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Alpine Tour recommended route Alpine Tour  · Pennine Alps

Trifthorn 3729m

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  • Dent Blanche in the rising sun
    Dent Blanche in the rising sun
    Photo: Thomas Nippgen, Archiv Thomas Nippgen

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    moderate
    Distance 3.8 km
    3:30 h
    837 m
    0 m
    3,729 m
    2,886 m
    Difficulty
    PDII40° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Experience
    Landscape
    Highest point
    3,729 m
    Lowest point
    2,886 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
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    Cardinal direction
    NESW
    Belay stations
    trad gear
    Protection
    trad gear
    Rope length
    1 x 60 m
    Number of quickdraws
    3

    Track types

    Path 22.04%Unknown 77.95%
    Path
    839 m
    Unknown
    3 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    Attention!

    At the beginning of the upper glacier basin danger of icefall from the spur to Pointe du Mountet.

    In case of bare ice, one will probably have to work with ice screws (fixed points and belay stations) from the firn shoulder on the north ridge of the Trifthorn up to where the terrain below the Col du Mountet slopes back.

    Tips and suggestions

    The route was done in July 2020!

    Roadbook

    From the Mountet hut, follow the path to the lateral moraine of the Glacier du Mountet. Now follow the trail marks along the moraine (towards the northeast) up to about 3100m at a flattening. Here you leave the path and cross at the same height into the moraine towards a gully. You cross this and the subsequent scree slope (interspersed with patches of firn), then ascend slightly until you reach the glacier edge at about 3200 m. This is also an ideal spot to rope up.

    The glacier here forms a kind of horizontal ramp which you follow staying at the same height. After about 300 m in a straight line, descend briefly and then cross another ice ramp around a small icefall into a small glacier basin. In the glacier basin, go to its easternmost corner, then ascend to the right (bypassing some large crevasses) to a kind of ridge, following it up to just below the spur that extends eastwards to Pointe du Mountet.

    Here begins the upper glacier basin, which you cross in a southeastern direction and finally ascend steeply onto a kind of firn shoulder on the north ridge of the Trifthorn. Briefly steeply up the firn on the north ridge, and where it starts to split, traverse left across the firn slope to the Col du Mountet (exposed, initially about 40 degrees steep, but then flattening more towards the col). From the col over the northeast ridge, initially firn, later easy rock climbing (up to grade II) to the summit.

    The descent was made via the same route.

    Rest stop
    Tip
    Nearby
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    Waypoint
    Start point
    End point
    Low point
    High point
    Forecast
    Today {low} to {high} and {precipitation} of {precipitation_type}
    show {x} more
    Photo
    Video
    Le Mammouth
    Trifthorn
    Cabane du Grand Mountet

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'616'632E 1'100'959N
    DD
    46.059951, 7.653555
    DMS
    46°03'35.8"N 7°39'12.8"E
    UTM
    32T 395854 5101589
    w3w 
    ///fortified.firewall.reds
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!

    Book recommendation by the author

    Guidebook Valais Alps from Rother Publishing

    Author’s map recommendations

    National map of Switzerland - 1:25000  - Sheet 1327 Evolène

    Book recommendations for this region:

    Show more

    Equipment

    Normal high alpine tour equipment sufficient (tour backpack, crampon-compatible mountain boots, tour clothing, rain gear, gloves, headlamp, water bottle, sun protection, bivouac sack, first aid kit, harness, rockfall helmet, 1 safety carabiner ball-lock, 2 HMS carabiners, 2-3 snap carabiners, 2 quickdraws, crampons with front points, 2 ice screws per person (precautionary), ice axe, one long and one short prusik sling, 2 sling loops).

    Localization

    Parts of this content were machine translated from German.

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    Difficulty
    PDII40° moderate
    Overall difficulty
    moderate

    Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.

    Distance
    3.8 km
    Duration
    3:30 h
    Ascent
    837 m
    Highest point
    3,729 m
    Lowest point
    2,886 m
    Scenic Insider tip Summit route Linear route

    Weather at the starting point

    10-day forecast

    Statistics

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