Bowfell (DEC 2014)

PLEASE NOTE: The GPX trace on this route is for use as a guide only, its accuracy may change depending on the scale of map you are using. Use in combination with judgement and a paper map. We have taken all reasonable steps to ensure these walks are safe and correctly described. However things do change and all outdoor activities involve a degree of risk. The publishers accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions or for any injuries or accidents that occur whilst following this walk. Trail magazine, Copyright Bauer Media Limited.

Distance 13.7km (8½ miles)
Total ascent 1036m
Time 7 hours
Start/finish small layby at NY245017
Nearest town Coniston
Terrain typical Lake District terrain with grassy and rocky sections; some of the route is pathless and is not recommended in poor weather conditions
Accommodation The Woolpack Inn, Boot (019467) 23230www.woolpack.co.uk;
Eskdale Youth Hostel 0845 371 9317 www.yha.org.uk; Forest How Guest House, Eskdale Green (019467) 23201 www.foresthow.co.uk
Public transport train to Ravenglass then to the hamlet of Boot using the Ravenglass & Eskdale steam railway (www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk)
Tourist info www.eskdale.info 
Best pub The Woolpack Inn, Boot


Esk Pike, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags are some of the most famous fells in the Lake District, and rightly so: the views from them are fantastic and the ridge linking them must rank as one of the finest there is. While the main path is always likely to be busy, there is a quiet way to reach them using the back door across wild and rugged terrain that is perfect for a full day walk away from the hustle  and bustle of everyday life.

This route uses remote and little-visited Moasdale between the passes of Hardknott and Wrynose to reach the south ridge of Esk Pike. While mainly pathless, the climb to Pike de Bield and Esk Pike really does offer some fantastic views to the Scafells and displays the best side of England’s finest peaks. The walk to Bowfell, one of the grandest summits of all, takes the main (and clear) path but the rewards  of reaching it are tangible with perhaps the best panorama of the Scafells there is from anywhere.

The continuation across the Three Tarns and Crinkle Crags makes this a really interesting walk with lots of undulations and separate tops that lie slightly off the main path.  After Crinkle Crags has been traversed, once more there is  a return to calm, solitude and peacefulness. The often ignored top of Little Stand has pools  and tarns in abundance, and  is a fascinating and wild area. The final sting in the tail of  this walk is the rough and steep descent through boulders to reach Cockley Beck. This aside, you will find this route offers  one of the most rewarding days you can spend on the fells. 

NY245017 There are spaces for a couple of cars at the roadside just above Cockley Beck. A path marked by a wooden post leaves the road to the right after a short walk towards Hardknott Pass. Climb the easy gradient above Moasdale Beck to reach the boggy basin of Moasdale. Be inspired by the emerging vista as the Scafells come into view, a truly wonderful scene. Keep left and high to circumnavigate the worst of the bog and climb to a col. In the middle distance lies the gracefully curving south ridge climbing to Esk Pike. Descend directly to Lingcove Beck, then cross it and climb to the right of the rocky knoll of Pianet Knott. The gradient eases passing Long Crag and Low Gait Crags.

NY230058 It is worth a small detour to the top of High Gait Crags for a fine view across Great Moss to the panorama of the Scafells. The south ridge to Esk Pike is south-east; cross to it and find a largely pathless route over Greenhole Crags then over Yeastyrigg Crags, keeping to the highest part of the ridge. At a long tarn in a depression, round the crags ahead to the left to climb between two rocky knolls. To the left is Pike de Bield; walk beyond it and double back for the easiest way to climb to the rock platform with a small cairn.
NY236068 Pike de Bield offers fabulous and striking views to the whole Scafell range. Continue the short climb to the north-east, passing a prominent memorial cairn to reach the main path to Esk Pike summit.

NY237075 The summit of Esk Pike is characterised by the white rocks that litter the area and is marked with a cairn. Descend south-east on a clear path to cross Ore Gap with its red earth. From there it is a straightforward drag to reach Bowfell (the path is cairned throughout).

NY245064 Bowfell summit is an unmissable pyramid, and clambering over shattered rocks is required to reach the very top. The reward is some of the finest views the Lake District has to offer, and arguably the finest view of all of the Scafells. Descend again to the south-east, passing the large and sloping Great Slab to the col and path junction of Three Tarns. Directly across Three Tarns heading southwards, follow the path that climbs to Crinkle Crags. The path is cairned but can be tricky to navigate in poor visibility; in this case always stick to the path. It can be tricky to find the Crinkles but first pass an unnamed but prominent rocky peak, through a boggy area with tarns to pass Shelter Crags; afterwards the first three Crinkles come in quick succession.

NY248049 The summit of Crinkle Crags is Long Top; it has a cairn on top of a rock plinth. From the cairn head to the west, passing Crinkle Crags Tarn (the highest in England) to find an easy way of descent avoiding the notorious ‘bad step’. Skirt the base of the crags before rejoining the main path to climb over the final Crinkle. As the main path descends from the top, leave it as it turns west and head directly south along an intermittent grass path aiming for the rock platform on top of Stonesty Pike. Continue in the same direction, descending to a grassy depression; then there is one final ascent to Little Stand. 

NY250034 A prominent cairn marks the top of Little Stand. This area is off the beaten track but the pools and tarns below the summit are lovely. Descend the corridor below the summit to a sloping grassy area. Descend between the first two rocky knolls and thread a way through the rocks to the gate in the intake wall visible below. Pick up the track descending the line of a small beck (Clemety Sike) to the corner of the field. All that remains is the fording of Moasdale Beck and a short walk up the road to return to the car.