Palin – Zalakomár (DDK-06)

Itinerary:

During the route, we must follow the K marking all the way.

• In Palin, turn into Kalász Street opposite the Rózsa presszó (stamping place) following the K marking
• We reach the Fö rhénc Hill through streets
• After a forest section, before the Tukora Peak, the K sharply turns right off the paved road, while the K+ continues straight
• At the end of the hollow road, before exiting the forest, the road turns sharply left
• From the path, we turn off steeply at an oak tree into the valley towards the springs
• In Nagybakónak, we continue the Blue Trail turning left on Arany János Street
• After a short but steep climb, at the hunter's lookout, the K turns left at a right angle
• Upon reaching the top of Öröm Hill, we continue our way to the right at the Rockenbauer Memorial 
• We walk on a long, wide forest road, then cross the Kis-Balatoni Thermal Valley cycling route 
• Before the Zalakaros lookout, the K marking turns right in a clearing, but we make a short detour to the lookout where the stamping place is also found.
• We reach the main road winding through the streets of Zalakaros
• We walk on the bike path to Galambok
• Turning left at the church, we reach Zalakomár on a long, straight road.

Detailed description:

Palin - Tukora Peak

We start our section from Palin, once an independent settlement, now a suburb of Nagykanizsa. We turn off the main road into a dead-end street by a white stone cross - which is not for us. We walk among neat houses in a nice garden suburban street, where alert dogs in gardens loudly announce our arrival. The asphalt changes to a dirt road, cutting through agricultural fields, then we reach a built-up street again, where turning right we climb up the old tradition grape hill, Fö rhénc. Looking back, the undulating fields and Palin nestled in the valley give a beautiful picture. 

Reaching Old Fö rhénc, we can see that the stone cross at the beginning of the road was nicely renovated in 2018, and detailed, map-based information boards inform about the wineries, viticulture, and guesthouses linked to the Zala Wine Route. We walk along a pleasant, slightly rising long street on the crest of the hill. Among the vineyards, press houses, and family houses, we see old, renovated, and newly built ones. Every house proudly displays a newly installed uniform house number plate decorated with vine and chapel motifs characteristic of Fö rhénc. The vineyard hill evokes peaceful, tranquil times; if time permits, we can also walk across the parallel rows of cellars toward Újfő rhénc. We pass another beautifully renovated stone cross - erected in 1900 according to the inscription - and see carved statues of Mary in stone niches on some houses. At the end of the street stands the Fö rhénc Chapel built in 1761, whose golden onion dome can be seen from afar. The baroque, single-nave chapel's sanctuary fresco depicts the biblical scene of "Our Lord's Transfiguration," which is also the temple's dedication. The vineyard hill's feast is celebrated on August 6.

Leaving the fairy-tale-sounding Fö rhénc Hill, we enter the forest. The Blue Trail continues in an oak forest mixed with acacia, without significant elevation changes. Upon reaching a clear-cut, we turn left and continue along the ridge of Új-hegy. Oaks on the right, bushes and grassy areas on the left accompany the path.  

After the hunter's lookout, the air suddenly fills with the scent of pine, and soon we see its source: huge Scots pines dominate this short section. An old oak guards the pines by the road edge, then the Z marking arrives from the right. We exit the forest edge, vast arable land lies to the east, behind which the scattered houses of Nagybakónak and its prominent baroque church rise. Behind the village, the Zala hills close the view, but on clear days we can even spot the distinctive outlines of Badacsony.  

Turning alongside another hunter's lookout, we notice the compass of Principális Valley: the slender, tall, modern television tower standing on Tukora Peak. Before reaching the paved road to the tower, one of the most beautiful views awaits us: to the left, with a grassy hillside in the foreground, the gently rolling hills embrace the valley where Újudvar lies.

Before the summit, the two markings (K and Z) turn right, but we can make a few hundred meters detour to the base of the tower. Although not visitable, standing under one of the country's largest monumental structures is an interesting feeling. The 313-meter-high Tukora Peak hosts a 206-meter television tower whose grassy clearing has hosted a Catholic youth camp for decades each summer. Nearby stands a stone crucifix erected in 1932. If we follow the K+ marking alongside the tower, we can take a 1.5 km detour to the other side of the mountain, reaching the popular Csibiti Valley and the picturesque Csibiti Lake.

Tukora Peak - Nagybakónak

We return to the Blue Trail, where we turn off the road. We cross a wide grassy field, staying along the right edge. Looking back, the red and white striped shape of the television tower is clearly visible. A side road joins from the left, which is the K▲ route from the nearby Kőszikla Gorge - we will return here later. At the edge of the meadow, we reach the first groups of trees, then start descending in a deep path surrounded by acacias. Attention: soon the K separates from the Z marking, and before exiting the trees, following the blue, we turn left into the forest. The beautiful beech forest surrounded by acacia is dissected by deep erosion valleys. The path slopes increasingly, and to the right, we can see the winding ridge of the mixed beech valley. Watch out, as on one tree we will see a blue arrow-shaped marking pointing right: here we should descend into the valley of the springs. This is a short but very steep path without handholds; if uncomfortable, one can continue on the existing path and enter the springs from the valley edge.  

At the bottom of the loess gorge, springs fed by water filtering from the west side of the valley emerge. We find two springs and a well-developed resting place here: the Árpád or Esperanto springs. As early as the 1930s, scouts from Kanizsa frequently visited here, being the first to care for and name the springs. Only the name Árpád has remained from that time. Later, in the 1970s, local nature walkers and Esperanto supporters rediscovered and developed the springs' surroundings. The two water-giving springs are named after two world-famous Esperantists, Gyula Baghy and Kálmán Kalocsay. In 1989, scouts placed a memorial plaque between the two springs, resembling a spring enclosure. 

The developed resting place has another attribute attractive to many: some believe three "energy lines," or St. George lines, pass through here, considered to have healing effects. 

We reach a junction dominated by an arch-shaped bent oak tree. The K turns right here, leading straight into Nagybakónak, but if adventurous enough, there is an opportunity here for a gorge-walking detour. We will return here; the detour is just over two kilometers.

It is important to tackle the Kőszikla Gorge only with well-gripping, ankle-supporting shoes and in dry weather. As a sign warns hikers, wet conditions - in rain or after rain - make the gorge dangerous! On the K▲ marking, we start left on a narrowing path and soon reach the gorge entrance; until then, the TV tower points west. One would hardly imagine that the soft, clay soil has been carved by rainwater into such a wild terrain characteristic of this region. A sign soon marks the gorge entrance, with detailed information about the gorge's "building material" and its flora and fauna. From here, watch your step carefully, though at first, we climb on naturally supported steps with sleepers, assisted by a railing for those dizzy from the depth. Later, on a nearly vertical, slippery, and easily crumbly cliff edge, we continue on a completely exposed path with the untouched, as the earlier board promised, unbuilt gorge valley gaping beneath. At the bottom, a stream babbles, and above, fallen trees and debris make the path more exciting, with roots poking out of the sand walls here and there to hold onto. This is a good opportunity to examine the gorge's special vegetation, such as liverwort and various protected fern species. The gorge's end is the most spectacular; here, only steep ladders allow climbing out. The surroundings impress: layered sandstone cliffs bent in marl soil frame the erosions.

Exiting the rocks, we turn left on the path and soon rejoin the Blue Trail where we had been before.

We pass the northern end of Nagybakónak on Arany János Street but leave it immediately turning left. However, if we interrupt our South Transdanubian hike here, it is good to know that the village has operated a tourist hostel (more like a youth hostel) since 2016. 

Nagybakónak - Zalakaros lookout

We leave the settlement in the valley of Bakónaki Stream past grazing horses and a goat flock staring at us motionlessly. We reach a grassy clearing, with the tower top peeking just behind the hillside on our left. Watch out for a sign painted on a stake that will direct us to the right. We continue along a wooded marsh meadow by the stream, then near a wildflower meadow, we see the forest clearing where we will climb to the Cser Ridge, turning left at the hunter's lookout. This section features a clay-sandy soil much of the year: expect to walk through deep mud sometimes. On one side bushes and acacias, on the other oaks line the path. Reaching a clearing at the top, we are surprised to see a huge reed bed, 2.5 to 3 meters high, primarily planted for biomass-based energy use. After the reeds, we turn left and start descending in a deep path, turning right into the forest shortly. We descend slowly into a beautiful beech forest mixed with hornbeam and oak in a valley deepening on the right, searching for the K markings as there is hardly a worn path here.

Arriving in the valley, we immediately start on the narrow path leading to Öröm Hill. Before reaching the ridge, the P▲ marking joins from the left. A cared-for garden edged with fruit and conifer trees and a beautiful view of the Zala hills and renovated cottages indicates reaching the Öröm Hill hunting lodge. Contrastingly, a ruined building stands on the other side of the wide, grassy road. We soon reach the Öröm Hill crossroads, where it is worth stopping for a few minutes. On the once prosperous vineyard hilltop, a small chapel was built in the early 1990s in honor of Saint Christopher, protector of travelers and passengers. Next to it stands a stone cross erected in 1906 by former vineyard owners. A much less aesthetic sign indicates that continuing ahead leads to the Postás hostel (also the DDK stamping place). The Blue Trail turns right here where the Rockenbauer Pál memorial is located. The organizer's portrait is hung on a tree beside a memorial post, stylishly next to the blue mark. The enduring power of his legacy is shown by the wreaths always found under the picture or on the memorial post.

We continue through a young oak forest; soon the K● marking branches left, but don't be confused; we go straight. We cover nearly seven kilometers either on flat or gently descending terrain. Initially, a wide clearing parallel to the dirt road exposes the dirt road to weather. The soaked loess soil can cling 5-10 cm thick to your boots. 

We reach a fork where the K+ toward Nagybakónak continues right, and the K turns left. After the turn, the road heads south again, reaching the wide clearing of Chestnut Hut, where we can rest. We continue the Blue Trail in a deep, slightly rutted path, until our way sharply turns left: the K▲ branching right from the K leads to Zalaújlak. We now avoid the village, but note that József Egry, the "Painter of Balaton," was born here in 1883.

After a long time, we leave the forest behind and reach a grassy plateau road above Zalaújlak. As a sign shows, we cross the Kis-Balatoni Thermal Valley cycling route. Acacias and arable fields alternate, we pass under a power line and spot the first houses of Öreg Hill. The view opens up, showing the silhouettes of the Balaton Uplands’ landmark hills. Badacsony and Gulács are clearly visible, with the Kis-Balaton wetland shimmering before them. We turn right onto a dirt road at a stone cross and soon walk in an oak grove in the park forest around Zalakaros. The invitingly wide forest promenade is left by the K marking turning right, but we can safely follow the call and take a return detour of just over one kilometer to the lookout and stamping place. The old dangerous lookout was replaced in 2018 by the new "Forester’s Lookout," a 23-meter-tall green painted oak tower. Its higher and more massive covered upper level is reached by 91 stairs, but the view compensates: from Kis-Balaton through the landmark hills across Zalakaros houses to the Somogy Hills. The new lookout’s opening has revived the area: wine routes, Nordic walking circles, bike paths, and nature trails start from or touch this junction. The stamping place is at one of the lookout's legs.

Zalakaros lookout - Zalakomár railway station

We walk back to the barrier where the K marking splits. For a while, we share the route with the Csiga-túra educational trail, especially useful for interesting information on forest signs. At a rest area, we descend to the valley reservoir, cross a small dam and short concrete stairs, and continue our forest path. Surprisingly, two wave benches and a table appear among the trees as if we were at the edge of the nearby thermal bath pool.

We cross a straight clearing that serves as a sledging slope if occasionally covered with snow. Behind the trees, the Park Street bus turnaround and a covered rest area await. We avoid the asphalt and continue on a narrow, thorny shrub-covered path. For a few steps, we enter a residential area but quickly return to a difficult-to-pass, U-shaped sunken path. We reach a small forest house, then after some dirt roads, enter Zalakaros streets via Mókus-köz.

A couple of surprisingly eccentric houses appear, making the contrast after a long forest road feel even greater.

We wind down Panorama Street to the main road, which leads out at the famous Zalakaros Thermal Bath operating since 1965. The nearly eight kilometers to the section's end do not pose major challenges or sights, except perhaps the perfectly straight asphalt road. Between Zalakaros and Galambok, we walk on a bike path, leaving behind hotels and apartments built near the bath. Agricultural fields, meadows, and grasslands surround us, arriving in Galambok. At the Catholic church, we turn left at a right angle onto Zalakomár road. We then walk almost five kilometers on flat, barren land between Galambok and Zalakomár to the section's end. Summer hikers should take adequate sun protection. There is no sidewalk here; we must walk carefully on the road edge, but traffic is fortunately light. This does not apply to crossing the busy Road 7, which we must cross before entering the Komárváros district of Zalakomár. We reach the district's medical office on Rákóczi and Ady Endre Streets, where the stamp is found on the column: this marks the end of the South Transdanubian Blue Trail section 6.

Walking back 150 meters, we find the bus stop at the intersection, from where we can reach Nagykanizsa or Balaton. For onward train travel, one must walk almost 1 km from here straight to the railway station. We do not cross the tracks, though the K continues here; instead, we continue straight parallel to the tracks for 300 meters to reach Zalakomár railway station.