Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Attention!
At the beginning of the upper glacier basin danger of icefall from the spur to Pointe du Mountet.
In case of bare ice, one will probably have to work with ice screws (fixed points and belay stations) from the firn shoulder on the north ridge of the Trifthorn up to where the terrain below the Col du Mountet slopes back.
Tips and suggestions
The route was done in July 2020!Roadbook
From the Mountet hut, follow the path to the lateral moraine of the Glacier du Mountet. Now follow the trail marks along the moraine (towards the northeast) up to about 3100m at a flattening. Here you leave the path and cross at the same height into the moraine towards a gully. You cross this and the subsequent scree slope (interspersed with patches of firn), then ascend slightly until you reach the glacier edge at about 3200 m. This is also an ideal spot to rope up.
The glacier here forms a kind of horizontal ramp which you follow staying at the same height. After about 300 m in a straight line, descend briefly and then cross another ice ramp around a small icefall into a small glacier basin. In the glacier basin, go to its easternmost corner, then ascend to the right (bypassing some large crevasses) to a kind of ridge, following it up to just below the spur that extends eastwards to Pointe du Mountet.
Here begins the upper glacier basin, which you cross in a southeastern direction and finally ascend steeply onto a kind of firn shoulder on the north ridge of the Trifthorn. Briefly steeply up the firn on the north ridge, and where it starts to split, traverse left across the firn slope to the Col du Mountet (exposed, initially about 40 degrees steep, but then flattening more towards the col). From the col over the northeast ridge, initially firn, later easy rock climbing (up to grade II) to the summit.
The descent was made via the same route.
Trifthorn
Cabane du Grand Mountet
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Equipment
Normal high alpine tour equipment sufficient (tour backpack, crampon-compatible mountain boots, tour clothing, rain gear, gloves, headlamp, water bottle, sun protection, bivouac sack, first aid kit, harness, rockfall helmet, 1 safety carabiner ball-lock, 2 HMS carabiners, 2-3 snap carabiners, 2 quickdraws, crampons with front points, 2 ice screws per person (precautionary), ice axe, one long and one short prusik sling, 2 sling loops).Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

User Questions