Severino Casara Ledge and Hans Dülfer Ledge from Val Campo di Dentro

Introduction

This route was traveled on September 13, 2020, and all subsequent observations and considerations fully apply only to that day.

↓

Approach to the start of the Severino Casara Ledge

Upon arrival at the Tre Scarperi Hut, continue along path CAI 105 to the junction with CAI 8, then ascend along the latter towards the Forcella dei Baranci.

Soon after exiting the forest, pass beneath the valley that separates Cima Piatta Bassa from Cima Piatta di Mezzo and clearly see the Forcella delle Cime Piatte, which must be reached after traversing the Casara Ledge.

Already from here, the line of the ledge begins to appear, and you continue to a group of large boulders located to the left of the path, including one with an unusually smooth face: atop this boulder is a small cairn, also a faint red mark on an upper edge and a wooden plank serving as a bench on the opposite side of the smooth face.

From this point, exit the CAI trail and cross towards the very evident start of the Casara Ledge which is at roughly the same elevation – on the way I saw a couple of cairns but do not exclude the presence of others.

↓

Traversal of the Severino Casara Ledge

The ledge starts on a very wide bench with a cairn below on a narrow walking path near the edge – obviously, you can also start a few meters up from below the rock band.

Since it seemed like a calm start, I started from below where normally below the rock band is more comfortable and safer.

Indeed, there are two or three slightly slippery steps near the edge, then you naturally progress close to the wall rocks.

The walking trace is always sufficiently clear and becomes very evident when the bench narrows.

You reach a series of ledges and then a corner with a cairn where the ledge ends, without real difficulties.

↓

Transfer from the end of the Severino Casara Ledge to the start of the Hans Dülfer Ledge passing through Forcella delle Cime Piatte or Ebenschartl

Here, attention is needed for orientation even though cairns are present where necessary.

After bypassing the corner at the end of Casara Ledge, start walking along a corridor of sparse dwarf pines and find the first cairn at the beginning of the traverse-descent to reach the bottom of the valley basin.

The dwarf pines soon end and then descend a steep ramp of small rocks slightly covered by gravel but quite manageable.

Continue traversing a scree slope following the cairns leading to the bottom of the basin near the steep rock band on the opposite side.

Ascend a few meters at the bottom of the valley and find a cairn on the left at the start of a stepped passage that overcomes the first meters of the rock band closing the valley.

Then ascend grassy terrain towards the right to just below the steeper drop.

Here, a little to the right of the "back" of the small grassy ascent, there are solid ledges traversed for 3-4 meters, then you ascend a few meters of solid rock at grade I or I+.

The various guides suggest that there is more than one solution and this is noticeable.

I reached a small grassy terrace with a pair of cairns indicating to proceed left on an easy diagonal.

From here, reach a very comfortable grassy bench leading right to the center of the valley from which ascend to another low rock band avoided on the right by a grassy slope.

Immediately after is the Forcella delle Cime Piatte: it is advisable to take a few steps beyond the cairn of the pass and look down-left over the Toàl Erto valley, as you can clearly see the next target, the Hans Dülfer Ledge.

To continue, ascend from the pass cairn for 20 meters of elevation gain along the easy ridge of Cima Piatta Bassa.

After the 20 meters, on the right you notice the start of a mixed grass-rock bench interrupting the verticality of the wall and descending toward a ledge.

The ledge descends beneath overhanging rocks which end where the path begins to ascend: here, another ledge-like path branches off continuing the descent to a large grassy plateau.

From the plateau, execute a semicircle initially to the right until intercepting path CAI 9 of Toàl Erto.

Shortly before joining CAI 9, stop and look toward the continuation of the wide track on the left hydrological side of the valley.

You will certainly notice that CAI 9 passes next to large boulders, one nearly perfectly pyramid-shaped.

On the opposite side of the basin is a lump spotted with green that rises slightly from the scree, marked by some chamois tracks – beyond the lump is a very faint chamois track cutting diagonally across the long scree slope.

So, exit CAI 9 just before the large pyramid-shaped boulder, pass the grassy lump and take the next chamois track, which is unstable for the first meters but then easy to follow.

Traverse a long and flat stretch on the scree just below the start of the Dülfer Ledge, which lies 100 meters of elevation above.

But – FORTUNATELY! – right at the start of the ascent there are dense grasses stabilizing the steep and otherwise unstable scree.

It is steep but you climb on small scoops and little footholds without slipping, reaching the start of the ledge with a short traverse of a few meters.

↓

Traversal of the Hans Dülfer Ledge

The ledge begins on a wide scree bench and it is immediately apparent that it continues like this for a long way.

However, width can be misleading: it is not an extreme ledge but is less easy than it seems at first glance.

To proceed safely, many micro-adjustments of line are needed on numerous short passages coming after a few meters of almost relaxed walking.

Often from the path below the rock band, a slightly protruding rock or something else forces you to descend slightly onto an initially good path that ends on an annoying inclined stretch of hardened scree, difficult to manage even with excellent footwear.

Here, do not insist but look further up (to the right given the direction of travel) and check if it is better to ascend and possibly bypass a recess in the wall covering more meters but with greater safety: many similar situations exist.

The small rocks to balance on with your hands are generally good, but some come loose.

After about 250 meters in a straight line from the start, to follow the wall there is a continuous ascent of about 35 meters of elevation gain.

Then, the bench narrows moderately and you reach a grassy pulpit detached from the wall: this is the possible early exit point from the ledge.

Closer inspection reveals a large cairn above the pulpit, and further on, you see grassy terraces descending outward.

Here, the ledge narrows if you stay close to the wall, then you ascend some small rocks to rise a few meters and follow the next rise of the base wall.

You can also descend a few meters toward the possible exit pulpit and then re-ascend onto a scree basin.

From here begins the most spectacular section both in view, because the Three Peaks of Lavaredo appear, and in technique, as you proceed on ledges above deeper drops and beneath walls with sharper yellow-black contrasting colors.

You reach a pillar-gendarme slightly detached from the wall, round the corner, and start the last wider bench still with various points requiring line adjustments: it is not fast.

With a final steeper ascending section, you reach the small saddle marking the end of the ledge indicated by the inevitable cairn.

Throughout the route there are various ledges of all shapes, sizes, and colors.

There are various channels and recesses to cross with "delicacy".

From start to finish it is about 1.2 km, but the ledge makes an arc with a "belly" toward the east with many recesses to follow, corners to go around, etc.

Therefore, the walking length is well beyond the straight-line distance.

↓

Return from the end of the Hans Dülfer Ledge

After the small saddle marking the end of the Dülfer Ledge is a chute (initially narrow) bending down to the left.

A second cairn directs the first meters and then directly down the steep slope.

After a few small drops not difficult and covered with gravel, I found a scree stretch and then a short section of VERY ANNOYING hardened scree with no quick bypass seen.

After this short hardened scree (almost cemented kind that hurts if you slip) you exit the narrow part and enter a real scree slope.

Initially, you must choose the best gravel streaks which are well visible, and in the central part is a spectacular section with fine gravel reaching mid-shin – and patience if you have to empty your shoes afterward.

Toward the end below is a thin layer of larger stones that you continue descending easily.

Along the way you cross the chamois track connecting Passo Grande dei Rondoi with grassy terraces allowing an early exit from the Dülfer Ledge (or ascent for travel in the opposite direction).

You join path CAI 10 a little below Passo Grande dei Rondoi and from there relax completely on the return.