Sacile

We start our route in Kötschach-Mauthen, the "Delicious Corner of Carinthia" and the center of the world's first Slow Food Travel Region, known for Gailtaler alpine cheese and the cheese festival in September. Or through Herwig Ertl, the region's gourmet ambassador, who runs his noble grocery store here. Other gourmet producers, such as the coffee roastery San Giusto or the Matitz bakery, with specialties like the Loncium baguette with malt from the local Loncium private brewery or the corn baguette made from the white Gailtaler corn by Sepp Brandstätter, are working here. Through the wide Gail valley, which can boast another specialty, the Gailtaler Speck g.g.A., we travel through idyllic villages to Tröpolach. Here we turn towards Nassfeld, the well-known hiking and winter sports area on the border with Italy. Over some smooth curves we ride on the well-built Nassfeld road to the pass of the same name at 1,530 m above sea level. The road was built in World War I for artillery transport because it was unfortunately not always peaceful here: Nassfeld was part of the fiercely contested Carnic mountain front. At the open-air museum "Parco Tematico della Grande Guerra Bombaschgraben" on the Italian side, you can visit positions from that time. The somewhat bumpy road leads curvy downhill to Friuli, with the 220 m long unlit tunnel with a 180-degree curve being something special. We arrive at Pontebba-Pontafel, where the border between Austria and Italy used to run – noted on the old myriameter stone.

ALWAYS ALONG THE RIVER

Via Dogna we proceed to Chiusaforte, which has had an important strategic control function on the old trade route to the north since ancient times, as the fortress reminds. On the SS13 we follow the river Fella through the Val Canale (Canal valley) via Resiutta to Carnia, where the Fella flows into the Tagliamento. We reach the Val Ferro (Iron valley) and Venzone, a beautiful medieval town surrounded by an old city wall with a moat. Venzone was almost completely destroyed in the terrible 1976 earthquake but was rebuilt true to the original by old photos and has meanwhile been declared a national monument. We leave the mountains behind and arrive in the fertile Friulian lowlands. Along the wide riverbed of the Tagliamento we pass Gemona and Majano continuing by country road to San Daniele del Friuli.

ENJOYMENT ON ALL FRONTS

Here the world-famous air-dried Prosciutto di San Daniele is produced. Over 2.7 million pig legs – only from Italy – are processed annually in the consortium’s member companies according to strict guidelines. You can taste it directly at one of the prosciutto factories in the plains or high up in the beautiful old town. Tip: the traditional ham festival at the end of June. Fortified, we continue to our destination – Sacile. A charming little town on the border with Veneto, shaped by the river Livenza and therefore called "Little Venice." Along its romantic canals lie old palaces but also trendy venues inviting to linger. Sacile gained some fame through football star Lionel Messi, who regularly visits his "personal doctor" Dr. Poser here. After the doctor’s appointment, Messi heads to his favorite place, "Porca l’Oca." Not exactly cheap, this gourmet temple is run by Aldo, who also operates a cozy Osteria right across the street where typical Friulian treats like Frico as well as various grilled dishes can be enjoyed at reasonable prices.

OLD CRAFTSMANSHIP, NEW LAKES

We now start the return journey, which passes by Aviano, home to one of the largest NATO airbases in Europe. We also pay a visit to Maniago, the famous City of Knives. Since the mid-15th century, knives, scissors, and weapons have been forged here, at the peak counting up to 400 knife smiths. The knives are of the highest quality, and chefs who respect themselves have their own knives made here. A survival knife from Maniago even made it to Hollywood: Rambo fought with it in part II. We continue northwards, winding through dense deciduous forests through the Tramontina valley towards the Friulian Dolomites up to Lake Redona. An artificial lake that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and spectacularly beautiful. Three small villages lie flooded on its bottom, sacrificed for energy production in the 1950s. When the water level drops, the walls of the submerged houses of the village Movada become visible – an eerie sight...

BACK TO THE TAGLIAMENTO

Shortly after Lake Redona, take the turnoff toward Clauzetto. A curvy stretch leads through bright beech forests. We then continue to Forgaria nel Friuli and, once reaching the Tagliamento, follow the western riverside northwards. We arrive at Lake Cavazzo, the largest natural lake in Friuli, where you can take a refreshing break at its shores. Those interested can also make a detour to Bordano, the "village of butterflies." Via Cavazzo Carnico we continue to Tolmezzo – also passed by those traveling over the Rest Pass. Tolmezzo is the main town of the historically rich province of Carnia and its economic and culinary center.

CARNIA, PURELY GOOD

The cuisine of Carnia is down-to-earth and alpine, characterized by meat, offal, alpine cheese, mountain trout, and forest fruits. You almost need a dictionary for the menu because a local dialect is spoken here. Or just let yourself be explained what "cjarsons" and "ckropfn" (filled pasta) or "blecs" (cut buckwheat noodles) are. For "canederli" or "necklan," you might figure out that they are dumplings or gnocchi. The influence of the German language in the valley of the mountain river Bût, which we follow from Tolmezzo on the old Roman road "Via Iulia Augusta" towards the Plöcken Pass, is unmistakable. We first come to Arta Terme, a thermal spa popular already with the Romans, and continue to Paluzza. Shortly thereafter follows the village Timau-Tischlbong, a German-speaking enclave where the elders still speak "Tischlbongerisch," a Carinthian variant of the South Bavarian dialect. Here begins the ascent to Monte Croce Carnico, the Plöcken Pass, the second pass over the Carnic Alps to Carinthia next to Nassfeld, which was already used as a mule track in the time of the Illyrians. Today, the pass road with about 30 kilometers is well developed and offers 12 hairpin bends with four hairpin tunnels. A delightful conclusion to our eventful route through the Alpine-Adriatic area.

ROUTE TIP FOR CURVE FANS

A challenge for fearless bikers with experience and fitness is the ride over the Rest Pass (Passo Rest) to Tolmezzo. In this variant, you ride north from Lake Redona towards Tramonti di Sotto. After crossing the bridge over the Viellia wild brook and passing the village of Tramonti di Sopra, you have a good kilometer to "warm up" before things really get going. The view is not so great, mostly through forest, but you also do not cross the Rest Pass here: extreme curve fun is on the agenda! It only climbs to 1,052 meters above sea level, and the route to Mediis in the Lumiei valley is just under 25 kilometers, but they are really intense. You almost fall from one hairpin to the next – there are 36 in total, some extremely tight and going through several rock tunnels. The road surface has good grip, but you should definitely check in advance whether the road is also open (rockfall!) and consult the weather forecast; it's better to skip the ride in rain.