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At the parking lot in VentPhoto: Stephan Schlosser, Arrchiv Thomas Nippgen
Route to the highest mountain of the Ötztal Alps. The Wildspitze also the second highest mountain in Austria.
The Wildspitze is located in the Ötztal Alps in North Tyrol – and forms the highest peak there.
The ascent via the Mitterkar Joch from the south is the shortest ascent to the summit and was therefore very popular and heavily frequented in the past.
Today this ascent is not necessarily recommended anymore (see also safety instructions).
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Rest stops
Breslauer HütteSafety information
Meanwhile, the ascent to the Wildspitze via the Mitterkar and over the Mitterkarjoch is no longer recommended. In the upper area of the Mitterkar there is a considerable risk of rockfall due to permafrost thawing. This situation is further exacerbated by the south-facing orientation of the ascent.
Roadbook
From the Breslauer Hut through the Mitterkar following the tracks (in summer a path) to the Mitterkarjoch. From there onto the Taschach Glacier and across it eastwards to a steep rise. Over this in a left curve up into the uppermost glacier cirque of the Taschach Glacier. Ascend through the glacier cirque to a snow shoulder at the beginning of the final ridge to the Wildspitze. Over the rocky ridge, initially unpleasant boulder terrain, up to the summit.
The descent takes place on the same route back.
Mitterkarjoch
Wildspitze
Public transport
By train from Innsbruck to Landeck to the Ötztal station. Then change to the buses of the Tyrolean Transport Association (https://www.vvt.at/page.cfm?vpath=index).
First take bus line 320 to Zwieselstein. There change to bus line 330 to Vent.
Directions
From the Inntal highway, exit Haiming/Ötztal, follow the Ötztal federal road 186 until shortly before the village entrance of Zwieselstein. There turn right over the Venter Landesstrasse to the village entrance of Vent. There is a designated, fee-based parking lot.
Parking
Designated parking at the entrance to the village. Further parking options at the base station of the chairlift.
All parking options are subject to charges.
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Rother Eastern Alps High Alpine Tour Guide (6th edition 2015)
various websites
Author’s map recommendations
AV map 1:25000, sheet 30/6 Ötztal Alps - Wildspitze
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
Normal high alpine tour equipment sufficient (tour backpack, crampon-compatible mountaineering boots, tour clothing, rainwear, gloves, headlamp, water bottle, sun protection, bivy sack, first aid kit, hip harness, rockfall helmet, 1 ball-lock safety carabiner, 2 HMS carabiners, 2 snap carabiners, 2 quickdraws, crampons with front points, 1 ice screw (precautionary), ice axe, a long and a short prusik sling, 2 slings.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions