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Ice Climbing recommended route Ice Climbing  · Ortler Group

Bergl Icefall

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  • Visible from the parking lot.
    Visible from the parking lot.
    Photo: Nereo Ongaro, Archiv Nereo Ongaro

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    An icefall at the foot of King Ortler, in a high alpine and demanding environment that reflects the mountain itself. A place and an icefall not to be underestimated, but in the end offering great satisfaction.
    moderate
    Distance 2.6 km
    2:45 h
    277 m
    277 m
    1,861 m
    1,590 m
    The icefall is already visible from the parking lot and appears very impressive. It can be reached in about 1 hour of walking and around 300 vertical meters. The route runs over two rope lengths with a total length of about 70 meters. 

    The first pitch, about 40 m long and with a difficulty grade of WI5, is the most demanding. It is characterized by small columns and hollow areas. With increasing height, the ice quality improves and becomes more compact. The second pitch, about 30 m long and with a difficulty grade of WI4+, leads to the upper part of the icefall.

    For the descent, it is recommended to abseil directly down the icefall using Abalakov ice anchors or to exit in the upper area to the orographic right in order to reach trail number 18, which leads back to the parking lot.

    Author’s recommendation

    Take equipment for a potential abseil; an anchor can be set up on dwarf pines.
    Difficulty
    WI5 moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    1,861 m
    Lowest point
    1,590 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
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    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Approach
    277 m, 1:00 h
    Wall height
    60 m
    Climbing length
    70 m, 2:00 h
    Descent
    277 m, 0:45 h
    Belay stations
    trad gear
    Protection
    trad gear
    Rope length
    2 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    13

    Track types

    Asphalt 0.07%Dirt road 8.13%Forested/wild trail 15.99%Path 65.90%Unknown 9.88%
    Asphalt
    2 m
    Dirt road
    211 m
    Forested/wild trail
    414 m
    Path
    1.7 km
    Unknown
    256 m
    Show elevation profile

    Rest stops

    V2 Trafoi Parkplatz (Stage 7)
    TAR_2019_Stage8_V2

    Safety information

    When planning this tour, the amount of snow on the ground and avalanche danger must be carefully checked. It must also be taken into account that at a certain avalanche risk it is advisable—and legally required—to carry full emergency equipment (avalanche transceiver, shovel, and probe).

    In addition, special attention should be paid to the ice quality for the abseil maneuvers using Abalakov anchors; if conditions are unfavorable, the existing dwarf pines can also be used as alternative anchor points.

    A single abseil with 60-meter twin ropes is sufficient to reach the base of the icefall.

    Roadbook

    From the parking lot, follow the signs to the "Payer Hut" via trail number 18, cross the bridge over the Trafoi stream, and reach the pilgrimage church. From there, follow trail number 18 southeast through the forest, ascending with several switchbacks. At around 1840 m altitude, as the trail approaches the icefall channel, leave the marked path and head southeast to the base of the icefall.

    You can either enter the channel directly and follow it to the base of the icefall or ascend in the forest on the orographic right side until you are level with the icefall, then traverse to the base.

    Return via the same route.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
    Top Partner
    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    The three Holy Wells
    Respect the mountain - fountain at the grilling area at the Holy Three Fountains in Trafoi
    Rock tunnel
    Respect the mountain - fountain/spring at the Holy Three Fountains in Trafoi
    Heilige Drei Brunnen
    Kapelle Heilig-Drei-Brunnen
    V2 Trafoi Parkplatz (Stage 7)
    TAR_2019_Stage8_V2

    Directions

    Drive on the Vinschgau state road SS38 to Prad am Stilfserjoch and then follow the signs to Stilfserjoch. Shortly after the village of Trafoi, turn left onto a small street marked "Camping." Follow this street further to the Holy Three Fountains (Hl. Drei Brunnen), where it ends in a large parking lot.

    Parking

    A large parking lot is located at the end of the street in the village of Hl. Drei Brunnen.

    Coordinates

    DD
    46.532613, 10.503316
    DMS
    46°31'57.4"N 10°30'11.9"E
    UTM
    32T 615282 5154325
    w3w 
    ///affronts.metabolism.employs
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Equipment

    Ice climbing equipment, two 60-meter half ropes, and a sufficiently long accessory cord to set up the abseil station.

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    WI5 moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    2.6 km
    Duration
    2:45 h
    Ascent
    277 m
    Descent
    277 m
    Highest point
    1,861 m
    Lowest point
    1,590 m
    Out and back Scenic

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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