High alpine route on the highest mountain of Tyrol from the Ötztal.
The Wildspitze from the Ötztal / Vent.
Author’s recommendation
Please maintain the customs on the mountain, even if greeting seems uncommon on well-known mountains. Griass Di, hello, servus, hy, ... to name the most common possibilities.
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Breslauer HütteSafety information
Depending on snow conditions.
Ice and/or snow-covered safety cables in the gully to the Mitterkar pass can significantly increase the difficulty.
The Taschachferner is a glacier with crevasses!
Roadbook
For weather reasons, we chose the ascent in one day. At 5 a.m. (early July is already bright then) start from Vent 1896m, just behind the sports and grocery shop, on a well-signposted path below the cable car, the hiking trail over Stabein to the Breslauer hut 2,840m. The section is indicated as 2.5 hours.
After the hut, continue northwest, following the markings or cairns into the Mitterkar. We soon encountered snowfields. The path mostly runs at the lowest point of the cirque towards northwest and then turns at about 3,260m towards south. The only fairly rockfall-free crossing out of the cirque becomes visible. For us, the snow gully extended to about 3,420m. The rock ridge was set up as a via ferrata (A-B), but here too the steel cable was still a few meters under snow. Ice axe and crampons are definitely necessary. At 3,468m the Mitterkarjoch is reached. Ahead lies the Taschachferner. The track leads in a large right curve over the steep section and crevasse zone between 3,500m and 3,600m. The steep northwest slope is climbed on the least steep, left side of the slope. Just before us, the track was probably covered by numerous snow slides. We go in a southern direction to the saddle at about 3,660m and continue the northwest ridge to the summit. Here too the conditions were variable, ice, snow, the last 50m climbing UIAA I. From the Breslauer hut the ascent is indicated as 3.5 hours.
Descent as ascent but easier on the knees with the chairlift. From the Breslauer hut the upper station of the lift "Wildes Mannle" is reachable in about 3/4 hour. Last descent 4:30 p.m. (as of 07/2020), last descent of the "Wildspitze" chairlift 5:00 p.m.
Mitterkarjoch
Wildspitze
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
The Ötztaler bus company runs from Ötztal train station to Vent (possibly 1 change in Zwieselstein), timetables at https://www.oetztaler.at/linienverkehr/Directions
A12 Inn Valley motorway to Ötztal exit, then about 35 km via Ötz, Längenfeld, Sölden to Zwieselstein. Turn here towards Vent. About 1 hour from the motorway exit. Or from South Tyrol Passeiertal via the Timmelsjoch, Hochgurgl to Zwieselstein, then turn towards Vent here.Parking
The parking lot for the chairlift is well signposted (€ 5.00/day), and at the beginning of the village on the right side there is also a signposted parking lot.Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Complete high alpine equipment including ice axe and crampons. Rockfall helmet recommended.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions