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On the ascent / On the way to the Rienzboden, the Three Peaks slowly grow into the sky. © Evamaria Wecker, Primus WeckerPhoto: Evamaria Wecker, Primus Wecker, Rother Bergverlag
Of all places, the mighty rock fortress of the Western Peak, remote and dust-dry, is the guardian of an important source: At the foot of its forbidding north face, the Rienz springs from an idyllic lake. It rages merrily through the wild Rienz valley, feeds the Toblach lake with its waters, and flows as a broad river through the Puster Valley, finally emptying into the Eisack at Brixen. A comfortable hiking trail runs through the cool valley, cleverly outwitting the steep valley end with boldly designed loops and leads into the wide high valley of the Rienzboden, perhaps the most beautiful spot in the Dolomites: dominated by the north faces of the Three Peaks, the young Rienz meanders through the alpine meadow where only the ringing of cowbells breaks the silence. The heavily frequented circular hike around the Three Peaks is still far away and only touches the Rienzboden at the very edge. The source lake of the Rienz is also off the tourist track, a mystical place, sheltered by the huge north face of the Western Peak and with beautiful reflections of the Sexten mountains.
From the parking lot at the Hotel Dreizinnenblick, a gravel track leads over the Rienz floodplain (magnificent view of the Cristallo massif) into the Rienz valley. The wide path becomes narrower and more beautiful the further we go into the valley, the roar of the Rienz accompanies our hike, and by the latest at the Zirmboden, 1900 m, a romantic larch meadow, we have earned a rest. From Zirmboden we hike, surprisingly easily, in long loops over the steep drop of the valley end, past a small waterfall, to the picturesque Rienzboden, approx. 2170 m. We stroll through the high valley, encounter the junction to the Three Peaks hut, 2220 m, and join for a short stretch the wide hiking trail of the Three Peaks circuit in the direction of Auronzohütte. This leads steeply and gravelly up to the high plateau and over the Lange Alpe, with a magnificent view of the north faces of the Great and Western Peaks, to Langalm, 2235 m. There, the young Rienz crosses our path and we leave the wide tourist
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