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Ascent After crossing the canyon, the path goes uphill in the morning shade. © Max Bosse, Kathrin Bosse-SteinwegPhoto: Max Bosse, Kathrin Bosse-Steinweg, Rother Bergverlag
We ascend along a canyon into a high valley inhabited by shepherds and further to the pass between Dhëmbel and Nëmerçka, which together form a mountain range. The breathtaking panorama compensates for the 600 meters of altitude gained: The view extends from the Vikos-Aoos National Park in Greece on the right over the Vjosa Valley with the town of Përmet lying below us and the Bredhi i Hotovës National Park opposite, to the Tomorr on the left. The descent offers more beautiful viewpoints and the opportunity to visit the church of Leusë and – almost at the destination – the Kongresi i Përmetit.
We leave Sheper on the road: From Anetas Guesthouse, we go past the church to the left uphill and then past the school, monument, village square, and the former Leninist-Marxist center. At this point, we also see a signpost. (The indicated walking time for the ascent to Qafa e Dhëmbelit is generously set at 3 hours, whereas the descent to Leusë at 1 hour 45 minutes is rather tight.) Above the village on the gravel road, we turn right at the first intersection and shortly afterwards left at the second. About 100 meters further, we branch off from the road to the right, heading in the direction of a shepherd's hut. Between stables (left) and a bunker (right), we ascend. The path used for driving herds up and down initially ascends gently on the left side of the canyon, then a little steeper on the right but in the morning shade. We reach the high valley used as pasture at 1260 meters after about 1 hour 45 minutes. Don't be startled if dogs bark: The first shepherd's hut is on the right
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