Around the Totengrund

We start from the visitor parking lot of the Heide Experience Center. The first meters follow the quaint cobblestone Wilseder Straße. On the sandy track next to the street, one of the many carriages immediately passes us as an atmospheric aperitif of the heath, which, in good weather, drives tourists through the heath. Also, a heath painter is standing here in the first meters, probably more to catch tourists than to let impressions flow into pictures in the quiet of the heath.

Then after 500 m, we turn right and walk through one of the many radiant green heath forests. After one kilometer, it goes into the open heath, which accompanies us mostly throughout the tour.

At kilometer 4, we pass by the first typical, romantic heath village Wilsede. An early first break would already be possible during a hike at the Wilseder Hof. Later, we will experience more of Wilsede. We turn right again into the heath and approach the Wilseder Berg, which from here does not even look like a hill.

With its 169 meters, it is the highest hill in the North German Plain. The hill is part of a terminal moraine. An ice age glacier piled it up. Therefore, once at the top, we can enjoy the view of the heath forests on one side and the open heath on the other. Here on top, the hill really lives up to its name in the landscape.

With the momentum of few altitude meters, it goes southward past Stattberg towards Haverbeck. The warmth of the open sandy areas and paths acts like a restorative treatment after the fresh and long spring. On Selhorner Weg, we meet another sociable carriage ride next to the paved street. We extend our planned route by a few meters when we see the Turmberg on our right. It was not marked on our maps. Not high (135 m), but still with a nice view.

Upon arrival, a nice older gentleman greets us. He rests with his blue pullover, like the philosopher from the hill, leaning on his walking stick, as a contrast to the hiking crowd dressed in outdoor fashion. Persistent and almost motionless... eyes directed into the distance of the heath.

We politely say goodbye to the "Guardian of the Turmberg" and continue our way.

Past a large barn that serves as a nightly shelter for the Heidschnucken herds. The next wooden elongated building is a shelter for the beehives placed here during the heath bloom. Heath honey is one of the specialties of the Lüneburg Heath, always a good choice as a souvenir.

At about kilometer 13, we reach the turnaround point of this tour: the Totengrund. Indeed, the deep basin with the surrounding heights impressively stands out from the previous heath areas. Most hikers stay at the northwest edge of Totengrund with its viewing platform. There you can see a small crowd. But on the circuit, we are almost alone. The path goes on a narrow trail up to Holzberg and through the forest that surrounds the oval valley. From up here, the valley looks even more impressive. However, the colors of the later heath bloom are still somewhat missing until the splendor of a valley of otherworldly beauty really appears.

Shortly after Totengrund, we then hear what makes hiking in the Lüneburg Heath truly complete: the bleating of the Heidschnucken. And soon we stand in the middle of the hustle of a mixed herd of sheep and goats. On both sides of the path, in bushes and an open heath area, they nibble on many things tasty for sheep and goat stomachs.

The calm of sheep on a North Sea dike is not reflected in this herd. Eating seems more hectic, always on the move. The entire herd is always in motion, and snacks are picked "to go" from roots or branches.

Only the shepherd seems to be the calm center in this cluster and seems to adapt more to the herd’s path than to be the leader and director of this herd. The shepherd follows the herd’s seemingly random chosen destination. If it moves, the shepherd follows. If it stops, the shepherd also rests. Stylishly leaning on his shepherd’s staff. Like in a picture book.

Anyone interested in the significance of landscape management through sheep and goat grazing, as well as other technical maintenance measures, can find useful information at the Heide Experience Center at the start/finish.

From Totengrund, we follow a path that runs straight toward the heath village Wilsede. A historical museum village only accessible to visitors on foot, by bicycle, or by carriage. Charming cafés and restaurants, old houses, and a museum complete the feeling that the pause button has been pressed here and the tranquility of the heath has settled over this place.

Here, at the Milchhalle, you also find the motto "Everything would be better if you walked more". What could be a better motivation... to set off cheerfully on the last 4 kilometers of the tour, even if we interpret walking somewhat briskly, as a jog.

After a detour through the village, we discover another gem. If you haven’t already stocked up at the Milchhalle, Mein Teegarten offers perhaps an even nicer place to enjoy a refreshment in peace on one of the individual spots in the garden.

On a hike, we would probably have stopped here, but with our sweaty running clothes, we continue at an easy trot. After one of the wide sandy carriage paths, we come to Wilseder Straße with its quaint cobblestone pavement. The road connects Undeloh with Wilsede. Running on the cobblestones can serve as a concentration exercise while running, but after a few meters, we take the path running on the left side of the road, used for a smoother bicycle, hiking, and running experience.

After almost 21 kilometers, we happily arrive at the destination and carry the feeling of peace and expanse of the heath with us for the next hours.

Freshly showered, we immediately take a detour to the Heide Experience Center to underpin the many interesting impressions of the Lüneburg Heath in the free exhibition. To fill the carbohydrate gap in our stomachs, we then treat ourselves to delicious cake from the café in the Heide Experience Center and thus conclude the eventful running day in the Lüneburg Heath.