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Ice Climbing Premium content Ice Climbing · Allgäu

Classical Rubihorn North Face

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  • At the end of the 4th pitch at the rock edge above the 2 m high wall section with crack
    At the end of the 4th pitch at the rock edge above the 2 m high wall section with crack
    Photo: Outdooractive Climbing
moderate
Distance 10.1 km
9:00 h
1,080 m
1,080 m
1,941 m
861 m
The Rubihorn north face is one of the winter classics in the Allgäu Alps and is an ideal practice area to venture into larger winter undertakings. (M4, 45°, rock difficulties: max. III+/IV-)

The Rubihorn north face now offers a variety of mixed routes. The classical Rubihorn north face is the easiest ascent through the wall. Due to the short approach and comfortable descent, it is a perfect day objective. There is usually hardly any ice contact, moving mostly on rock, frozen grass patches, and snow. The route can be divided into two sections. The lower wall part is mostly on rock and divided into 5 pitches (two of them very easy). The upper wall part is mainly climbed on snow or firn up to 45°. There are a few rock sections to overcome. The upper wall part is much easier than the lower. The route can be done early in winter with snow cover. Protection is moderate to good. Most belays are equipped with a bolt. The lower rock part has some bolts and normal bolts, as well as sling material for intermediate protection. Nevertheless, mobile protection should also be added by oneself, and belays may be improved with a second fixed point. Rock quality is generally good. Due to

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