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Wegweiser Auf dem Weg zur Crête. © Matthias Schopp, Benjamin HerrmannPhoto: Matthias Schopp, Benjamin Herrmann, Rother Bergverlag
"Where there is much light, there is strong shadow" – this sentence from Goethe's "Götz von Berlichingen" seems tailor-made for Alsace. A prime example is this little loop. Along with the breathtaking panorama over the Rhine Plain, the Southern Black Forest, and the Alps that we can enjoy from the far eastward summit of Molkenrain and the terrace of the Ferme-Auberge located just below the ridge, there is also the Hartmannsweilerkopf (Hartmannswillerkopf or Vieil Armand) directly at our feet, the most notorious Alsatian battlefield of the First World War.
From the parking lot at the Route des Crêtes, we go a few steps north and find signposts as well as the red rectangle. We follow it to the right. Our path always runs below the road but proves to be a wild romantic hiking trail crossing steep forest slopes in constant ups and downs. At Col du Silberloch, 906 m, the path joins the Route des Crêtes, which we follow to the left around the sharp right curve. We first pass the large French military cemetery; just behind it, we find the new "Historial," opened on November 10, 2017, by Presidents Emmanuel Macron and Frank-Walter Steinmeier, with a permanent exhibition about the battles at Hartmannsweilerkopf, as well as the development of German-French friendship. (Opening hours on weekdays 10 am–5 pm, on Sundays and holidays 10 am–6 pm, closed Mondays and during the winter months.)Between the military cemetery and the memorial site, a small lane branches off to the left; among the markings there, we select the red ring. It first leads us to
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