The Lötschen Pass offers the most spectacular scenery and is the most historically interesting pass hike across the main range of the Bernese Alps. Three arrowheads dating from around 3500 B.C. were recovered from the Lötschen Glacier, and Roman coins were found at the top of the pass. Although the old route is called the “Roman Road,” its retaining walls are part of the “Grafenried Road,” which the Bernese built up to the pass summit in 1698. The people of Valais, however, wanted nothing to do with extending the road into the Lötschental; the memory of bloody battles was still too vivid. Today, there is the Lötschberg Tunnel, which opened in 1913, and the Lötschberg Base Tunnel has been open since 2007. The two tunnels marked on the Swiss national map intersect on the Lötschberg, right on the cantonal border. A coincidence, perhaps? A symbol, certainly! Up there, we also leave the Gastere Valley behind us with its seemingly insurmountable cliffs, and to the south we catch sight of the four-thousand-meter peaks of Valais.
From the Sunnbüel valley station, head toward the narrow gorge on the left, which marks the entrance to the Gasterntal. After the trail crosses the Kander for the second time via a bridge, the Gasterntal slowly opens up in all its splendor. After crossing the right tributary of the Kander, we soon reach the charmingly situated Waldhus inn. Continue along the flat valley floor—partly on a gravel road, partly on hiking trails, sometimes to the left, sometimes to the right of the Kander—until the trail meets the main road just before Selden. After 200 m, the red-and-white-marked trail branches off to the right, leading past the Änderwasser alpine huts near Groppi—a detour via the Selden inns takes only a few extra minutes. The trail winds past waterfalls up to the Gfelalp mountain lodge and across alpine meadows to the Schönbüel high alpine pasture (which truly lives up to its name). The red-and-white-marked route zigzags up to the Balme scree slope, where, a few meters further down, we
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