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Alpine Tour
· Ötztal
VerticalExtreme.de route tip - Wildspitze - Southeast Ridge
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Wildspitze southeast ridge - Ladder to heaven in the Ötztaler AlpsVideo: VerticalExtreme VerticalExtreme
Southeast Ridge (AD, III) - Ladder to Heaven in the Ötztal Alps
Calm and at the same time very interesting route to the sought-after summit. A great alternative to avoid the crowds on the other routes.
The requirement is confident free climbing up to grade 2. The short key sections (up to III-) can be well protected.
More information and a short video of the Wildspitze southeast ridge ascent are available on our blog:
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
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Detailed information at:
Roadbook
From the hut follow the path to the Ötztaler Urkund - first on a path, then pathless. From the ridge nice climbing meters. Always stay directly on the ridge. Key section just below the Ötztaler Urkund, it is bolted - grippy climbing moves in the III- range. Continue over a flat firn field to the Wildspitze southeast ridge. Ascent in fall line over firn, about 40 degrees. The transition from firn to ice can be unpleasant. Dirty slabs, no protection possibility.
Short traverse to the left to the ridge that appears steep from this view. Do not follow the tempting line of the chimney straight ahead - very loose! The ridge is mostly solid and grippy. The ridge gradually recedes on the way to the summit.
Descent either via the normal route or via the northeast ridge - the nicer route. Confident walking in terrain up to 40 degrees steep is mandatory.
Public transport
Starting point is Vent in the Ötztal Valley.Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
1x 30m climbing rope (e.g. Edelrid Swift Pro Dry), 4 x quickdraw sets, 2 x medium size friends (e.g. Black Diamond Camalot C4), ice axe, crampons, 4 x slings, belay device (e.g. Petzl Reverso)Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions