer Sand. There to the start of the climbing routes or to the Rotschartl. Via one of the well-protected climbing routes (III°-IV° according to UIAA) or the north ridge (I-II°) to the rather insignificant summit. Descent on the north ridge into the Rotschartl and back through the Fellerer Sand to the starting point.
Author’s recommendation
There are two established easy climbing routes on the Traunspitzl ("Pro Grufti" +III° and "Die Stunde der Wahrheit" -IV°), and the north ridge route +II° from the Rotschartl.
You can also reach the Rotschartl from Lofer via the Schmidt-Zabierow hut.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRest stops
Halser - JausenstationSafety information
Endurance, surefootedness, a head for heights, and climbing skill are required!
Otherwise, usual alpine hazards. Possibly snowfield at the start of the climbing routes.
Tips and suggestions
Topo at:
https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/pro-grufti-traunspitzl/
or
Roadbook
From the snack station on the gravel path to its end in the Grieseltal. A clear but unmarked path begins, which leads along the steep forest slopes of the Grieseltal to the Maierschartl. Now left on the well-visible path over the ridge up to the Hirschbadsattel. You can see the path pulling right around the distinctive Dreispitz into the Fellerer Sand. Now upwards through the scree of the Fellerer Sand, northwards, increasingly steep. On the left rocky side you can easily avoid the annoying loose scree. Soon you see the clearly lighter inclined wall which marks the entrance to the two well-secured easy climbing routes (Die Stunde der Wahrheit -IV° and ProGrufti +III°). If snowfields are obstructive, you can also enter behind it into the inclined east wall (max. II°) (now however without protection bolts, but with more scree). If you struggle steeply up to the late visible Rotschartl, you can also reach the summit via the "normal route" (up to II° and some protection bolts) over the north ridge. From the Rotschartl at the scree slope to the rugged ridge tower, which is bypassed on its steep east flank. Continuing on the well-grip and tiered ridge, a short descent into the narrow summit notch and still some rocky steps up to the summit meadow of the Taunspitzl with the interesting summit cross.
Descent via the Rotschartl along the ascent route.
Traunspitzl
Public transport
By train from St. Johann in Tirol or from Saalfelden to Fieberbrunn. By regional bus 8302 to the Strasserwirt stop. On foot to the starting point.Directions
From St. Johann in Tirol or Saalfelden on the Hochkönigstraße B164 to Fieberbrunn and the Pillerseestraße L2 to Straß. Turn right here and drive through Schwendt to the snack station Grieseltal.
From Lofer on the Lofererstraße B178 to Waidring and the Pillerseestraße L2 to Straß.
Parking
Parking at the snack station Grieseltal.Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Amap
ÖK50 sheet 3214
AV map Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Hiking equipment. Simple climbing gear (55m rope, harness, 5-6 quickdraws, helmet) for the equipped routes.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions