E1: Kraichgau from Pforzheim to Heidelberg

At the main train station, I take the pedestrian tunnel to the north side. Here at the tunnel exit, I also find the first marking of the E1, a white St. Andrew's cross on a black background of the Odenwald Club. E 1 is also written there. I now follow the road along the railway line westwards and then soon upwards along residential houses. Above a staircase, I reach a country road, which I follow out of town along the cemetery at an altitude of 340 m. After a roundabout, the accompanying bike path ends and I enter the roadway. According to my plan, I should soon turn right onto other paths to reach Ispringen parallel to the country road, but I reject such thoughts. I ride quickly down the road under the upcoming A 8. Finally, the opportunity arises to turn into the town by a street. Here I follow a road that runs parallel to the country road and soon discover another marking again.

Finally, I follow the marking behind a church on the right and cross a country road here. In the following residential area, it goes uphill into the forest. The marking and my plan clearly indicate the forest path called Saupfützenweg. I follow it leisurely through the small wood; it still has some very old pavement and shortly afterward I ride on asphalt through meadows and orchards. I think I have now left the urban areas around Pforzheim behind me.

Shortly behind the small Wendelinus chapel, I then turn right. The path now takes me quickly downhill into the lovely Gennenbachtal, where the asphalt ends. Here I ride downhill on a beautiful forest path following the stream through a pleasantly fresh deciduous forest. The marking has now changed to a green St. Andrew's cross, as it is newly intended for the Odenwald section of the E 1.

Eventually, I reach the town of Stein, where I initially pass the Wiesenmühle and follow the marking here. When crossing the main road through town, I briefly do not pay attention to the marking, partly because I want to leave the current route of the E 1 in this town. Up to Östringen, it follows a different route than indicated in my old hiking guide. I follow a street to the marketplace along beautiful half-timbered houses and then start walking a northbound street uphill past the Stephanus church. When I reach the outskirts of town, I switch to a farm path alongside the road on the left. Then I am surprised. Ahead lie a farm and a hilly field; on the right, it goes into the valley. According to the map, it should actually be the other way around. Then I realize that I am on the wrong side along the church. That happens when you travel on unmarked routes. I briefly orient myself on the map and then decide to follow the farm path to a country road. Over the hill and through a hollow, I reach the country road, which I follow north on an adjacent farm path. After a while, I switch to the left side to the adjacent path there.

At the end, I reach a crossroads where it goes right to Bretten, where the E 1 now runs. I immediately turn left into the forest along a ditch and soon reach a beautiful forest path marked with a blue dot. Now I should be back on my planned route. The path is called Oberer Staffelweg and later Kutscherweg and Steiner Weg according to the wooden signs. I roll through the fresh deciduous forest with slight ups and downs. I really enjoy the scent of the leaves after days of monotonous coniferous forests in the Black Forest. Finally, I go through orchards toward the next town, Wössingen. I follow exactly my map route through the local streets, supported by the blue marking. I then reach the main road through town, cross it, and see an open bakery.

Finally, I follow the street and then turn to the designated S-Bahn station. The street passes under the tracks, the town ends, and I ride over the B 293. The path climbs to a forest; the first vineyards are visible. Due to its sunny location, the Kraichgau is said to have many of these vineyards. Along the forest edge, I can discover more vineyards before the next wooded hill. The blue dot continues to show me the way. The forest there is already larger than the last; Judenweg is written on the wide forest path. In addition to the blue dot, I also find a yellow and a red diamond. However, it is not clear whether these are local or regional markings. Finally, I ride with a beautiful view on a wide gravel path at the left edge of the forest and soon cross a street. Then I ride into the forest because the path gets worse. Here, right in the middle, is a perfectly straight beautiful forest path. Soon another blue dot and a yellow triangle appear as markings.

The only remaining narrow forest strip, called Forlenwald, ends, and I walk along a field edge toward the next forest edge. At this edge, I push my bike further along the field until a path comes over the fields, and I can roll down to a country road with it. Opposite, a beautiful forest path continues through the forest. At a fork, a path leads right uphill, and finally, I stand at the forest edge. A field path leads me north along it. At the end of the forest, I leave the path to follow a parallel path further north. I no longer notice any markings but follow my planned route.

Through the following forest, I can ride fast and soon reach the next country road over the fields. I want to cross it, but on the other side, only a staircase leads up the roadside ditch, and it is also cordoned off with barrier tape. I struggle to get the bike up the ditch next to the stairs at an angle and find that the path straight ahead is also blocked. For lack of alternatives, I bypass the barrier and ride on the path toward the upcoming forest. I think the reason for the barrier won't be too bad. I quickly pass through the small wood and reach the cause of the path closure. Ahead of me, the entire path is dug up, as if a new motorway entrance was being built here. I bypass the construction site as best as I can and then follow the path uphill past a farmyard. Further up, I reach another farm complex; on the right is a golf course area. Also, a new marking has appeared, a blue W. According to the signs, this stands for the Kraichgau Wine Path.

I follow the small road along the farm complexes and thus ride toward Bruchsal. With a street-side bike path, it goes over the bypass road (B 35) and then along a residential area. The street ends at another street; far below runs a railway line. On the right, the two towers of the Peterskirche rise from the green. I cross the railway line by a bridge and ride directly toward the city center. According to the plan, I did not want to enter the city center, but due to a possible break, I ride to the marketplace. I want to explore the sandstone city church, but heavy organ music sounds inside, and there seems to be an event. Therefore, I just find a seat in front of an open café. So far, the Kraichgau has shown itself to me as a simple, hilly landscape with forests and fields, with only isolated vineyards and fruit trees visible. Will this change decisively in the second half of the day? Otherwise, I mark today as a transfer to the hopefully more exciting Odenwald.

According to the signs, the tourist information is on the left at the Old Castle. So I head in that direction but find only a closed tourist information office. I just continue in that direction, cross a larger road, and climb eastwards on the next street. Then I have already reached my planned route and pass the Paulusheim, a kind of senior home. Along it, I follow the road northwards, climbing more and more. Finally, a residential street called "Alter Unteröwisheimer Weg" branches off to the right, and I take it. Unteröwisheim is my next targeted town. However, near the last houses I realize that this cannot be my route. The street becomes a narrow agricultural path. I keep left and switch to the parallel "Neuen Unteröwisheimer Weg" running along a field. This also runs as a narrow asphalted farm path but is surrounded by high embankments. Could this be one of those Kraichgau hollow ways? In summer heat, it must be wonderful to walk and ride here under the cool, shady canopy of the embankment planting.

Climbing a small hill soon, I ride always eastwards in the best visibility. On the right, I can see the course of the "Alter Unteröwisheimer Weg." On this, I would probably have missed the feeling of riding in a hollow way. I pass a small garden plot where a yellow-red Baden flag welcomes me on a mast. Hardly have I passed a crossroads at a farm on the heights when I go downhill again into a hollow way. Since the ground is still asphalted, the hollow way probably will not deepen further, but it is much more impressive than the one just passed. I slowly understand why my hiking guide highlights these hollow ways. Steep cut edges rise on both sides of the path about two meters high. Due to the vegetation, it gets a bit darker down here. So the day still waits with an unexpected highlight.

At the end of the hollow way, I turn right onto a country road that leads me in arcs uphill again. I pass the Gemerich fountain and also find a marking of the Drei-Quellen-Weg, probably a local circular route. On the unpaved country road, I now roll into the Denzental into the next hollow way, which seems even more impressive. The cut edges on the sides are now probably three meters high or more. I finally roll into Unteröwisheim and here to the Kreuzkirche at the main road through town. I only cross it and pass an ice cream café, then follow a street to the S-Bahn station. I cross the tracks and the Kraichbach, then follow an asphalted small road on the left side of the Brückberg into the next hollow way. It seems to me that the towns here always lie in hollows and can be reached via hollow ways. When I was briefly riding on the heights earlier, I could see far and had no towns in sight, even though Unteröwisheim lay directly in front of me.

So I climb back to the heights with the small road, where the vineyards stretch. On the right is a walnut plantation, and signs prohibit collecting the nuts. Behind me, I have a view of the recently passed town. The small road stretches higher and higher between vineyards and fruit trees. I pass through a small wood and then see the next town in front of me, the wine town Zeutern. The small road leads downhill there, but on the left, there is a narrow path leading through an immense hollow way again. I cannot resist and follow the marking of the wine path there. I had not noticed this marking since Bruchsal.

In Zeutern, I roll down to the main road through town and turn left from there, direction Östringen indicated. There I want to meet the current E 1 again. At the end of the town, I leave the road to the right to turn onto asphalt into the next huge hollow way. It is slowly becoming real fun to ride between meter-high cut edges. And I would not be surprised if the constant ups and downs bring quite a few altitude meters at the end of the day. After two right-angle turns, I am between the vineyards at the height of the Hohberg and reach a small road there at 217 m altitude with the wine path. This then leads me north past a farm complex.

With a country road, I head to a woodland in front of me and pass through it to the previously left country road to Östringen. A more or less roadside bike path finally brings me into town. Through the residential streets, I now head to the town center and find an open café near the Cäcilienkirche. I also look inside the surprisingly huge sandstone church but find no pilgrim stamp there. In front of the church, also called Kraichgaudom, I had already seen the green cross of the E 1 on a lamppost. I circle the church and ride through the small streets to Rettigheimer Straße. With this, I roll to the northern town limit. Here I follow my planned route along the edge of town and then into the forest. A proper forest path leads me northeast through it. I notice no markings but enjoy beautiful oaks and beeches. E 1 nowadays takes a slightly different route to the following Mühlhausen. I cross the Krummbach, and the path becomes a climbing trail. With this, I finally get onto a perfectly straight forest path, which I follow up to a country road.

Since on the opposite side of the road no path leads into the forest as it should on the map, I simply follow the roadside bike path, thus bypassing the 245 m high Schlehberg with its Celtic barrows. It goes quickly over the B 39 and into Mühlhausen. Finally, I reach the main road through town. I should be back on my planned route. I finally search for the road leading north out of town. I cross a stream and start climbing the road. Even this connection road runs over an old hollow way. E 1 apparently climbs around somehow on the left slope through vineyards, but without venturing far away. Therefore, I stay on the road, which rises steeply at about 25%.

I also stay on the height of the 246 m high Withau, which offers me broad views, on the road. Both left and right of the road run more or less accompanying paths. I can also often spot the marking of the E 1. Unlike the road, the paths follow every terrain shape. Finally, I reach a farm complex, the Windhof, where I leave the road and follow a farm path. I turn left again and ride toward a forest. A path then takes me right to the forest edge. I finally follow a good forest path into the forest on the ridge of the 252 m high Wallenberg. For quite a while, it goes along the ridge path, then the path leads downhill in various bends, and I pass under the A 6 in a tunnel.

The green St. Andrew’s crosses are now regularly visible. Shortly before the forest edge, the marking points right again into the forest uphill. Since I am just riding nicely and also bike path signs point straight ahead, I stay on the good path and now roll along the forest edge. I cross the Leimbach. A road ahead is audible; I stay at the forest edge. Finally, the E 1 crosses my path. A bike path sign points to the nearby Unterhof. I follow the signpost, cross the already heard country road, and follow a road through Unterhof. After the town ends, I turn left onto a path that leads me uphill into the forest. Here I take a perfectly straight path heading north. It is marked with the green St. Andrew’s cross as well as a yellow diamond. Soon the path runs along the forest edge, and I have a wonderful view of the hilly Kraichgau landscape. The path leads over fields toward the next wood, and I make good progress with slight ups and downs. In the next wood, the marking briefly points inside.

Further, it goes along the forest edge toward a country road. I cross it and roll on a field edge path exactly toward a huge goose farm. Fluffy feathers fly everywhere, and the quacking is deafening. Upon arriving at the farm buildings, I veer right uphill and see the first exemplary standardized signpost of the Odenwald Club. From now on, I will find many of these new signposts. I am here at the Kramerhof at 228 m. Now I continue north over the wide fields toward Gauangelloch, which is still 3 km away. I quickly leave this distance and a 237 m high hill behind and ride along the outskirts of town. Previously, I crossed a country road with a bridge. At the end, the path leads past a sports field into the forest. At a tree, I find one of the rarer European signs for the path with the inscription "European long-distance path 1 North Sea-Lake Constance-Gotthard-Mediterranean." In the forest, I follow the marking and then come onto an orchard meadow. On a bumpy meadow path, I then climb into the next town, Gaiberg. Here, right at the first houses, I find an information box with map excerpts and all conceivable markings of the E 1. A "guest book" lies in the box, in which I also immortalize myself. I also read some entries and find that someone walks this path quite regularly.

I continue to the country road and follow it to the main crossing in town beside a church. Here the country road turns right; I head straight into a residential street and then left following my planned route. I now follow this to the northern outskirts of town. Here at the Bärenbrunnen, hiking trails begin into the forest. The St. Andrew’s cross of the E 1 is also visible, and I follow the good forest path uphill. It goes up in a large curve, ignoring diverging paths; then the E 1 diverges onto a trail. However, this only shortens the way; I follow it to the next intersection and then ascend sharply to the right. Shortly afterward, I see the trail again. Now it goes continuously uphill to the Stephanshütte at a crossroads with many paths and a sandstone block as a signpost. A path crossing here from east to west is called Oberer Sandweg.

I continue uphill to Zwerrenberg. Large contiguous forest areas, like this one with venerable oaks and beeches, have not been part of my day's route so far. At the next crossroads, the green St. Andrew's cross points straight ahead into a leaf-covered path, where I have to dodge some branches. So I carefully bounce slightly downhill. After a short time, I reach a proper forest path again, which goes further downhill; then the marking points again to a path, and this one uphill. A quick look at the map is enough, and I stay on the forest path, rolling with it to a road. The E 1 shortly meets this road and then disappears right into the thicket again. I stay on asphalt and follow the long curve of the road. At a hiking car park, I then turn back into the forest. The Kraussteinweg takes me almost level onto the Krausstein itself, with a crossroads of many paths. Stone blocks again serve as signposts here.

I now follow the green St. Andrew's cross again toward Hohler Kästenbaum almost level along terrain strewn with boulders. The Hohle Kästenbaum is a larger place with a shelter, seating, and a fountain below the 489 m high Auerhahnenkopf. According to the map, it now goes almost only steeply down into the Neckar valley. According to the map, the planned route is mainly on steep descending paths. Actually, I don’t feel like losing the roughly 300 m in walking. I look for a route on the map that allows me to manage it calmly while riding. I initially follow the E 1, but when it turns left onto a steep downhill path, I stay on my forest path and pass below the Auerhahnkopf at about 450 m, the highest point of the day.

I roll, and at the next fork of a left-downhill path, I take it. This Steineichenweg takes me quickly downhill, crossing the E 1, and the sight of the steep crossing path confirms my choice. I soon reach an asphalt path that takes me north downhill. At the stone Aukopfhütte, I stop and meet the E 1 again. The Neckar valley already lies below, which I can now hear and see. The E 1 now points right, although all reasonable paths in that direction run level or slightly uphill. I cannot quickly find a way leading down.

I follow the left downward path and at the next fork continue downhill. I think I have déjà vu, constantly braking again and again. My wrists feel it. Finally, a hairpin curve follows, then another one, and then I reach a hiking car park. I roll downhill on an asphalt road, pay attention to one-way street signs, and pass the Schlierbach Berg church. Shortly before the railway, I make a sharp turn and continue rolling through the town alleys until I find a street passing under the railway line. I cross the B 37 running along the Neckar and stand on the Neckar bike path. Heidelberg center is indicated a few kilometers west. I had already read that the two towns Schlierbach and Ziegelhausen on the other bank are districts of Heidelberg.

I ride east toward the Neckar bridge and enter it at the ascent at the Schlierbach S-Bahn station. Almost completely calm lies the water surface of the slowly flowing Neckar before me in the evening sun. Now the next low mountain range is within reach. Past the holy Christophorus, I can directly see the green St. Andrew's cross and a European sign of the E 1 again on the other side on a lamppost. I follow the road on the left into the town center.