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Mecklenburgband Über kleine Felskuppen geht es zum markanten Mecklenburgband, das sich nach rechts leicht zur Gipfelrinne und zum Nordanstieg hin senkt. © Sepp BrandlPhoto: Sepp Brandl, Rother Bergverlag
The ascent to the Hoher Dachstein is not easy from any side; even on the easiest route using the Dachstein cable car, it demands a good amount of mountaineering experience and stable good weather conditions in summer. The duration of the ascent largely depends on the current difficulties at the summit structure and the individual skill of the climbers, who are quite numerous on nice summer days. The view from the almost 3000-meter-high pinnacle of Hoher Dachstein extends from the Czech Republic to Slovenia in good visibility, and the mountain experience matches its boldness and majesty; for many, it has been and continues to be the highlight of a mountain vacation in every respect.
From the mountain station at Hunerkogel, we descend on a staircase to the firn field of the Hallstätter Glacier and then follow the prepared track to the lowest point of the route at the Dirndlkolk, a huge wind-sculpted funnel on the northeast base of the Niedere Dirndl. In a wide left bend, the path leads to a glacier flattening, from where – only 5 minutes from the Dachsteinwarte – we branch off right towards the nearby rock base of the east ridge spur. The start shows no artificial protections on the first few climbing meters (about II), but then a steel cable takes over leading to the summit, making the excellently prepared route practically impossible to miss. Solid rock with stable holds and steps make the airy, varied, and scenic ascent over the east shoulder under dry, snow- and ice-free conditions a real pleasure for experienced climbers. Before the shoulder, the summit view opens up. The route here veers slightly right before a rock ledge (spread step) leads back to the ridge
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