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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Stubai Alps

Wilden Hinterbergl (3288 m) via Berglas crossing and north face

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Alpenverein Hall in Tirol Verified partner 
  • From the Franz-Senn-Hütte we follow the easy route No. 13 along the Alpeiner Bach. The ideal departure time for this route is about half an hour before sunrise.
    From the Franz-Senn-Hütte we follow the easy route No. 13 along the Alpeiner Bach. The ideal departure time for this route is about half an hour before sunrise.
    Photo: Michael Larcher, Alpenverein Hall in Tirol

Selected alternatives for you
    Great and varied high alpine route for advanced climbers in the Franz-Senn-Hütte tour area.
    moderate
    Distance 14.3 km
    8:00 h
    1,180 m
    1,180 m
    3,288 m
    2,147 m
    Along the Alpeiner Bach to the end of the valley and then west into the Berglastal. Over the Berglas crossing to the Lisenser Ferner and from there to the foot of the north face of the Wilden Hinterbergl. Up the north face to the summit. Descent via the heavily crevassed and (in summer) rarely traveled Berglasferner.

    Author’s recommendation

    The descent from the Wilden Hinterbergl is easier if you take the path via the less complex Turmferner and then continue descending via the well-marked trail to the Aperer Turm.
    Difficulty
    45° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Risk potential
    Highest point
    3,288 m
    Lowest point
    2,147 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
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    Nov
    Dec
    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    trad gear
    Protection
    trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 50 m

    Track types

    Show elevation profile

    Tips and suggestions

    Description, photos, and GPS track of this route were created during training to become a state-certified instructor for high alpine tours.

    Roadbook

    (1) From the Franz-Senn-Hütte, follow path no. 131 along the Alpeinerbach. The approximately 2.3 km long path through the glacier-formed high valley is easy and runs, except for the short terrain step - the "Höllenrachen" - very flat towards the valley end. Where the path branches, follow the right trail marked "old" on a rock. This trail leads us in some switchbacks without difficulty up to the striking lateral moraine of the Alpeiner Ferner (a remnant of the glacier's state in 1850).

    (2) Where we first reach the ridge of the lateral moraine (about 2400 m), we leave the "old" path that continues over the moraine ridge to the right. We now follow the noticeably narrower and more sparsely marked trail north towards the Berglastal. We reach a remote high valley and the foothills of the orographically right moraine of the Berglasferner. This moraine ridge is where the trail runs, leading to the Berglasferner from which we will descend. Our trail to the Berglas crossing branches right here and leads us to the northern lateral moraine of the Berglasferner and further up over its ridge.

    (3) The trail ends at 2660 m where the lateral moraine meets the steep slope dropping from the cirque floor below the Berglas crossing. Without a path, go up this slope about 100 vertical meters to the flat cirque floor, then turn right towards the stream of the Berglastal. The snow or ice tongue of the Berglas crossing is clearly visible. We reach its lower end by climbing blocks on the right of the watercourse out of the cirque hollow and only shortly below the ice field switch back to the left. Here, right at the edge of the narrow glacier tongue, you can put on harness, helmet, and crampons. The Berglas crossing itself is a glacier slope up to 35° steep, leading after about 100 vertical meters onto the Lisenser Ferner. Experienced ice climbers will ascend without a rope; for beginners or less experienced climbers, a rope safety may be advisable depending on current conditions.

    (4) After the Berglas crossing, we reach the Lisenser Ferner at around 3000 m. We now head directly towards the clearly visible north face of the Wilden Hinterbergl and climb as far as possible in glacier rope teams over the foot of the north face to the bergschrund. The area just below the bergschrund is generally ideal to switch into climbing rope teams and put on crampons (if taken off after the Berglas crossing). The north face of the Wilden Hinterbergl reaches about 50° at its steepest point, extends approximately 100 vertical meters (3 rope lengths). The ideal line for the ascent is approximately in the middle of the face also to minimize risk of rockfall. The face leads to the flat and extensive glacier ridge over which we easily and within a few minutes reach the main summit.

    (5) On the descent via the Berglasferner, first head towards the Turmscharte (3126 m). About 200 m before the notch, turn left into the now somewhat steeper part of the Berglasferner. Current conditions on the Berglasferner determine the correct path - in our case this was the far right area (in terms of descent). Lots of slush snow allowed relatively easy and quick progress in glacier rope teams here. Only in the lower section was the glacier bare, requiring detours around crevasses. At the glacier end, continue without a path over scree and block terrain. Always keep to the clearly visible moraine ridge where cairns mark the start of a small trail leading down the said moraine ridge to the previously known ascent path. Follow this back to the Franz-Senn-Hütte.

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    Franz-Senn-Hütte
    Franz Senn Hut

    Directions

    Take the A13 Brenner Motorway to the Schönberg exit. Continue to Neustift im Stubaital. In the district of Milders, take the narrow mountain road into the Oberbergtal to the Oberisshütte (1745 m).

     

    Parking

    Spacious, fenced, and paid parking lot at the Oberisshütte. The valley station of the material cable car is located directly at the parking lot.

    Coordinates

    DD
    47.085096, 11.168517
    DMS
    47°05'06.3"N 11°10'06.7"E
    UTM
    32T 664598 5216902
    w3w 
    ///feminism.preferably.flux
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Author’s map recommendations

    Alpenverein map no. 31/1 Stubai Alps, Hochstubai, 1:25000

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    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    45° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    14.3 km
    Duration
    8:00 h
    Ascent
    1,180 m
    Descent
    1,180 m
    Highest point
    3,288 m
    Lowest point
    2,147 m
    Round trip

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

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