Karnischer Höhenweg - a different approach

Karnischer Höhenweg - something for border crossers

Overcoming borders with a hike. Because of World War I, the language border here became the effective border between Austria and Italy. Many fallen on both sides make this battlefield a Peace Trail. A high-altitude trail for long-distance hikers, but also something for culinary highlights in this version. We start in Sillian, right after the Italian border. The first day promises altitude meters. We hike steeply upwards from Sillian, following the Karnischer Höhenweg marking, along the forest upwards to Leckfeldalm. Here we soon reach the tree line and arrive sweaty at the Sillianerhütte, our first stage goal. Here, a hearty dinner awaits us, and we stay overnight. The next day we already feel the shoulders from the fully packed backpack. However, for a long-distance hike, it is almost normal that the first days serve as an adaptation phase. Along the ridge, we repeatedly meet gun positions, which are silent witnesses of this cruel war. Past small "lakes" we come to a Standschützen cemetery of World War I and quietly remember the fallen. It continues to the Obstanzer See with the hut of the same name. We do not stay here overnight but skip a stage and ascend to Rosskopftörl, then further to the Standschützenhütte and past the Filmoorhütte, until we reach our 2nd stage destination, the Porzehütte, after about 9 hours. After a well-deserved refreshment, we fall dog-tired into bed. The next day we start more leisurely. After a small ascent to Tilliacher Joch, we enter Italy. Past Malga Campobon into Val di Londo, to Malga Cecido, down to Malga Manzon, Malga Chiastellin, Malga Antola, and Malga Chivion. Here the downward section ends, and a new ascent begins past Monte Peralba to Passo del Oregone. After reaching this, a further descent follows until we soon reach our next stage goal, the Hochweißsteinhaus. Slowly we recover from the initial shoulder pain, and also forget the tough stage of day 2. The next day we go up a small pass, the Italian alpine pasture hike continues at Casera Fleons and then past mountain lakes, bizarre rock formations, and memorial plaques for the war stations on the mountain in WWI. Finally, we reach Passo Giramondo, which we leave behind and descend back into Austria. After an interesting trail, we come to the upper Wolayer Alm and again ascend to our stage goal, the Wolayerseehütte. This new, modern hut with a fantastic view of the Wolayersee offers every comfort that a mountain hut can provide. Only the tough ones manage a swim in this lake after a strenuous hike. A visit to Rifugio Lambertenghi, located 5 minutes further on the Italian side, should definitely be attempted. The hut is a bit aged, but the campfire romance, the special beer, and the rustic delicacies convince the spoiled palate. After a night in the luxury mountain hut at Wolayersee, we decide on a different variant of the Karnischer Höhenweg. We continue down the Italian side and want to reach Rifugio Marinelli. Anyone who does not shy away from smaller path sections and is sure-footed can choose the climbing path just below Rifugio Lambertenghi. If the cliff scares someone, they have to descend to the valley to Plan di Val Bos and then ascend to Rifugio Marinelli. This rifugio is only our culinary stage destination. The cook Caterina is not only vocally powerful but also a passionate cook who conjures up unique dishes of the region, definitely worth a sin and making this detour of the Karnischer Höhenweg a must. Anyone there should definitely try the homemade gnocchi and the national dish "frico friulana." We leave our gourmet temple behind, descend to the valley past rock walls, until we reach Plöckenpass. Here we feel transported back to World War I. The inn at the pass could be from this time, and the dilapidated barracks have experienced several wars. We stay overnight here at the inn, which offers little comfort besides good food. The next day we go uphill at Plöckenpass to the Großer Pal, where a war museum awaits us that overshadows everything seen so far. The entire mountain was a fortress, and this open-air museum impressively portrays what happened back then. We leave the World War impressively behind and go to Freikofelsattel and down to Cellonsee. Here we are back on the original Karnischer Höhenweg. We ascend to Gasthof Valentinalm where our Karnischer Höhenweg journey ends. The high trail would continue for a few more days. We are content with this variant with an Italian flair.