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Setting out from the Plauener Hut toward Reichenspitze/Kuchelmoosferner; on the right is the Richterspitze with its north ridge (on the left)Photo: Florian K., Alpenverein Innsbruck
Hidden around the Plauener Hut lies a vast potential for rock climbing that has so far gone largely unnoticed by mountaineers and remains largely unexplored by climbers. The rock quality is outstanding thanks to the mostly solid granite gneiss, offering a granite climbing experience unlike anything found in western Austria outside the Zillertal Alps.
The north ridge of the Richterspitze offers the full package of a major, high-alpine tour while remaining manageable in scope—essentially a “pocket-sized” adventure: an alpine approach—requiring crampons depending on the amount of old snow—challenging climbing on cracks, dikes, and exposed ridge sections. An absolutely rewarding ridge tour in its pristine state with almost no traces of previous ascents; thankfully, there’s a fixed sling only at the difficult crux (and a few remnants of pitons in the second half).
The second half of the ridge is significantly easier. So don’t be discouraged if you spend a little extra time in the area of the crux and the subsequent sections.
The descent follows either the standard route to the Richterhütte, as described here, or to the Plauener Hütte.
The two most difficult sections can be bypassed on the right/west-facing flank, as described (in surprising detail) in the AV guidebook. This has been confirmed to me by other climbers. The traverses aren’t particularly crumbly and are certainly manageable. In that case, the climbing difficulty of the ridge does not exceed grade 3.
From the Richter Hut (early in the season with snow up to the saddle), the Reichenspitze (Grade 3, bolted) or the Gabler (somewhat scree-covered, 2–3) via the southeast face and return to the Plauener Hut; alternatively, the latter can be approached from the north via the Roßkarscharte along the standard route over the Glatze, with a descent into the Wildgerlostal—which makes for an original traverse.
With the Spaten South Ridge, the Wildgerlosspitze South Ridge, or the Reichenspitze South Ridge, the beautifully situated Plauener Hut offers further destinations for a fulfilling, high-alpine climbing weekend.
Author’s recommendation
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Tips and suggestions
Description in the 2013 Zillertal AV GuideRoadbook
Start at the
. At the trail fork, follow the trail toward Gamsscharte/Richterhütte. Just before a rocky ridge at just under 2,700 m, leave this trail and turn left toward the saddle between the Richter and Zillerspitze. In the cirque, choose the most passable route depending on snow conditions (the further you veer left above 2,800 m, the flatter the terrain becomes). Over the final 30 hm, you’ll encounter moderately sloped, fairly continuous slab terrain (in late summer, this section is longer and, depending on what the snow reveals, may also be more difficult). About halfway up, there is a crack that you follow diagonally to the right (up to III). After the first ascent, we traversed to the right and from there reached the saddle via a somewhat textured, not always solid rock ascent (2 h).
North Ridge
After just a few meters, the ridge quickly becomes quite exposed (up to grade 3) and soon leads to a prominent, wide tower, which you climb around by edging slightly to the right at its base (III) to reach a slabby ledge (good footholds in cracks and on a passable boulder) below the crux pitch, a prominent crack dihedral. The pitch begins with an alternation of short upclimbs and flat, crack-filled slabs that are otherwise rather smooth. The crack dihedral itself is steep and demanding for its difficulty rating (IV+); the walls are smooth, and it’s best to wedge your feet in the crack (good belay options with Friends; a red, highly visible fixed sling is located exactly in the right spot; an old piton on the left wall before the intersection next to a quartz formation).
The route continues along the partly narrow, exposed ridge (up to 3) before reaching a small tower with a sloping crack intersection. Even though this section is short, we found it technically challenging (4-?). It can be closely protected with Friends (or climbed technically); there’s a good standing position at the start of the crack. After that, the ridge remains exposed, tends to become somewhat more boulder-like (up to 3; protection provided partly by the rope route alone, allowing for faster progress), and you reach a wide, slabby saddle.
From there, the steeper ridge becomes slightly wider and less exposed (2–3), and there are now a few short walking sections. At the start, either follow the deep notch between two upright slabs/spikes or bypass it to the right on easier terrain in rock that isn’t entirely solid. Even as you approach the summit, you’ll spot a steep, broad tower. An almost horizontal, fairly solid rock ridge leads to it, offering some nice climbing (3-). After a few meters, you climb around the tower itself on a slightly sloping ledge to the left, around the corner, and then return to the ridge along the flank after a short while (max. 3). The cross is now visible, and the climb continues somewhat more easily over gentle ups and downs to the summit (1.5–2.5 hours; longer if securing only at belay stations).
Descent
Follow the faint, intermittently marked standard trail to Gamsscharte (sections 1–2, short via ferrata passage at the end B/C) and down the hiking trail to the Richterhütte (1:30). Alternatively, return via the via ferrata to the Plauener Hütte (B/C).
Rainbachköpfl 2.690 m
Richterspitze
Gamsscharte (Unterstand)
Richterhütte
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Best public transportation route: Take the Zillertalbahn from Jenbach in the Inn Valley to Mayrhofen (every half hour) and continue by bus to Zillergrund, getting off at the last stop at the dam (every half hour; hourly during the off-season; lunch break). It’s a 1.5-hour walk to the Plauener Hütte.Directions
Drive through the Zillertal Valley until just before Mayerhofen; there, at a roundabout, turn left toward Brandberg/Zillergrund, passing through a tunnel to the start of the toll road into the Zillergrund. Continue to the Bärenbad parking lot, where the public road ends. From there, either take the bus or hike an additional 450 hm to the crest of the dam.Parking
At the (closed) Bärenbad inn, in front of the gate.Coordinates
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
- > 30 m single rope
- Slings
- 3–4 Friends (sizes 0.5–2; smaller sizes also work well)
- Crampons (and ice axe); snowfields are likely in the cirque until well into midsummer
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
User Questions