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Ice Climbing
· Katschberg - Liesertal - Maltatal
Max - "Right Shield" icefall - Malta Valley
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TOPO Max Right ShieldPhoto: Christian Resch, Alpenverein Spittal/Drau
The Malta Valley is known throughout Europe as a top destination for climbers and is therefore extremely popular and well-visited.
In winter, it offers ambitious ice climbers the opportunity to let off steam on all kinds of frozen rock!
The Supermax is one of the best-known top addresses in the Malta Valley. Just to the west of this gem is a somewhat hidden, but no less interesting, variation.
"La cascada" is quite centrally located, the approach to this interesting formation is short and there are no orientation problems.
The ice formation is somewhat stepped and therefore not quite as homogeneous as its famous neighbour. Nevertheless, it boasts some technically challenging passages in the compact ice.
The 260 metre high icefall awaits its aspirants with 6 exciting pitches. If you want to climb through this imposing structure, you can look forward to difficulties up to WI 4+. Ice experts will have the greatest fun tackling the almost free-standing pillar in the 3rd pitch with a difficulty level of WI 5!
The descent is by abseiling down the route, so take enough slings with you - you should be a master of building an Abalakov ice hourglass!
The "Right Shield" is somewhat hidden between Supermax and Kerchhacklfall and is an absolutely adequate destination when "the devil is loose" again on the famous neighbours. A worthwhile alternative for all ice climbers who prefer it quiet and lonely! This tour has not yet been published in any guidebooks.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Caution after large amounts of fresh snow - avalanche catchment area. Partly quite thin ice cover, especially in the first pitches, the fall becomes more compact towards the top.Tips and suggestions
Attention: Hunting and forestry restricted area. Do not climb before 1 January and do not exit into higher forest regions.
If temperatures are consistently low, you can add the Kerchhacklfall, which is a little further west, after this tour!
Roadbook
From the signposted car park (just before the Hotel Benjamin) into the valley to the Schleier Falls. Cross the stream there (stone-hopping) via the Malta. You are now exactly between Supermax in the east and the Kerschhacklfall in the west.
Now ascend in a direct line, finally passing a striking high seat on the left (east) to the first steep upswing, which is the start.
Here you are spoilt for choice - you can either start on the left-hand branch or (if the right-hand bolt is in place) on the more challenging right-hand section.
In the third pitch, you can again choose between the left and right sections. The expert will be delighted to tackle the steep left-hand pillar, while the average climber will prefer the slightly easier right-hand shield. For the rest, see the enclosed TOPO.
Descend by abseiling via the route, mostly on trees, once on Abalakov, so take enough sling material with you!
Directions
Approach via the A10 motorway, exit Gmünd. Continue on the B99 through the village of Malta until 300 metres before the Hotel Benjamin. There is a signposted car park on the left (directly at the Schleierfall).Parking
At the designated car park, about 300m on the left in front of the Hotel Benjamin.Coordinates
Equipment
Complete steep ice equipment including an assortment of shorter ice screws (10 & 13cm), as the ice cover is often very thin. Slings & cords for setting up the abseil points (1 x Abalakov, the rest on trees).Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions