Smiling saints in the realm of rivers

Itinerary

• From Vásárosnamény train station, take Rákóczi Street straight to the city center. Upon reaching Szabadság Square, turn right, then immediately left at the first traffic light! From here, a straight road leads to the bridge spanning the Tisza River.
• After crossing over the Tisza, at the roundabout turn right immediately, cross the main road 41, then turn onto the dike. From here to Tivadar, just follow the dike, you cannot get lost.
• Upon arriving in Tivadar, leaving the church on the dike, the road reaches a fork where you should head toward Tarpa. After passing the dry mill in Tarpa and riding a few hundred meters, turn left at the intersection toward Vásárosnamény!
• One and a half kilometers from the border of Tarpa, you reach the Hetefejércse junction; turn right here! Passing through Hetefejércse, you arrive at the border of Csaroda – to visit the church, turn right, then in the village at the roundabout turn right again, and at the next fork turn right once more.
• Heading toward Tákos, go back along the previously described route to the border of Csaroda, where at the Hetefejércse junction you can get onto the dike – from here the road naturally leads to Tákos. From the dike, you have a clear view of the "barefoot Notre Dame," the church of Tákos.
• From the Tákos church, return to the dike, which leads all the way to Gergelyiugornya – crossing the main road 41. Riding along Beregszászi Street, you reach the already familiar Tisza bridge in Vásárosnamény, where the tour started.

Detailed tour description

Imagine a 14th-century church, where entering you are greeted by saints smiling from original frescoes, or where you can discover the centuries-old treasures of the wooden coffered ceiling and the millstone under the pulpit. The road of medieval churches is one of the most significant heritage tourism routes in the Carpathian Basin, composed of 62 medieval churches of unparalleled beauty.

The road of medieval churches

This nearly 10-year-old thematic route connects medieval Reformed churches, but travelers can also discover castles, mansions, and literary historical memorial sites. It is worth visiting these cultural heritages not only in the settlements of Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg county (and beyond the national border) but also in Partium and Carpathian Ruthenia. The region has the largest number of medieval churches in Hungary. Those wishing to complete the entire route by bike should expect to cycle an average of 60-80 kilometers daily – flat rides consistent with the geographical characteristics of the Plain – which, with many stops and sightseeing, are achievable for almost everyone.

Why does this area have the highest number of medieval churches lined up, while on the Plain it is generally difficult to find old churches, most of which fell victim to Ottoman rule? The answer lies in several factors: first, the region of Szabolcs-Szatmár-Bereg was always marshy, swampy land, so former eastern enemies could not reach it. Second, early religious converts lived here, turning to the Reformed faith already in the early 16th century; Protestant communities always clung to their ancestors’ values and thus preserved the churches. Poverty also contributed to the preservation: there was no money in the region to build large Baroque churches. The oldest, an early 11th-century Árpád-age church, is in Szabolcs village. Saint Ladislaus also held a synod here. The Csaroda church is known for its smiling saints, and the Tákos church should not be missed during the tour. The Medieval Churches Road app can assist travelers, offering bike route options and including all attractions and important services (beaches, distilleries, kayak and bike rentals, etc.).

The story of Zoárd and Gergely

In the heart of Bereg, every first weekend of July, the Zoárd-napi Sokadalom event is held in Vásárosnamény, honoring the town’s namesake. According to legend, Zoárd, brother-in-law of Álmós leader, encouraged his knight Gergely when they reached the Tisza: “Ugor nya!” - meaning “Jump then!”. After the knight crossed the river, he received another order: “Na mény!” – “Go on then!”. Thus, Gergelyi and Ugornya (today's Gergelyiugornya) and Vásárosnamény were named – these three parts now form a single town.

In Vásárosnamény, the Beregi Museum, built in 1728 as the Lónyay family’s castle, exhibits permanent and temporary displays about the region’s life, from Bereg linen to the mourning items typical of the area and Bereg artistic and household cast iron works. Next to the museum is the Hunor Hotel, established in two former granaries; additionally, a hunting exhibition is on one of the upper floors. The passionate hunter owner showcases trophies he has taken worldwide in this tastefully furnished space. The local Tourinform office is well-prepared to welcome cyclists, offering a service point and rentable bikes and e-bikes at the office on the corner of the main square.

From the city center, starting beside the Reformed church and crossing the Tisza bridge, we begin exploring Bereg. Immediately on the opposite riverbank, the Gergelyiugornya beach invites visitors to stop in summer. On the river embankments, the top-quality asphalt allows peaceful cycling in all seasons. Currently, there are 336 kilometers of asphalted or stabilized dike roads for cyclists in the region, with an additional 85 kilometers expected to be built by 2020. No vehicles disturb riders; hardly any people are seen for long kilometers.

Dry mill, wooden coffer

We leave the dike at Tivadar to enjoy low-traffic roads. There is also a beach in the river’s bend, perfect for a refreshing stop in summer before heading toward Tarpa. The charming small village boasts many attractions, first among them on our route is the dry mill. In almost every village in Northern Tiszántúl, dry mills were built; for instance, Tarpa once had six similar mills and one windmill. The oak-shingle-roofed mill is the only dry mill in the region preserved in its original location and in very good condition. It is worth visiting Bereg’s largest church for its paneled ceiling and the medieval murals that make the church unique.

From Tarpa, we head to Csaroda via Hetefejércse – it was astonishing to travel almost 10 kilometers without encountering any vehicles. Around us are neatly ordered orchards, including the famous Szatmár plums. The next treasure is discovered in Csaroda: surrounded by small houses, rising from the floodplains of the Csaroda creek, the late Romanesque style Reformed church is a real little jewel. Its uniqueness comes from the murals from the pre-Reformation era, folk-style floral motifs, and the wooden coffered ceiling. Near the village boundary lies Bábtava, a so-called raised bog, covered by peat moss overrun with Ice Age relic plants. This special natural attraction can only be visited with a guide.

Continuing toward Tákos, a short section must be ridden on the busy road 41, but at the Hetefejércse junction, you can get onto the dike, which leads almost directly to the small church of the neighboring village. The “barefoot Notre Dame” is presented to visitors by a kind elderly local lady. You can learn everything about the timber-framed, clay-walled building, an outstanding artistic work of 18th-century folk architecture. Numerous symbols and motifs can be seen on the painted wooden coffered ceiling; the building is also unique due to the gallery for children and the three built-in millstones. Opposite the church is the local heritage house; local women offer Bereg cross-stitch embroidered textiles, or even meals and accommodation for the tired traveler.

From Tákos, cycling along the dike we reach the border of Gergelyiugornya, where crossing road 41, we can continue along quiet streets back to the already visited Tisza bridge at the start of the tour, which has a bike path continuing all the way to Vásárosnamény’s main square. The approximately 60-kilometer tour fits into a day due to many points of interest, but the joy of discovery, the friendliness of the locals, and the feeling of unique peace stay with us for a long time – with pleasant memories and unexplored nearby sights inviting a return.