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Starý Smokovec Image: the Grand Hotel in Starý Smokovec © Václav KlumparPhoto: Václav Klumpar, Rother Bergverlag
The Veľká Studená dolina is the northwestern, east-facing upper part of the Studená dolina, separated from its smaller sister, the Malá Studená dolina, by the Prostredný hrebeň (Middle Ridge). The valley is 6 km long, partly over 2 km wide, and has 22 mountain lakes on a total area of 9.8 km². The lower part is relatively flat, further up there are some terrain steps, above which lie the Zbojnícka pláň (the "Robber's Plain") and the Strelecké polia (Hunter's Meadows, literally "Firing Fields" of the former chamois hunters). However, from the 17th to the 19th centuries, no real robbers were active here, but rather poachers. Nevertheless, a "robber's hut", as the Zbojnícka chata is called in German, fits perfectly into this valley for every Tatra fan. The original hunting lodge from 1907 on the southeastern edge of the Zbojnícka pláň was opened to hikers and mountaineers from 1910 and was renovated in 1924, 1986, and 2001. From the nearby lake Starolesnianske pleso, one of the most beautiful views of the valley can be enjoyed.
After the ascent from Starý Smokovec, we first walk from the mountain hotel Hrebienok on the red-marked Tatra Magistrale in a comfortable traverse to the fork Nad Rainerovou chatou on the Starolesnianska poľana, where we turn left (marked in blue) into the Veľká Studená dolina valley. In the lower valley section, the ascent is only moderately steep; on the left-hand side, you can see the mighty pillars and gullies of Slavkovský štít, and on the right-hand side, the Prostredný hrebeň with the advanced Oštepy (pitching towers). After about 50 minutes, we reach the large rock block Ohnisko and shortly thereafter cross the stream Veľký Studený potok on a wooden bridge. This is followed by a somewhat steeper ascent in two hairpin bends, then it goes more gently into the chain-secured rock gorge Brána. Here turn left over the stream and steeply up again to the southeastern outcrop of the ridge Zbojnícky chrbát, continuing along it, then above the mountain lakes Vareškové and Dlhé pleso –
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