Kürnbach - old borderland between Württemberg, Hesse and Baden
Günther Weinert
Do you know what a condominium is? The circular hike passes through 3 former dominions. Until 1810, Kürnbach was Hessian and Württembergian, then Hessian and Baden, and from 1905 only Baden. Its history is also documented by old boundary stones still standing by the wayside. Along the hike, we cross these historic borders several times.
It was published on 21.9.2018 under the title "Borderland between three countries" in the Stuttgarter Nachrichten.
The Schwarzriesling village Kürnbach is shaped by the transition between Stromberg and Kraichgau. While the landscape in the valley with its vineyards presents itself cozily, the plateau offers magnificent views into the Zabergäu and to Michaelsberg, the witness hill of Stromberg. Here we also encounter the historically significant Eppinger Lines and the sculpture trail with its installations. Furthermore, next to the hiking route in the Seelach area is a fantastic forest lake (image 10). A short detour to the lake is worthwhile.
Kürnbach has published an informative, illustrated brochure with a local tour. Based on 40 stations, impressive buildings as well as worth-seeing half-timbered houses are described and interesting historical personalities introduced.
As the pictures show, the route is very varied and eventful in many respects and is far from highways and major roads.
Not far from Kürnbach lies the Maulbronn Monastery. Maulbronn is considered the best-preserved medieval monastery north of the Alps. UNESCO World Heritage Site. See also the circular hike "Maulbronn Monastery - from the monastery through Stromberg to Freudenstein and Hohenklingen". Link: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/kraichgau-stromberg/kloster-maulbronn-vom-kloster-durch-den-stromberg-nach-freudenstein/123463505/
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Plag's WeinstubeWinzergenossenschaft Kürnbach
Plag's Weinstube
Winzergenossenschaft Kürnbach
Safety information
Pleasant, unproblematic paths!Tips and suggestions
More hikes worth doing:
- Aurich - idyllic Kreuzbachtal
- Bebenhausen - a monastery, a hunting lodge and lots of Schönbuch!
- Burg Hohenneuffen - I have to go there!
- Erlenbach/Dahn - Berwartstein and Drachenfels
- Gundelsheim - through the popular Fünfmühlental to the falconry Burg Guttenberg
- Helfenberg - ruins and castles near and far
- Heubach/Rosenstein - caves, views and a ruin
- Hohenhaslach - over the Freudental Jewish cemetery to the Pfeifer cabin
- Kleiningersheim - the church stays in the village!
- Klingenmünster - castles, viewpoints and fountains
- Kürnbach - old borderland between Württemberg, Hesse and Baden
- Markgröningen - Leudelsbachtal and Enztal
- Mühlacker - the Enz bends near Mühlhausen
- Mühlbach - to the Ottilienberg pilgrimage church
- Nothweiler - 4 castles and 1 mine
- Oberöwisheim - hollow way hike in Kraichgau
- Ochsenbach - over the Stromberg ridge to the Blankenhorn ruin
- Seibelseckle - to the Wildsee and Darmstädter hut
- Solitude/Bärenschlössle - where the king once hunted
- Untergrombach - from Michaelsberg to the Jewish cemetery
- From Lichtenstein Castle to the Nebelhöhle cave
- Wiesensteig - Fils source, Schertel cave and Reußenstein
- ... and here are even more circular hikes:
https://www.outdooractive.com/de/autor/guenther-weinert-wanderfex/105872506/
Roadbook
The hike begins at the market square of Kürnbach, between the town hall and the Protestant church. Historic buildings document the history of the condominium (see appendix; see pictures).
This is the way:
- First, follow Lammstraße, the Geringer Winkel, then turn right into Bachstraße and then left into Klosterstraße. On the left is the moated castle, although without a moat.
- Follow Klosterstraße towards the forest. On the left is the Schlosswiesensee and shortly afterwards, on a steep path upwards, directly at the edge of the forest, the barbecue hut “Steinmetz.”
- If you deviate from the hiking trail uphill a few steps later and turn left, you will reach a viewpoint.
- After the barbecue hut, this hiking trail meets the “Eppinger-Linien-Weg” (chartaque on a white background). This hiking trail leads about 3.5 km up through the forest and over the plateau ...
- ... until it meets the “Frankenweg” (HW8; red stripe on a white background). The “red stripe” continues right over the plateau towards the south.
- At the Leonbronn sports field, the “Eppinger-Linien-Weg” takes over again. Turn right and follow the path first along the forest edge, then into the forest and down the path. After about 800 m, leave the “Eppinger-Linien-Weg” and walk straight down to the valley. The vineyards are located to your right further along, and on the left are the meadows and the stream.
- At the bottom of the valley at a path junction, walk straight a few more steps, then follow the meadow path half-right, which later leads into a hollow way. Shortly thereafter, you will have reached the moated castle and village center.
Stories by the wayside:
The Michael's Church in Kürnbach, which houses one of the most beautiful Renaissance gravestones of our homeland and shows the last two local nobles, Bernhard von Sternenfels and his wife, as well as the striking crucifix and the rib vault, can also be visited additionally. In a small village tour, which leads to the Baden and Hessian grape presses and to former Württemberg inns with their magnificent pub signs, the term condominium is explained. Kürnbach was a unique legal case since 1479. It was two-thirds Hessian and one-third Württembergian, then from 1810 Baden. There were two civil registries, two municipal treasuries, two grape presses, and two mayors who took turns "directing." Citizenship was determined by the location of the house. For example, if a Hessian moved into a Baden house by marriage, he was immediately a Baden native. Most of the forest belonged to Hesse and only came to Baden-Württemberg by exchange in 1983.
Kürnbach has two famous female citizens. The seer F. Hauffe, known as the seeress of Prevorst, and F. Löffler, who in 1791 initiated a revolution in the kitchen with her cookbook "Economic Handbook for Women." The first comprehensive, also easily understandable guide to cooking spread worldwide, was published 38 times in total, and was often the only book in a household besides the Bible.
The many border stones by the wayside were of great importance for centuries. Whoever changed the position of a boundary stone was a criminal and was severely punished. The threat that the offender would find no peace in the afterlife but had to wander as a ghost by the stone helped protect the stones.
On the plateau over which the hike leads is the oldest stone cross of the upper Zabergäu with its strange inscription “DAS HAEIST AN DEM SILUDACKER ANO 155?“ and the coat of arms of the Lords of Sternenfels. The simplest explanation is that it is an atonement cross that recalls a murder or a guilt (Losch). Allegedly, two shepherds killed each other here or two farmers fought with scythes over a girl. But why then the inscription and coat of arms? People at that time could not read. Atonement crosses were often decorated with pictorial representations and indicate the profession of the murdered person. Another explanation sees the cross and inscription as a symbol related to a lease agreement or a field name. It could also be that the Sternenfels, due to hunting disputes, wanted to "mark" their territory. After 500 years, this mystery about the cross is difficult to solve.
Steinmetzhütte
Michaelskirche
Wasserschloss
Plag's Weinstube
Winzergenossenschaft Kürnbach
Plag's Weinstube
Winzergenossenschaft Kürnbach
Adventure-Golf
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Public bus transportDirections
From Oberderdingen or Sulzfeld via L593 and from Sternenfels via L1134Parking
Simply park in the village center at the church or town hallCoordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Brochure for a local history walk:
http://www.kuernbach.de/fileadmin/documents/ortsrundgang_prospekt_Doppelseiten-2013_web.pdf
Author’s map recommendations
Map of the Swabian Alb Association, volume 6, Bretten
Scale 1:35,000
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Normal hiking clothing and shoesLocalization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions