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Valley Between Thethi and Okoli. © Max Bosse, Kathrin Bosse-SteinwegPhoto: Max Bosse, Kathrin Bosse-Steinweg, Rother Bergverlag
Actually, the Arapi (Maja e Arapit) is just a peak in Europe’s largest karst region, vanishingly small between Jezerca, 2694 m, and Radohima, 2568 m. But anyone who has seen it from the south inevitably feels drawn to the summit, which is 2217 meters high. The wall rises 800 meters above the valley. It is called the "Matterhorn of Albania" by travelers from the West, while the locals call it the Dark One. From the green meadow at the Peja Pass, we enter a maze of gray, sharp rocks reminiscent of Emyn Muil from the Lord of the Rings trilogy. The second part of the film trilogy could have been shot here in the Albanian highlands. But instead of the deadly swamps after the bizarre-picturesque karst, a view stretches far into Montenegro. And to prevent anyone from getting lost like the wandering hobbits, many small rock towers were stacked for orientation.
From the northern road bridge in Thethi, we follow the road on the east bank of the Thethi river upstream towards Arapi and cross a brook. At the following junctions, we follow the direction signs to Qafa e Pejës and continue along the valley. At the pedestrian bridge to Okoli, a district located on the left side of the river, we temporarily leave the road, which makes a right turn, and continue along the river. Back on the road, we follow it to a small bar. Here, we take the right path heading northeast, pass the bar and a spring 150 m further.We cross several wide, dry brook beds; orientation is aided by markers, the cardinal direction (northeast), and the overhanging rock wall with its yellow-colored slanted layers. After leaving the coniferous forest, we climb more steeply towards this wall. The following hairpin bends lead us after 3.5 hours to Qafa e Pejës; it’s another 2 hours to the summit. The entrance is on the left side at the north end of the narrow pass meadow. A thick red
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