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Path The airy passage between Lykos and Marmara Beach. © Rolf GoetzPhoto: Rolf Goetz, Rother Bergverlag
In terms of natural experience, the Aradena Gorge is one of the great hikes in western Crete. In the picturesque Loutro, a coastal path with beautiful bathing bays begins; from Marmara Beach, you then climb a challenging trail through the canyon to the ghost village of Aradena. A noteworthy cross-domed church there is one of the few remaining buildings of the once large mountain village. The reason the place has been abandoned for three generations is said to have been a blood feud. Perhaps it was also too arduous for many residents to only be able to reach and leave their home via a paved Kalderimi running through the gorge – the steel bridge has only existed since 1986. From the 138 m high bridge, you have an impressive view into the gorge. The round trip ends with the scenic descent back to the Libyan Sea.
From the ferry dock in Loutro, we stroll along the waterfront promenade towards the taverns, watching for a stairway leading off between the Daskalogiannis and Madares hotels after 75 m (not the stairway in front of the Daskalogiannis hotel). After a few minutes, this joins the E4, which we follow left uphill (yellow-black trail signs). Shortly after a gate, we stand on the backbone of the peninsula between the bays of Loutro and Finix, with the ruins of a Venetian castle on the left. We cross the peninsula, observing the mountain village of Livaniana and spotting the indentation of Aradena Gorge to the left. The path descends to the bay of Finix; a turnoff to the houses at the small boat dock is ignored. Instead, the bay is bypassed along its upper edge. Shortly after the Finix chapel, the E4 meets an asphalt road at a corrugated iron hut (garage); we follow this briefly downhill until the E4 continues slightly uphill after 15 m. We pass a blue-marked turnoff to Livaniana (our return
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Author
Rolf Goetz
Der gebürtige Schwarzwälder wandert bevorzugt auf Inseln, wo sich die Arbeit mit ein paar erholsamen Strandtagen kombinieren lässt. Neben Mallorca, Kreta und Zypern ist er auch auf Madeira, den Kanaren und anderen vom Wetter begünstigten Sonnenzielen unterwegs, im Sommer auch gerne auf Rügen und Hiddensee. Unterwegs begeistert ihn, was am Wegrand so alles blüht und wächst, angefangen von der alljährlich aufs Neue faszinierenden Mandelblüte bis hin zum tausendjährigen Olivenbaum. Außer Wanderführern sind von Rolf Goetz auch botanische Bestimmungsbücher zu der einen oder anderen seiner Lieblingsinseln erschienen. Der Autor lebt heute als freiberuflicher Reisejournalist in Berlin.
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