Multiple ascents lead to the entrance of the via ferrata on the south flank of Spitzenstein:
1.) From Abfaltersbach via a long forest road and the wooded cirque to Folmasaisattel.
2.) From Obertilliach with the cable car to Connyalm and along the Gailtaler Höhenweg around Golzentipp to the south to Folmasaisattel.
3.) From Obertilliach via Gripp and Planegg to Folmasaisattel.
4.) From Leiten-Ebene via Dorfberg to Folmasaisattel (our route!).
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Freedom from dizziness, sure-footedness, and climbing skills are necessary!Tips and suggestions
No opportunities to eat out during the route.Roadbook
Before the last curve of Eben, the marked path to Dorfberg begins. A narrow hollow path leads diagonally right up to the forest road. We want to cross Dorfberg, so we leave it at the bend to the left and cross on a pull path to the forest road coming up from Kartischsattel. We follow this until after two bends the hiking path to Dorfberg branches off to the left. Along the edge of the forest past an alpine meadow, we reach the broad west ridge and over this to the spacious summit dome of Dorfberg with a cross and a resting bench. We now hike along the Gailtaler Höhenweg first downhill and south around a ridge peak, then ascending again to Planegg (a few meters off-trail). Here we turn left and descend the broad ridge northwards down to Folmasaisattel. A clear path leads right through the steep meadow to the rock base of Spitzenstein. Behind a tower-like projection is the entrance to the via ferrata at the start of a scree gully.
After a few rocky meters, a large chockstone blocks the gully. The obstacle is overcome with a safety rope on the right, vertical wall with clamps. Above this, you go up the gorge on steep fine scree. Over finely tiered rock, we leave it secured by rope to the right, a few rocky steps lead to a very steep grassy ramp. This is overcome with a safety rope along the rock base on a deeply incised, earthy-rocky and well-tiered small path to a shallow saddle on the southeast ridge. We first follow this on walking terrain, then secured by rope increasingly steeply up to the south summit (unadorned highest point of Spitzenstein). Up to the north summit with the cross, ten meters lower, you continue along the rugged connecting ridge over two more ridge knobs and the associated notches, often quite exposed. Short walking sections alternate with rope-secured, notch-near rocky steps. From the last notch, a continuous rope leads directly up well-tiered rock to the summit cross.
Return to Folmasaisattel along the ascent. We now cross Planegg on the west flank and hike down southwards from the hollow in front of Dorfberg along the broad alpine basin to the forest edge. The following forest path skims the forest road several times and brings us back to the starting point.
Spitzenstein
Directions
On the Drautalstraße B100 (from Sillian or Lienz) to Tassenbach, here turn onto Gailtalstraße B111 and drive over Kartitschsattel to Leiten. 100 meters before, a paved road leads left up to the hamlets of Eben.Parking
No designated parking spaces – ask for parking permission beside the road!Coordinates
Author’s map recommendations
Amap
ÖK50 sheet 195/196 or 3108
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Hiking equipment, helmet, optionally via ferrata setLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions