The Gendarmes - Sforniòi Nord - Viàz del Fônch - Eastern Ledges Sforniòi Sud

Introduction

This route was taken on July 24th, 2022, and all subsequent observations and considerations may only apply fully to that day.

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Ascent to Sfornioi Nord with detour to the Gendarmes

From Passo Cibiana follow the signs for Forcella delle Ciavazole or de le Ciavazoles beside the Baita or Tabià Déona.

After an initial stretch of a small road, a long section of wide and easy path follows up to a four-way junction between CAI 483 and 485: from here continue without problems to the "easy side" of Forcella delle Ciavazole or de le Ciavazoles.

From the saddle, turn left initially on a wide track among the dwarf pines, then ascend more directly and turn right to the ridge leading to a Cross at about 2,200 m.

From the Cross the rock mushroom that marks the start and gives the name to the Viàz del Fonch is already visible (although from the less characteristic side).

To reach the summit of Sfornioi Nord continue following the ridge up to the rocky shoulder ahead, then pass to its left.

The path, marked by various cairns and red marks, traverses to an easy rocky step clearly marked by the paint, then continues traversing until bypassing a ridge: just before the bypass is the deviation (also well marked with red marks) to the summit of Sfornioi Nord.

But first, I went to the Gendarmes.

So, I continued on the base path, bypassing the ridge at 90°, and immediately facing Sfornioi di Mezzo and the Gendarmes more to the right.

The path continues passing under the Gendarmes and the base of Sfornioi di Mezzo to a cairn on a "belvedere ledge" from where you can admire the "classic postcard" view of the Gendarmes alongside Sfornioi Nord.

Then return back to the start of the final ascent to Sfornioi Nord, and after the first easy rocks enter the gully where the more difficult moves are found.

There are initial boulders which do not pose problems, and a short final step with easy climbing of grade I with solid holds.

Then the path traverses left on a ledge to a ridge where the cairns guide the ascent of a steep and varied diagonal: sometimes you place your hands for balance but no climbing is required here.

With a final turn to the left, you reach the broad summit with several cairns: today there was also a rudimentary Cross made of two wooden stakes.

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Traversal of Viàz del Fonch from the rock mushroom at the start to Forcella Dantre Sfornioi

To start the Viàz del Fonch you need to return nearly to the "Croce Giovane Montagna di Venezia" at about 2,200 m.

The rock mushroom is about 15 meters lower in altitude and 40 meters horizontally above.

Its mushroom shape is not very noticeable from the marked path.

Guides indicate you start the descent toward the viàz above the mushroom, then begin traversing left: this is a traverse on a slab which can be avoided by starting a little higher at a cairn from where another large cairn is visible further down the viàz slope.

This second entrance is about 10 meters vertical and 25-30 meters linear above the first and once you reach the large cairn below on the slope, to the right you can see the rock mushroom in its "more characteristic version".

I chose the second entrance and after taking a photo of the mushroom, I began traversing left following the cairns.

I read there are two variations for the first part of this viàz: one descends toward a characteristic and very evident tower, and the other stays higher under the rock band.

I followed the higher one because I saw many closely spaced cairns in that direction.

The route starts with an "undulating descent" tendency, almost a dance between small drops and mini alcoves: always attentive but not very difficult.

You arrive at a first more difficult descending jump where entering it you notice the holds and grips are not so bad.

Then you continue longer with several small jumps and alcoves up to the most difficult passage before the final exit ones.

It is a narrow and somewhat twisted vertical notch descending of good grade II with multiple "consecutive moves": above I found three cord loop rings and a sling attached to a wedged rock for a possible short rappel with rope.

Since holds and grips were all clearly visible from above, and the rock was completely dry, I descended without a rope: however, you must be prepared to use one and therefore have it in your backpack.

Below the notch you descend a few meters on an easy stony gully, then bypass to the left the base of a rock spur.

You find the cairns again and begin the easier part of Viàz del Fonch, almost relaxing: almost!

Now there is a wide ledge showing a walking trace next to the rock band which for a long stretch does not enter any annoying alcove like at the start.

Then come two not difficult and close "almost cat steps", which precede the return of a delicate alcove: it is short and entering it you realize by bending your back you follow the narrow trace well.

Immediately after there is a short ramp on easy rocks, and you arrive in view of the final for the gully of Forcella Dantre Sfornioi, with the ledge trace disappearing and reappearing between alcoves connecting some flat spur-promontory protruding from the rock band.

You continue following these "surprise" alcoves (because they are assessed one by one when inside) all without problems except the last which enters the final gully.

This last one, in my opinion, on exit is comparable in difficulty (although very different in type) to the above-mentioned descending notch passage with several full grade II moves.

The entrance is easy but the exit is on a "hard ground with annoying gravel" base above an exposed short wall.

The walking surface (there is no actual formed trace) is slightly inclined but not nice: by holding a little to the rocks (and creating small excavations by repeated foot placements) you pass but it requires attention, and not little.

Here – but I don't know how because I didn't observe well in this specific case – if in a group I recommend considering securing somehow.

Having bypassed the small final promontory, you enter the exit gully from Viàz del Fonch.

Forcella Dantre Sfornioi is a very wide notch jagged by spurs not easy to traverse: the "small saddle" exit and continuation is all to the right in ascent direction.

The two guides offer two different solutions.

In "Dolomiti di Zoldo 61 escursioni fra Pelmo e Civetta" it implicitly recommends staying left because it states at the end you overcome some fragile spurs complicating the notch structure.

In "Wild Dolomiti – I PERCORSI PIÙ SELVAGGI Dolomiti Orientali", instead, it refers only to short grade II jumps but clearly states the pass is close to the rocks on the right.

Anyway, the gully is divided midway at the base by a series of towers-pinnacles and on the right a continuous channel is noticed with (more or less midway) wedged boulders which cannot be passed directly in hiking mode.

After a first jump left, I entered the channel all on the right and reached below the series of wedged boulders.

Here, on the left climbing side, there is a diagonal line (which goes back a bit) on I+ rocks in my opinion, maybe with some single grade II with solid holds.

You climb on a small ridge still below the wedged boulders level and ascend moving left again to find the easiest steps within grade I.

I continued with small left shifts until I saw I was well above the wedged boulders on the right, and I descended a few meters not difficult on scree inside a secondary gully to get back above the boulders.

From here a few dozen linear meters of "moderate scrambling" without other jumps and I reached the proper pass point of Forcella Dantre Sfornioi and the end of Viàz del Fonch.

I did not see any cairn or other signs in the whole gully.

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From Forcella Dantre Sfornioi to the east gully of Forcella del Matt along the Eastern Ledges of Sfornioi Sud

From the Forcella Dantre Sfornioi pass, descend east over scree: there are few lines with deep loose scree and one must hold back a little, but there are certainly no problems.

Where the scree falls away, on the right begins a wide scree bench that curves around the end of the rock band, and you must climb on it following cairns.

Soon after turning the corner of the gully exit, a stretch starts that I really liked.

It is a long descending diagonal with characteristic stretches "almost in a trench", cornices and never difficult jumps, mini saddles and "rocky depressions".

Lots of variety and little difficulty compared to Viàz del Fonch.

At the end of the long descent there couldn't be missing a couple of low passages under overhanging rocks, and with a short ascent on grass you reach the small Forcella di Col Alto: the view backward on the descent just made is spectacular.

From Forcella di Col Alto descend a few meters on grass opposite, then contour right into the dwarf pines near a low rock band.

Immediately you reach a small descending jump section leading to cross a wide gully (always watch cairns) and you end on a trace through the grass on the other side that soon becomes a good path among the cuts in the dwarf pines.

Following this easy path you arrive inside the east gully of Forcella del Matt.

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Closure of the loop ascending to Forcella del Matt and then returning to Forcella delle Ciavazole or de le Ciavazoles

The ascent to Forcella del Matt from the east side is tough (but the next one… tougher).

There are red marks which after a first stretch head left uphill (the path enters from the right), but there are other short discontinuous lines with almost consolidated stones or emerging grass that help.

However, it is all very discontinuous and it is never convenient on these gullies to traverse too much from one side to the other, as it is always annoying.

At the start I stayed more to the right of the red marks and then reached them.

Everyone makes their own choices, always carefully observing the ground even at medium distance to avoid unnecessary efforts.

You reach with a few final cairns the pass sign which is all shifted to the left, while the descent signs on the west side are towards the right wall.

Then traverse initially right and descend "slowly" the high narrowing: then the trace becomes almost comfortable always to the right where the gully widens greatly.

You reach the end of the rock band and, always following the red marks, descend again a stretch among wide scree-stones cutting a band of dwarf pines.

Thus you intercept path CAI 482 (no sign) which you follow right for an initial wide track among the dwarf pines.

This is the direction leading to the base of the south gully of Forcella delle Ciavazole or de le Ciavazoles.

It is useless to describe this long return traverse: it is long, and very varied as to walking surface and ups and downs.

I found the trace always evident except a few slightly landslid meters crossing a very wide gently sloping scree basin, exactly at a triangular signpost of Alta Via no. 3.

Finally, you reach a sign indicating «Al Cronf 1789 m» (with other CAI arrow signs) marking the start of the ascent to Forcella delle Ciavazole or de le Ciavazoles from the south.

Doing the math, it is 205 meters of truly tough elevation gain.

The CAI time indicated on the signs is 50 minutes, which is a lot for 200 meters of elevation, but… you have to try.

It is unthinkable to cross this gully from one side to the other: in my opinion, you cannot stand in the middle and it would be dangerous.

The signs are all painted on the right from the entrance side, and I was always "in contact" with the right wall, pushing with a pole on the left and pulling up with the right arm using the small but solid holds that the wall almost always offers.

It is not really very steep, on the contrary: but the ground offers no grip unless you lean on something.

A little above halfway there is a cord attached to the wall that helps for about twenty meters of elevation gain, and then there are another couple of short sections near the exit.

It can be done calmly.

I would have no problem doing this gully again uphill, but to do it down I have to think carefully.

End of the big loop that "rides" over the main saddles of the Sfornioi accessible from a hiking point of view.