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Mountain Hike recommended route Mountain Hike  · Gailtal Alps

Spitzenstein via Dorfberg

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Alpenverein Braunau Verified partner 
  • Spitzenstein from Golzentipp
    Spitzenstein from Golzentipp
    Photo: Wolfgang Lauschensky, Alpenverein Braunau

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    Spitzenstein is the westernmost rock formation of the Lienz Dolomites. It can only be climbed via a secured path (via ferrata AB) that also must be descended this way.
    difficult
    Distance 13.7 km
    5:30 h
    1,000 m
    1,000 m
    2,275 m
    1,547 m

    Multiple ascents lead to the entrance of the via ferrata on the south flank of Spitzenstein:

    1.) From Abfaltersbach via a long forest road and the wooded cirque to Folmasaisattel.

    2.) From Obertilliach with the cable car to Connyalm and along the Gailtaler Höhenweg around Golzentipp to the south to Folmasaisattel.

    3.) From Obertilliach via Gripp and Planegg to Folmasaisattel.

    4.) From Leiten-Ebene via Dorfberg to Folmasaisattel (our route!).

    Author’s recommendation

    In my assessment, the climbing setup is between a secured path and a via ferrata AB. For the experienced climber, a via ferrata set is therefore not necessarily needed; however, due to the frequent exposure and surface instability, it is reassuring!
    Difficulty
    T5A/B difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    Spitzenstein, 2,275 m
    Lowest point
    Eben at Kartitschsattel, 1,547 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW

    Track types

    Asphalt 0.63%Dirt road 12.67%Forested/wild trail 3.79%Path 73.28%Unknown 9.62%
    Asphalt
    87 m
    Dirt road
    1.7 km
    Forested/wild trail
    520 m
    Path
    10.1 km
    Unknown
    1.3 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Freedom from dizziness, sure-footedness, and climbing skills are necessary!

    Tips and suggestions

    No opportunities to eat out during the route.

    Roadbook

    Before the last curve of Eben, the marked path to Dorfberg begins. A narrow hollow path leads diagonally right up to the forest road. We want to cross Dorfberg, so we leave it at the bend to the left and cross on a pull path to the forest road coming up from Kartischsattel. We follow this until after two bends the hiking path to Dorfberg branches off to the left. Along the edge of the forest past an alpine meadow, we reach the broad west ridge and over this to the spacious summit dome of Dorfberg with a cross and a resting bench. We now hike along the Gailtaler Höhenweg first downhill and south around a ridge peak, then ascending again to Planegg (a few meters off-trail). Here we turn left and descend the broad ridge northwards down to Folmasaisattel. A clear path leads right through the steep meadow to the rock base of Spitzenstein. Behind a tower-like projection is the entrance to the via ferrata at the start of a scree gully.

    After a few rocky meters, a large chockstone blocks the gully. The obstacle is overcome with a safety rope on the right, vertical wall with clamps. Above this, you go up the gorge on steep fine scree. Over finely tiered rock, we leave it secured by rope to the right, a few rocky steps lead to a very steep grassy ramp. This is overcome with a safety rope along the rock base on a deeply incised, earthy-rocky and well-tiered small path to a shallow saddle on the southeast ridge. We first follow this on walking terrain, then secured by rope increasingly steeply up to the south summit (unadorned highest point of Spitzenstein). Up to the north summit with the cross, ten meters lower, you continue along the rugged connecting ridge over two more ridge knobs and the associated notches, often quite exposed. Short walking sections alternate with rope-secured, notch-near rocky steps. From the last notch, a continuous rope leads directly up well-tiered rock to the summit cross.

    Return to Folmasaisattel along the ascent. We now cross Planegg on the west flank and hike down southwards from the hollow in front of Dorfberg along the broad alpine basin to the forest edge. The following forest path skims the forest road several times and brings us back to the starting point.

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    Dorfberg
    Spitzenstein

    Directions

    On the Drautalstraße B100 (from Sillian or Lienz) to Tassenbach, here turn onto Gailtalstraße B111 and drive over Kartitschsattel to Leiten. 100 meters before, a paved road leads left up to the hamlets of Eben.

    Parking

    No designated parking spaces – ask for parking permission beside the road!

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.717314, 12.563184
    DMS
    46°43'02.3"N 12°33'47.5"E
    UTM
    33T 313767 5176634
    w3w 
    ///dodged.arduous.pirate
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Author’s map recommendations

    Amap

    ÖK50 sheet 195/196 or 3108

    Recommended maps for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    Hiking equipment, helmet, optionally via ferrata set

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    T5A/B difficult
    Overall difficulty
    difficult

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    13.7 km
    Duration
    5:30 h
    Ascent
    1,000 m
    Descent
    1,000 m
    Highest point
    2,275 m
    Lowest point
    1,547 m
    Out and back Round trip Scenic Summit route Exposed sections Secured passages Scrambling required Ridge

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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