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Qafa e Valbonës The shady side of the Valbona Pass: snow at the end of May. © Max Bosse, Kathrin Bosse-SteinwegPhoto: Max Bosse, Kathrin Bosse-Steinweg, Rother Bergverlag
Crossing the pass is a pleasant start to a possible three-day loop hike beginning and ending in Thethi, but it’s also a popular hike for backpackers traveling from Valbona to Shkodra via Lake Koman. But residents on both sides of the mountain range still use the pass to trade goods. It’s simply faster than taking the road around the mountains. Several places to stop for refreshments help make the journey more enjoyable.
We start at the northern car bridge in Thethi on the east bank and follow the road upstream, following the sign for “Valbona.” After crossing the Përroi Shehu i Shllinave, we cut across two switchbacks; after the second one, we turn right at the signpost and head uphill toward Gjelaj. Right at the first house in Gjelaj, we turn left onto the path that climbs more steeply along a wall; soon we pass the first bar/café. We continue climbing until an arrow at the edge of the forest points us left toward the Bregu i Bubës flower meadow—a beautiful viewpoint. We continue climbing northeast and enter the forest, where we reach a water source and, one switchback further on, Zef Deda’s wooden bar, Rrgalla. It’s another 300 meters of elevation gain to Qafa e Valbonës (1,797 m) on the well-marked trail, which leads to the right of the rest stop, initially heading northeast into the forest. At the pass, trails lead to the right to a higher vantage point, from which you can overlook the Valbona
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