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Ice Climbing recommended route Ice Climbing  · Province of Brescia

Mafia Bianca Monticello Superiore

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AVS Sektion Brixen Verified partner 
  • Monticello Superiore seen from the parking lot.
    Monticello Superiore seen from the parking lot.
    Photo: Evelyn Gafriller, AVS Sektion Brixen

Selected alternatives for you
    Classic mixed climbing on the Monticello Superiore at the Tonale Pass
    moderate
    Distance 2.6 km
    6:20 h
    726 m
    107 m
    2,608 m
    1,882 m
    The Monticello Superiore (2608 meters) is located directly at the Tonale Pass, which connects Trentino and Lombardy. It is known for its ice mixed routes - there are at least 7 different ones plus possible variants, with the most famous being the "Mafia Bianca." It is often possible early in the season. The not too long and comfortable approach and descent also argue in favor of this route. Additionally, you have a great view from the summit of the Cima Presena and the Adamello group.

    Author’s recommendation

    Start early, it is usually very busy!
    Difficulty
    WI4+M3+ moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    2,608 m
    Lowest point
    1,882 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    0:45 h
    Climbing length
    200 m, 4:50 h
    Descent
    1:25 h
    Belay stations
    with bolts
    Protection
    sporadic bolts, trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m
    Number of quickdraws
    8
    First ascent
    Salvaterra, Tait, Tomasi

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Roadbook

    From the Tonale Pass, follow the ski slope up to about just below the penultimate lift tower, then turn left onto a slanting ledge at the base of the Monticello Superiore. Follow this to the entry cave. The "Mafia Bianca" is marked here.

    The belays are all set up and there are occasional pitons and spits in the pitches. However, friends and ice screws are recommended for good protection. 

    1st pitch: 60° - 25 m

    2nd pitch: M2+, 50° - 40 m

    3rd pitch: 50° - 20 m

    4th pitch: M3+ - 30 m

    5th pitch: 40°, M2 - 5 m

    6th pitch: M4+ - 18 m

    7th pitch: 50° - 20 m

    For the descent, there are two options: either rappel down the route or abseil once 50 meters on the back side and then follow the marked path in about 25 minutes back to the ski slope and from there down to the parking lot. 

    Rest stop
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    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
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    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
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    Photo
    Video
    Parkplatz
    Ghiacciaio Presena
    Talstation Paradiso
    Hotel Piandineve
    Passo Paradiso
    Bergbahnstation am Passo Paradiso
    Ghiacciaio Presena
    Presena Glacier

    Directions

    From the Brenner motorway to San Michele all' Adige. From there, follow the SS43 towards Cles/Malè. After the town of Cles, continue on the SS42 following the signs towards Male - Passo Tonale until you reach the pass.

    Parking

    Parking lot at the Tonale Pass by the ski lift

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.257093, 10.571766
    DMS
    46°15'25.5"N 10°34'18.4"E
    UTM
    32T 621140 5123813
    w3w 
    ///underpaid.solo.misuses
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    Normal ice climbing equipment, as well as friends up to #2 and slings, double rope

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    WI4+M3+ moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2.6 km
    Duration
    6:20 h
    Ascent
    726 m
    Descent
    107 m
    Highest point
    2,608 m
    Lowest point
    1,882 m
    Summit route Scenic

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

    Statistics

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