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Ice Climbing recommended route Ice Climbing  · Texelgruppe

Mitterkas Icefall

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  • Photo: Nereo Ongaro, Archiv Nereo Ongaro

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    An icefall in the Texel Group Nature Park with an easy approach via a forest road, not too demanding climbing, and solid, reliable ice.
    moderate
    Distance 4.1 km
    2:00 h
    199 m
    199 m
    1,889 m
    1,697 m
    This icefall is located in the Pfosstal at about 1900 m elevation and faces north. The ice is fed by a source that emerges directly from a rock fissure. The consistent and constant water supply combined with the north exposure ensures compact and solid ice.

    The moderate difficulties (II, Wi 3+/4) and the tiered structure also make it suitable for beginners. Additionally, the icefall is considered largely free of objective hazards.

    Special attention is required for crossing the Pfossental stream, which should be iced over in good conditions; otherwise, the most suitable spot to cross must be found.

    On the left side of the icefall are two fixed belay stations that facilitate the descent by abseiling.

    Author’s recommendation

    Recommended as the first ice climbing outing of the season or for accompanying beginners, thanks to the moderate difficulties and consistently simple structure.
    Difficulty
    WI3+ moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    1,889 m
    Lowest point
    1,697 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
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    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Wall height
    100 m
    Climbing length
    110 m, 2:30 h
    Belay stations
    with anchor point for abseiling, with bolts
    Rope length
    2 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    9

    Track types

    Forested/wild trail 92.50%Road 2.11%Unknown 5.38%
    Forested/wild trail
    3.8 km
    Road
    86 m
    Unknown
    220 m
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    Gasthof Jägerrast

    Safety information

    Access to the Pfosstal is considered dangerous in cases of high avalanche risk. The forest road leading to the icefall is interrupted by several potential avalanche chutes.

    Additionally, it should be noted that there is no network coverage along the entire route – a completely offline area where reliable communication is not possible.

    Roadbook

    From the parking lot of the Gasthof "Jägerrast," follow the forest road in a northeast direction and gradually enter the Texel Group Nature Park. After about two kilometers, where the valley widens significantly, you see the icefall on the right, across the stream.
    Rest stop
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    Photo
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    Parking place Jägerrast
    Guesthouse Jägerrast - Senales
    Alpine cheese dairy Vorderkaser
    Gasthof Jägerrast
    Alpine cheese dairy Vorderkaser

    Directions

    Drive on the Vinschgau State Road SS38 to Naturns and then on the State Road LS3 into the Schnalstal. Follow the road for about 9 km to the turnoff into the Pfosstal. Turn there and continue for another 5 km to the end of the road at Gasthof Jägerrast.

    Parking

    Parking available at the Gasthof Jägerrast.

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.734913, 10.926820
    DMS
    46°44'05.7"N 10°55'36.6"E
    UTM
    32T 647208 5177509
    w3w 
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    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    Typical ice climbing equipment with ice screws, possibly slings for variations, as well as anchor and self-belaying gear. Highly recommended are two half ropes of 60 m each, which make the descent by abseiling significantly easier.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    WI3+ moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    4.1 km
    Duration
    2:00 h
    Ascent
    199 m
    Descent
    199 m
    Highest point
    1,889 m
    Lowest point
    1,697 m
    Out and back

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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