Loch Katrine

If you could imagine the perfect Highland scene, it would surely contain a peaceful loch, ringed by hills and mountains and untroubled by the noise and clamour of motor vehicles and all the rush and bustle of modern life. Well, Loch Katrine has it all – and more besides. There was a time when this area was virtually unknown and it was the huge popularity of the 19th century writer Sir Walter Scott who did more than anything to change opinion by praising the beauties of the Trossachs, and in particular the area round this loch, the setting for The Lady of The Lake and Rob Roy. It is fitting that his name is remembered in one of the loch’s greatest attractions.

There are only two approaches to Loch Katrine by road, from the southwest along a minor road to Stronachlachar or rather more easily along the main roads from Callander or Aberfoyle. All roads end at the water’s edge: there are no motor roads round the loch at all, a fact that greatly adds to its charm. There are, however, many advantages in taking the Callander route that brings you to Trossachs Pier. There are several different ways of exploring the area: there are walking and cycling trails through the surrounding forest, not as in much of Scotland a dense area of conifers but beautiful, mature woodland. There is also a wonderful way of enjoying the loch that is quite unique.

At the very end of the 19th century it was decided to increase the popularity of the area by providing trips on a steamer. A vessel was ordered from a Clydeside shipyard, which created something of a problem: how to get it to the site. So it was constructed in sections, delivered partly by water and partly overland by carts. The slim, elegant steamer was given the highly appropriate name Sir Walter Scott and puffed her way along the 13-mile long loch on her maiden voyage in 1900 – and has done so ever since. One of the more remarkable features about the old vessel is how little she has changed over the years. The only difference is that the boilers are now fed with biofuel instead of coal,

What is it that makes a steamer trip so different from an excursion by more modern vessels powered by diesel? You find out as soon as you set sail. There is none of the throbbing that so often seems to permeate the latter: the triple-expansion (three-cylinder) steam engine is a quiet, gentle beast and you seem to glide effortlessly over the water. Passengers can sit out on the open deck, under an awning and enjoy the scenery in blissful peace. And what scenery it is! The woodlands come right down to the rocky shore and there are panoramic views over the surrounding hills, rising to over 2,000 feet. There are waterfowl in plenty from the familiar mallards and geese to more exotic grebe, and looking up there is every chance of seeing a majestic bird of prey. Red kite have been reintroduced to the area and there is a possibility of catching sight of an osprey and even, if you are very lucky, a golden eagle. It is a delightful voyage, with ever changing views as the vessel follows the twists and turns of the loch. If all you want is a trip out on a boat, then you can get a ticket for the round trip and then, once you are back at the pier, go off on an exploration. There is, however, a very attractive alternative.

It is possible to get a one-way ticket between Trossachs Pier and Stronachlachar and then walk back the thirteen miles. Alternatively, if that seems a bit too much exercise, you can take your bicycle on the vessel for a very modest fee. You don’t even have to have a bike with you: they are available for hire at the pier. You might think that a well laid out trail that just keeps to the edge of a loch might be a bit boring, but that is certainly not the case here. Because of the lie of the land, with occasional rocky crags jutting out from the hillside, the route alternates between stretches where the track is right alongside the water’s edge to others where it is forced higher up the hill, sometimes into woodland and in places onto open moor. That means, of course, that this is also something of a switchback walk or ride. But the extra effort in climbing up is more than rewarded by the wonderful views that open out the higher you get. And the different scenery also offers chances to spot some of the more interesting species, including that elusive, attractive creature with the long bushy tail, the pine martin.

Whether you go for the lazy life on board or opt to walk, cycle or mix and match, one thing you can be sure of: you will have enjoyed Highland scenery at its finest.