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Bad Ems: Sophisticated spa architecture in Bad Ems. © Thorsten LensingPhoto: Thorsten Lensing, Rother Bergverlag
Belle Époque and Art Nouveau—two terms inextricably linked to Bad Ems. The magnificent spa architecture transports the viewer back to a time when aristocrats, artists, and writers enjoyed their spa stays here. Among them were Emperor Wilhelm I, Tsar Alexander II, King George IV of England, Jacques Offenbach, Fyodor Dostoevsky, Richard Wagner, Victor Hugo, and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. However, it is not only the many magnificent buildings—such as the Spa Palace, the Kursaal, and the Fountain Hall—that make Bad Ems so unique. Its location in the narrow Lahn Valley, with its steep, forested slopes, also contributes to its popularity. Anyone wishing to explore both should take this tour.
Strictly speaking, in terms of natural geography, the Rheingau and the Middle Rhine Valley are not part of the Taunus. The Taunus ends somewhere between the last rows of trees on the hill visible from the banks of the Rhine. Despite these geographical definitions, I have decided to include a few hikes located just outside the Taunus proper, because both the Rheingau and the romantic Rhine Valley are too magnificent to simply view from the heights of the Taunus or to ignore altogether. I also consider a separate category appropriate, as these spectacular wine-growing and river landscapes stand out quite distinctly from the Vorder-, Hoch-, and Hintertaunus on the one hand, and from the tranquil Lahn Valley on the other. Between Wiesbaden and Lorch, where the Rhine briefly turns westward, lies the largest part of the Rheingau—with its vast vineyards, castles, and monasteries, a region straight out of a picture book. Protected from cool north winds by the terraced mountain slopes, this
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