Mafia Bianca Monticello Superiore
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileRoadbook
From the Tonale Pass, follow the ski slope up to about just below the penultimate lift tower, then turn left onto a slanting ledge at the base of the Monticello Superiore. Follow this to the entry cave. The "Mafia Bianca" is marked here.
The belays are all set up and there are occasional pitons and spits in the pitches. However, friends and ice screws are recommended for good protection.
1st pitch: 60° - 25 m
2nd pitch: M2+, 50° - 40 m
3rd pitch: 50° - 20 m
4th pitch: M3+ - 30 m
5th pitch: 40°, M2 - 5 m
6th pitch: M4+ - 18 m
7th pitch: 50° - 20 m
For the descent, there are two options: either rappel down the route or abseil once 50 meters on the back side and then follow the marked path in about 25 minutes back to the ski slope and from there down to the parking lot.
Ghiacciaio Presena
Talstation Paradiso
Hotel Piandineve
Passo Paradiso
Bergbahnstation am Passo Paradiso
Ghiacciaio Presena
Presena Glacier
Directions
From the Brenner motorway to San Michele all' Adige. From there, follow the SS43 towards Cles/Malè. After the town of Cles, continue on the SS42 following the signs towards Male - Passo Tonale until you reach the pass.Parking
Parking lot at the Tonale Pass by the ski liftCoordinates
Equipment
Normal ice climbing equipment, as well as friends up to #2 and slings, double ropeLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions