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Facklmühle Rind at the Facklmühle. © Sebastian SteudePhoto: Sebastian Steude, Rother Bergverlag
The municipality of Thyrnau is located in the Ilz-Erlau Highlands, a plateau rising up to 532 m between the Ilz and Erlau rivers. The area was settled early on, as indicated by Kellberg’s pre-Germanic name: “kel” is said to mean “hill” in Celtic. Kellberg lies on the old trade route leading to the Celtic settlement of Boiodurum (today’s Passau). Kellberg also enjoys a favorable climate: Due to natural temperature inversion, the higher-elevation areas are often warmer in winter, while the valleys crisscrossed by streams are used primarily as pastureland. Today, the highlands are a paradise for hikers, as several dozen exceptionally well-marked trails and loop routes wind their way around Thyrnau.
At the Kurgästehaus in Kellberg, we follow St.-Blasius-Straße past the church to the intersection at the Kirchenwirt. There, we continue straight ahead along the Kurpromenade (PA29) to the next intersection. Here, we turn right onto Lindenstraße and, after about 150 m, left onto Birketweg. The trail leads us out of Kellberg and then gently uphill through open fields. At a signpost, we turn right toward the nearby König-Maximilian-Höhe, named after King Maximilian II, who “on July 21, 1852, enjoyed the beautiful view from this spot, much to the delight of the Kellberg parish.” We continue to enjoy an unobstructed view: The vista stretches from the Neuburger Forest across the Sauwald and the Bavarian Forest all the way to the Bohemian Forest. On a clear day, you can even make out the Dachstein and the Watzmann—and, if you’re lucky, count 36 church steeples. From the lookout point, we follow the small road down a few meters to the restaurant “Am König-Max-Stein” in Wingersdorf. We then
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