Up to Rezi Castle

 Itinerary

•  From the bus stop, head east on the K+ trail.
• After the former TSZ farm, turn left after 400 m onto the KL trail, which we follow to the castle ruins.
• Leave the castle heading south on the KL trail, which leads down the cart track.
• Turning left onto the K trail, descending further towards Rezi, bypassing Rakottyás Lake and the Saint Spring.

Detailed description of the route

Up to the castle

From the bus stop, head east on the K+ trail, going straight at the roundabout. Leaving the village past the former TSZ buildings, we turn left at the first junction among the fields onto the KL trail. From here, we follow this forestry road all the way to the parking area below the castle.

Rezi lies in the northwestern part of the dolomite block of the Keszthely Hills in the Rezi Basin. This half-basin, covered with loess and open from the southwest, is largely covered by fields like other loess areas in our region; the steeper slopes and hilltops are primarily decorated by forests of Turkey oak, which tolerate drought well. In the 19th century, however, most of the hilltops and north-facing slopes were still covered by extensive beech woods, which have mostly changed to beech derivative forests and Turkey oak forests due to climate change. Beech woods extend to the castle only in the aptly named Little Beech Valley, where the 12 m long, currently collapsed Little Beech Valley sinkhole cave opens in the roadside ditch, discovered in 1990 during the forestry road's bulldozing. The cavity likely formed by the collapse or digestion of another, deeper cave.

Along the embankment of the road, the dolomite forming the mountain, the Somló Formation – developed from the sandy-clayey sediments of Lake Pannon – and loess from the Pleistocene protected from northern winds emerge in several places. After two bends and at the signboard of the Rezi Castle educational trail leading up to the castle, the landscape opens towards Rezi and the Zala Hills. About half a kilometer later, we arrive at a rest area where we leave the forestry road to the right and climb a narrow, rocky path up to the flat top of Meleg Hill. On the upper section, dolomite stones stained brown by siliceous sinter can also be found in the path; this silica material was brought here from deep within the Earth by thermal waters discussed later.

Meleg Hill

Meleg Hill is a strictly protected nature reserve, so relevant restrictions must be observed. Because of its varied geomorphology and favorable geographical position, it was already inhabited in the Bronze Age, and with the construction of the stone castle at the turn of the 13th and 14th centuries, the plateau's cultivation gained new momentum. This is indicated by the remains of the early modern fortified earthwork called Aligvár, which is well visible when our small path rejoins the cleared road. This earthwork fortified the castle against Turkish attacks. In the conflicts, the then owner Gersei Pethő family lost a lot of revenues (mainly taxes), so in a family council in 1562 it was recorded that “...in Rezi Castle under six gates, we keep two watchmen and one humble Porkoláb...”. The southernmost gate stood here. About 60 m further is another earthwork cut by the forestry road. This was the southern end of the Bronze Age rampart called Cser-vár, remnants of which can still be found around the edge of the small plateau. During the Turkish era fortifications, these ramparts and parapets, many more of which probably existed then, were rebuilt and integrated into the Aligvár rampart system. From the mentioned charter, the second gate might have stood here. The third may have been about 200 m from here near the rain shelter and fire pits, where the road we use meets the Köves ditch road approaching the mountain from the east. The fourth was a timber wall built on the southern side of a much deeper dry ditch blocking the castle northwards. This was followed by today's castle gate, while the sixth was located in the dividing wall of the castle courtyard defending the old tower.

The base

In 1967, the Hungarian People's Army built the No. 1 Mountain Training Base at the foot of the hill, thus closing its entire environment off from the public, including the castle ruins where soldiers frequently trained. In the surrounding forest, alongside remains of the base, the site of the Vietnamese bridge can also be found. The training center was dismantled in 1997. However, this closure greatly benefited the area's wildlife, so due to numerous protected and strictly protected species present, the area was declared a landscape protection area as early as 1984, and in 1997 it became a strictly protected natural area of the newly established Balaton Uplands National Park.

Rezi Castle

Rezi Castle was started by Apor and his brother Lukács, belonging to the Marczal branch of the Pécz clan, around the turn of the 13th and 14th centuries, but at that time only a small stone building likely stood in the area of today's castle courtyard. In 1290, they captured Tátika Castle and many surrounding estates, thus controlling the road leading here, connecting Buda through Zagreb to Venice.

After Apor's death, the castle became royal property, then around 1360 King Louis the Great donated it to later palatine István Lackfi, who until his assassination in 1397 surrounded the southern part of the castle with a courtyard wall more than 1 m thick and 3 m high, built gate towers, and had the currently visible castle moat dug, significantly strengthening the earlier structure.

After several ownership changes, in 1433 the Gersei Pethő family, then owning large estates in the vicinity, acquired the castle, which served as a good base for their local dominations. In the mid-15th century, they likely built the three-story residential tower towering over the northern cliffs of the hill. In November 1490, Habsburg Maximilian's invading troops besieged and captured the fortress but were retaken by Pál Kinizsi's forces the following year. The damages were rapidly repaired by János Pethő the defender, and with the raising of the defensive walls, the castle was further fortified. The Turks first besieged it in 1554 but could not capture it, though the attack prompted the lord of the castle to build new fortifications, after which approximately 9 m high walls with defensive gables protected inhabitants. It is probable that the gate towers also underwent significant rebuilding, and the Aligvár rampart system was created at that time.

In 1561, after the fall of Hegyesd, Rezi became a final fortress. The Pethős lived in and maintained it, as attested by the venerable guests of János Pethő. However, by 1564 the entire area was paying tribute to the Turks, and due to simultaneous fighting and the upkeep of Tátika and Keszthely alongside Rezi, the family’s revenues significantly decreased. With the death of the castle lord in 1578, the fortress's heyday also ended. The already dilapidated castle was likely rendered unusable in 1589 simultaneously with Tátika's fall by blowing up the gate towers. In 1741 Kristóf Festetics bought it (already as ruins), and his family owned it along with other estates of the Keszthely manor until World War II.

Today, the castle hosts several events, such as the traditional “Rezi Castle Hike” and the “Moonlight Hike to Rezi Castle” nighttime tour organized annually by the Rezi Castle Friends Association.

Panorama among the walls

It is worth bringing binoculars on the hike because as soon as we exit below the gate towers, a beautiful view immediately unfolds to the east. The panorama starts with the eastern extension of Meleg Hill, then in the distance beyond Barbacs above Vállus, the Badacsony rises above the dazzling water surface of Lake Balaton. This is followed by Örsi Hill and Gulács, then Saint George Hill. Following these are the basalt hills closing the Zsidi Basin from the east: Stone Nose, Great and Little Láz Hills, with Várvölgy in the foreground, and beyond the saddle dividing the last two elevations, Boncsos can be seen near Monostorapáti, followed by the Southern Bakony mountains: Agártető, Kab Hill (in front of it Cseket Hill and Kecskevár lookout), Hajag, and the Calvary Hill and surroundings of Magyarpolány. After the saddle, the northern basalt rim of the Keszthely Hills continues with Szebike, above the flat summit of which rise Great Som Hill (foreground Ajka) and Kőris Hill. The next nearby ridge is Sarvaly ridge; northeast foot of Tátika crowned the castle, we see Farkas Hill, behind which even the Pannonhalma Abbey can be visible if binoculars or a telephoto lens are used. Behind Tátika, the elongated block of Rendek Hill watches over Sümeg, with the castle hill of Sümeg appearing in front of the plateau. In front of the next basalt mesa, Kovácsi Hill, on the Tatárkúti and Vár-rét meadows, thirteen Early Iron Age princely tumuli line up, over which the Kisalföld plain smooths into the horizon, with Zalaszántó lying in the hill's foreground. Reaching the old tower, major sacred sites of the settlement come into view: Árpád era church, Saint Donát chapel, and the Peace stupa. After Kovácsi Hill, on a clear day, the panorama continues with the Kőszeg Mountains, behind which the Schneeberg, 170 km away and 2076 m high, towers over the landscape, followed by Wechsel in the distance, in front of it the ridges of the Zala Hills marked with furrows: Zalavári and Zalaapáti back, and the Egerszeg-Letenye Hills. Ahead, the steep northern cliff face of Púpos Hill breaks down to the basin floor.

Brief geological overview

The castle is also a good starting point to learn about the region’s geological past. Meleg Hill's formation began more than 200 million years ago. At that time, the Keszthely Hills were covered by shallow waters of one of Africa’s northern bays, the Tethys Ocean, in which the western part of the Keszthely Hills gradually separated as a lagoon. In this oxygen-poor environment, the rock called Rezi dolomite, grayish in color with a bitumen scent on fresh fracture surfaces, formed; the geological reference section of this rock is provided by the rocks under the castle. The rock, often built of 1–2 mm thick layers, is well visible in the castle wall. The area dried out in the Cretaceous period during the Alpine folding and was flooded again by the Paratethys in the Miocene. The lake’s separation from the world ocean and gradual freshening led to the formation of Lake Pannon. At this time, the Somló Formation characteristic of the Rezi area also formed. Ancient rivers flowing into the lake deposited large amounts of sands they carried from the Alps into the delta; this well-carvable, thick-bedded, limy sandstone formed a significant stone industry in the village and surroundings until the mid-20th century. Local stonemason products were known nationally; many can still be seen today in house walls and roadside crosses from Fonyód to Zánka. It was also used for making “finer” objects such as grindstones, millstones, and statues.

About 8 million years ago, Lake Pannon retreated, and about 3–4 million years ago, basalt volcanoes visible from the castle erupted during the Mio/Pliocene basalt volcanism of the Balaton Uplands. During their after-effects, thermal water first appeared here near the thermal caves under the castle, first reported by Béla Darnay-Dornyai, who published multiple geological, hydrological, botanical, historical, and archaeological papers about the area, including on the thermal water flow of Lake Hévíz. In his study, he identified five stations tracing the subsidence of Lake Hévíz to its current location. Since then, many more traces of thermal water activity have been discovered in the hills, but his theory remains valid. He also made great contributions to tourism. His works published in the Detailed Hungarian Guidebook series (Bakony 1927, Balaton 1934) were among the most modern comprehensive descriptions of the area at the time.

Descent to the fields

We leave the castle heading south on the KL trail, which leads down the cart track to a junction. Here we turn right, then immediately left to descend further on the K trail. This was formerly a military road, so after the loess path, we cross a tank bridge. Here we find Rakottyás Lake. This small, inland lake has unfortunately dried up in recent years, though it was formerly an important breeding place for the local amphibian fauna. The name "rakottya" is the old name of the shrub species scotch broom willow.

After the bird-themed educational trail board, turning right and then again right on the mowed road, and at the end of the straight section keeping left, we can make a short detour to the now sadly dried-up Saint Spring, locally called the Ilona Spring enclosure. Descending into the small side valley under huge beech trees, we find the former water source, where in the first half of the 20th century, a steep path was divided by 45 sandstone steps. Several stories circulate around it. According to one, old Uncle Dencs once went to the forest on the Lord’s Day to cut tool poles. While working, he slipped and fell into a 6–7 m deep ravine next to him. Since he broke both legs, he couldn’t get out and called out for help bitterly. A man from Rezi heard his voice on the way from Zalaszántó but could not pull him out and went to the village for help. Finally, they lifted Uncle Dencs out with an ox-drawn cart. Afterwards, he promised not to go to such places on major holidays, and he thanked God for his rescue by having a small chapel built at the accident site, housing a statue of the Virgin Mary. The priest soon consecrated the building, which has been visited by many since.

We come out of the forest at the northern end of the field, from where we started the route, and turn right at the marshy, wooded area called Csuhus. "Csuhus" means a sedgy area, indicating its formerly wetter condition. We enter the village via Petőfi Street, passing a stone cross and the Laky Demeter tourist house, then turning left at the café, we return to the bus stop.